General Supercharger Thread

I will add my experiences to the mix here with flashing my 2021 and ran into issues. Not with HP Tuners but with VF Tuner. YotaWorx was working with me on this, so they helped me through it (Highly recommend) I had already installed the 2650 and was running the base tune that magnuson provided. When I went to flash the new YotaWerx tune the flash stopped in the middle of writing the ECU because of too low voltage. At least with my truck we found even after making sure the intercooler pump was not running, the load the fuel pump puts on the system is too great with a battery charger and the jump pack i was trying to use. In the end i was able to start over and hook directly to my wifes QX80 with jumper cables running mind you to keep voltage high enough not to error out using VF Tuner. Had to start the process over 2 different times, lucky for me the truck would start up even after the program errored out during writing.

TL DR version:

Hook your truck directly to running vehicle of similar size to avoid voltage drop and ECU bricking before attempting to write to the ECU.

Don't listen to me, I'm an ID-ten-T.

 

So I guess for newer trucks it’s not possible to add the resistor and put the ecu into a tunable state. I just got done talking with Matt at OVtuning and he said that was only for the older models. He said I could buy their flash kit and it would recover the ecu but that’s another $400 for a tuning software I won’t be using. Although if it works I guess it’d be worth to have around in case this happens again, which seems it has to some.

 

The fuel pump should just come on for a sec, to prime the line, then shut off. Either way, I have a charger set that I set to 10amp. I wonder if writing over another manuf tuning software has something to do with it also. This was why I choose to just do a custom tune from the start. I didnt do the Magnuson tune.

 

You'd think that but the weird state the ECU was in with all the dash lights on i could def hear the fuel pump buzzing the whole time, at least during the flash procedure under VF Tuner.

 

Question is, is the flash kit 110% sure to recover the ECU? If it is then thats part of the aftermarket HP/TQ game. Win some lose some.

 

Back in 2015 or so when Bullydog came out I bricked my ecu. They had me overnight it to them and back to me. To my surprise they covered the charge each way.
I suspect they did the resistor bench flash. Even though my battery was fully charged and on charger I needed a bigger amperage charger.
Ensure all accessories are off! I wired a switch to shut off my fuel pump, intercooler, water/meth pump and after market gages.
No obd Bluetooth plugs that are piggybacking.
It is rare to happen but with more people tuning it does happen even on GM's and others.

 

Your probably right. My dash was lighting up like a Christmas tree when it was writing the tune. I guess you could also pull the relay/fuse for the fuel pump also.

 

Is your fuel pump hot wired to battery? Usually only comes on while starting.

 

Usually only 4lo flashes to indicate erasing/writing. Could be different for later model years...

 

No, I followed the magnuson included instructions to a T.

 

My 4LO and 4HI now flash the entire time because of the ecu being bricked

 

Also for what it's worth, i flashed the latest toyota firmware and then the magnuson tune to the ECU using the exact same procedure before installing any of the supercharger stuff and the process went completely fine each time, with only a simple trickle charger on the battery.

 

They said it will recover the ecu even if I am using HpTuners

 

My truck has been tuned and flashed from the very beginning using the beta software no problems. No idea why DAP had me use the beta but that’s what I was told to use. Turning everything off and running a battery charger at 15 amps has been good to me so far but I cringe every time I have to flash a new file.

 

MAF Sensor Update, boxed and labeled and on the shipping dock. All back orders will be filled today! You'll get tracking emails once FEDEX scans them in. Thanks again for all the patience!

 

In the last 3 months I must have written my ECU over 20 times getting the shifting/ PE dialed in with the larger throttle body. Even just doing it on the side of the road tweaking stuff. It's a pain if it happens...

 

I've been debating doing the 46 gallons tank when swapping out the fuel pump, has anyone got the giant tank with supercharged truck?

 

rey, can you stop posting, like, everytime you post I ended up buying something.

 

lmao-Disclaimer please note I’m not responsible for potential issues with significant others in the form of purchases or photos taken from the kitchen.

 

The one I got was '12-'14, I have a '13. It reports as a '12.

The PN the seller gave said it was for a 12-14 Sequoia with all the same options (oddly 2 & 4wd) It took a bit of fiddling but is working great & my ethanol issue seems to be gone. (I'll know for sure after I fil up)

 

Didn't work on mine. Tried a bunch of times, and Mat even sent me a special recovery file and it didnt take.

 

Speaking of buying, I just installed the filter I got from you Rey. I have been meaning to ask, is it normal to have "steam" coming from the filter on the catch can I bought from you? When it is hot out it's steamy.

 

Yeah I’m realizing that after talking with a few tuners that I’m just better off getting a new ecu

 

My 2020, the dash info center kept cycling through abs malfunction, cruise malfunction, radar malfunction, all sorts of malfunctions. All the dash lights where also on.

 

Back in the day I would up load files without a care in the world. HPT, EFI Live, Handheld, etc never crossed my mind of bricking the ECU.

 

Same on my 19.

 

On the Tree with '18 dash I have all the lights flashing the tach & speedo scroll & I get high transmission temp.

 

Normal since this vents to the atmosphere

 

Thanks all for the feedback. I’m new to this and to be honest I am learning as I go which has proven to be expensive on more than one occasion.

One thing i noticed concerning horse power is it’s never enough horse power. I have seen on YouTube and from web surfing many different builds and horse power numbers. I haven’t really dug into the weeds with re-gearing but I have been told that it’s almost a must to re-gear. My truck is not lifted and the drive train is stock plus I have ladder bars which help to mitigate axle wrap with the added horse power. My biggest con is the speed limiter or governor that ends a real fun when it starts. I top out at 110 mph if I’m not mistaken. No matter how much power you’re making the premature cutoff puts a damper on the fun. I saw a video of someone who was making roughly ( if I’m not mistaken) 600hp ish at the wheels with re-gearing and a tune so I reached out to ( DEVOLRO Custom Truck Studio / ATV Motorsports ) inquire about his tweaking of the engine since he has what looks to me to be the same S/C and set up.

Like many of you have mention the internals of the engine can only handle so much If left stock and I am not sure that I want to do anything else until I figure out how to overcome the limiter. I read about the abs fuse removal that will disable the limiter / governor but I have not personally vetted that out.

There’s also one comment on here that said something to the effect that s/c the tundra isn’t worth it and doesn’t feel that way until you give it some gas but the fun definitely ends at 97 in a 60 ticket ( OR 110mph or whichever comes first.) to which I have HEARD is possible as heck because of the smooth acceleration and the fine to boot. Still you can get a speeding ticket in a prius on a sunny day so the vehicle isn’t really relevant.

Still I am having a blast when I am in my truck and learning about so much. Im nearing 35K miles on this truck of which only half of that is from date of purchase. Once I get this boost gauge (banks I-dash data monster) pressure figured out I will be a little more certain as to what my actual boost pressure numbers are and can give true feedback for those inquiring. My original tune/ dyno is now superseded by a new tune/ dyno. One thing is that the whine on the Magnusson 2650 is not as pronounced as say some others I have heard.

Thanks for answering my questions. I appreciate the feedback. I was trying to figure out how far this rabbit-hole goes. Because in all honesty there are other options like the Shelby F150 , TRX etc. that are really fast with a higher limiter I suppose.

It is a blessing to be here and be enlightened by you all.