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Simple oil change question

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by wildduk, Apr 24, 2024.

  1. Apr 26, 2024 at 9:50 AM
    #31
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

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    Left hand flutes are the extractors on the right-hand side of the package.
    Right hand drill bits are in the left-hand side of the package.

    upload_2024-4-26_12-50-18.png
     
  2. Apr 26, 2024 at 10:38 AM
    #32
    Teutonics

    Teutonics BestGen Member

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    It appears the "left hand flutes – grip the metal firmly" is in reference to the extractors, not the drill bits. :-/
     
  3. Apr 26, 2024 at 10:42 AM
    #33
    Teutonics

    Teutonics BestGen Member

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    If you were drilling in reverse with a right hand drill bit, that's why you were having such a tough time of it.

    And on separate note, if you apply pressure to a drill with a floor jack something is going to break (drill bit, drill, or ???).
     
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  4. Apr 26, 2024 at 11:56 AM
    #34
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

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    And wear out your drill bit fast as hell. And it'll be difficult as shit to keep the drill straight.
     
  5. Apr 26, 2024 at 4:23 PM
    #35
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Working remotely from the local pub

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    They make drill guide kits. Ones for bolt heads and ones for recessed screws. You can make your own if you have a professional drill press.
     
  6. Apr 27, 2024 at 3:31 AM
    #36
    FishNinja

    FishNinja HIDE YOUR DAUGHTERS

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    TEXAN....big surprise
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    No skid is best, oil change takes zero effort, also the middle bolt on the rack is accessible from the front now.IMG_4480.jpg
     
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  7. Apr 28, 2024 at 10:37 AM
    #37
    whodatschrome

    whodatschrome New Member

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    lots of dents
    Without the factory slash (skid) plate installed, it does leave the radiator more susceptible to damage from debris. For instance my BOL left the splash plate off of his truck (which was the wrecked 2000 truck that i bought from him) after an oil change. His daughter went off the road and crashed the truck. A stick jammed stabbed directly through the radiator. My tundra spends most of the time offroad and in 4wd in the woods. There has been multiple instances where the radiator would have been punctured with random tree limbs if i didn’t have that splash plate installed. Of course that isn’t an issue for most people though. But maybe random road debris could be? I also wonder how much the splash plate helps out with fuel economy at highway speeds? Probably not very much at all, but it would help direct air flow.
     
  8. Apr 28, 2024 at 1:06 PM
    #38
    MT-Tundra

    MT-Tundra Agnostic Gnostic

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    I imagine it does help. I even have some rubber air deflectors that bolt onto the sides of the skid plate for additional aerodynamics. Wonder how many people immediately ditched those...

    The bottom of the radiator is absolutely more vulnerable with the skid plate off. My preference would always be to leave it on. I also spend a lot of time on dirt roads. But once I hit the point where there were only two bolts left holding it on, and at that time I couldn't figure out how to work a bolt extractor kit, leaving it off was the best option.
     
  9. Oct 14, 2024 at 1:08 PM
    #39
    ps8820

    ps8820 New Member

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    Late to the party.
    Havent yet done this, but considering doing the skid plate removal myself at home ONLY when taking it to the local stealership for oil changes. Skid plate removal is a relatively clean procedure and Id rather be the one to strip a bolt/thread [were it to happen] than a marginally paid 'mechanic' w/ a happy trigger finger on a power tool.
    When I remove any fasteners, anywhere, I always load the joint w/PBBlaster [or other penetrant] for 5-10 mins before putting a socket on it, then tap or bang it few times w/a ballpeen. Then w/socket, 1st give it a slight clockwise pull as if tightening, then a few more taps or squirts. No need to apply hi-torque, as its just enuf to break any corrosion lock, then slowly apply removal torque. 80% good results, but not always..anyways, if nuts/bolts are going to strip- I'd rather be the responsible party.
    I've also considered putting in stainless bolts but even if not, ALWAYS use the Permatex 'copper colored' antiseize.

    As far as oil filter changes, i prefer 'stealership' make [and cleanup] any spillage, or if there's a leak, I hand it back to them before i leave-
    for the labor cost, its just not worth my time to assemble my makeshift dr/way shop and have to drive old oil to a local parts shop for disposal...
    but the skid plate should be easy, if not fighting a seized or stripped fastener.
    Also, I dont go to stealerships unless I have one of their 10 or 15% off deals [look on website, otherwise you wouldnt know about] AND know ahead of time that its a 'Stealership' that listens to customer...EG:
    I always tell them: "Please, I'm only here for this single service; do not perform anything else..no 100 pt inspection, no other fluid chks, no tire rotations, Nothing...thank you." [Even 'pretty please w/sugar' like 'Winston Wolf']...
    And the better Toyota houses WILL pay attention and we're all happier when its done.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2024
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