Time for new pads and rotors — but all around?

I’m down to about 15% in the front. I’ve been waiting out my pads to reach this level, intending to replace the rotors and pads with Stoptech cryo slotted rotors and EBC yellow stuff pads.

It’s OEM all around right now but I’m only down to 50% in the rear.

Is it better / safer / whatever to replace front and rear at the same time so it’s all the same brand or does it matter? 50% is a lot of life to go. I’ve never run anything but OEM brakes on my cars.

Truck is at about 67k miles.

 

There are plenty of brake threads. Ina nutshell, ALL name brand pads are about the same. Rotors are all made of the same iron by only a few main manuf for everyone to stamp their name on it. Don't get caught up in cryo, slotted, drilled, etc. Do OEM rotors or any big name manuf. Pads, the same. Hawk, EBC, etc. In the end, all those fancy rotors or pads will gain you little to nothing in braking. I just did OEM with Hawk pads. Also change out your fluid. Most people don't even change it when it's another important factor in braking performance.

 

I am in the same boat, same mileage too and about 3mm left on the front. I ran Stoptech on my previous cars but this time I think I will just go OEM. The local dealer usually has some deals on parts.
At what mileage are you all changing brake fluid?

 

Exactly my thoughts ... unless you can increase the braking surface, i.e. bigger rotor diameter, or add more caliper pistons, etc. you're pretty much stuck with your present setup and performance. First modified Tundra, we're on number three at present, we "drank the proverbial kool aid" and went with the hot setup at the time and gained basically little to no noticeable improvement, except harder to clean rim's and a lighter wallet. Unless you're dragging heavy loads around on a regular basis I wouldn't be overly concerned. Do your research, be nice to see some real numbers instead of hype and meaningless claims.
I'd do the front axle first along with the fluid if funds are tight.
Best

 

Fronts do 75% of your braking. Replace the fronts and service the rears. If anything you might need pads back there but not likely. I replaced my front rotors with NAPA premium rotors and Bosch pads at 130,000km. Rears were fine, just cleaned and lubed (serviced).

 

You can take it to a shop and they can check water content with a sample of your brake fluid. At Lexus dealer I go to, they replace about every 2yrs, it’s fairly cheap to do from what I remember. Usually they can just see that it’s discoloured. Lots of city driving will have you replacing it more often than highway driving obvi.

 

No need to go to a shop. Stop by NAPA and you can buy brake fluid test strips for cheap.

 

I went with OEM and I did it all around rather than waiting for the rear ones to catch up. They had a breaks special so it was worth it. Just do the math....

 

I would suggest doing both, but if you need to wait on the rears no problem. I suggest CRYO treated rotors and a good set of pads. Akebono performance pads work really well on our trucks, better than stock and no dust.

 

@Shadowfax1 I run the StopTech Sport Cryo treated, slotted only front and rear on mine. No issues at all. I had vibrations from OEM rotors.

 

I got Centric (Brembo) blank rotors and Hawk LTS pads. With how long these things last I figure just do it all at once.

 

I'd suggest sticking with OEM rotors and pads. I have tried many brands over the years and none of them last as long as OEM. Also, unless your current rotors are warped, why change them out? I'd just change the front pads. If the back pads still have 50% life, I'd run them a while longer as well. They will last 4 times as long as your fronts do since your front brakes do most of the stopping.

 

If you don't change the rotors then you would have to machine them before the new pads are installed. Some would rather just change out the rotors.

 

I negotiated a good discount and changed everything front and back, pads and rotors. First set lasted my for like 95K. I don't trailer so perhaps the length.

 

I know that is what they "suggest", but if the rotors are not warped, there really is no need to machine them. I have changed pads many times through the years and not replaced or machined rotors and have had absolutely no issues with pad life. It's just simply not necessary if the rotors are not warped and you didn't let your pads wear down to the point where the backing plate on the pads were digging into the rotors.

 

Rotors and pads wear together. The lands and grooves match each other as they wear. When you replace just the pads, they are perfectly flat but your used rotor aren't. The result can be noise, reduce braking performance and reduced pad life. You wouldn't replace a clutch disc with an old pressure plate and without machining the flywheel. Same principle.

 

Every two years.

 

You can just replace the ones that need replacing. There is no reason to replace all four.

 

I know what they suggest and I'm sure that there is some truth to it, but generally I have never had an issue with it and I personally don't think the gain is worth the extra cost unless the rotors are warped. Just my opinion.

 

$13 ITEQ Brake Fluid Liquid Tester Pen with 5 LED Indicators, Calibrated For DOT3 DOT4 Brake Fluid

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076SC377J?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Brake fluid tester.

 

Do as you do but that doesn't make it proper.

 

this.

pads and rotors.

safety first.

 

I'd be willing to bet that if you compared both processes, the "proper" one vs what I suggest, you would not see much if any differences between the two as far as pad life and braking performance. All I know is that it has worked for me and I have always gotten 80,000 to 100,000 miles out of the new set of OEM pads by doing it this way.

 

You would be wrong. Your braking distances will be longer in an emergency braking situation. The extra five feet could possibly save a life. It really does come down to simple physics.

 

I disagree, but respect your opinion.

 

Where can I find these rotors?? Thanks!

 

Mine came from AutoAnything but they got bought out. Tire Rack and Summitt carry the StopTech brand.