2002 tundra v6 high idle

I first want thank everyone for all the knowledge and insight I've gained from the forum in the last week. The engine is idling around 1600 at start and continues when driving. I've cleaned mas, iac ,and throttle body. Replaced O2 s1 B2 with denso sensor from rockauto. Replaced pcv valve,air filter ,spark plugs, per owner's manual. Truck has 250,000 miles. Thank all of you for the information on how to do all of those repairs. Here is a screenshot off of tech stream if it helps any. Thank you all so much for your time this is a great community and I appreciate being a part of it.

 

Disconnect the negative terminal, find something else to do for ~10 mins, then reconnect. The ECU will re-learn, and your idle will drop to ~ 800 RPM after a number of drive cycles.

 

@w666 how long is considered a drive cycle?
I tried disconnecting the negative terminal.

 

For a full 10+ minutes?

Drive cycle would be a good 30-50 minutes of mixed driving (hwy, city) for many vehicles.

 

Mine did this at one point. I have the 3.4L v6 as well. It ended up just fixing itself after maybe 10 miles of driving or so. I think mine would even get up to 2k RPM when this was happening.

Did you perform any type of maintenance or anything before this happened or it randomly just started idling high?

 

@meeseeks55 I just cleaned the throttle body ,maf, iac valve, and replaced the s1 B2 O2 sensor. It has been idling high before which led me to try and clean everything up.

 

Put some miles on it today in 3 separate trips. No luck yet I'll keep trying thanks for the help. I'll keep ya posted. Anyone know how to interpret the data I posted, I'm still figuring it out.

 

Check for vacuum leaks. Spray starting fluid along any questionable looking vacuum lines. If the idle jumps after spraying a spot, you've found a vacuum leak.

May be worth just replacing all the vacuum lines anyway if they look old and crusty. Most can be replaced with 4, 6, & 8 mm silicone lines (I bought 10ft of each to do my '03 Tacoma and had plenty to spare). A few are hard-formed lines to hold up to stronger vacuum pressure and will need to be replaced with OEM or equivalent parts.

 

This ^^ is the next-right-answer!

The 1st gens are fucking notorious for having the ends of the vacuum hoses crack/split/loosen/fall off. To the point a lot of guys on here at the age these trucks are will cut the last ½" of all the hoses off, then zip-tie the little bastards back on.

Go through everywhere, both sides of the engine.

 

Sprayed all vac lines I could find no dice. I am definitely going to replace them all. So when all else fails I typically smack the crap out of stuff. Well I just tapped the tps a couple times and rpms go down like 300. So I get greedy give her one last smack and bust the tps sensor lol. What's OEM for tps sensor or equivalent. Also sway bar linkage broke on front passenger side. Any recommendations for that, also should I replace both linkages? Thanks for everyone's help.

 

I'd clean MAF with proper CRC MAF cleaner, and check for resistance across it per the FSM next. You could also test unplugging it while running to see if anything changes (though the result may not be conclusive)

For swaybar and in general, check this thread. There's not a lot of aftermarket parts for these trucks that last more than 2-5yrs. https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-parts-corner-of-shame-oem-minus-or-plus.122591/

 

Or do it right and actually replace them all

 

@shifty I cleaned the maf with the crc cleaner yesterday. I did unplug it today and the engine cutoff. And downloaded the fsm last night so I'll check readings on that tomorrow. Thanks for the help with the parts also.

 

@The Black Mamba That looks good she clean.

 

I'd suggest replacing the TPS with OEM Toyota only. Knockoffs will cause more harm than good