What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Twinsies! Mine looks exactly the same.

Let us know what works. (Actually, the Toyota tech who replaced my mid-shaft just undid the top bolt with an impact and left the coupler there untouched)

 

check your hard gas line. my gas line was leaking/weeping just enough to catch a scent. Trying to replace it - rust fused to the brake line. Changed them both. Power steering lines must be made of the same stuff as they gave up the ghost about the same time.

 

Finally got tires on the new wheels

 

Bought a rebuilt title 2005 v8 4x4 today for $6,500. It has 166,000 miles. Probably has plenty of gremlins, but no frame damage and the alignment shop said everything looked tight and they got it to drive straight. Seller bought it at auction and replaced the LCA and spindle on the side with damage. Has VSC, traction control lights that pop off and on constantly, will share codes soon. But the engine purrs and I will deal with the lights later. 4x4 engages at least and actually turns the front wheels. Second 2005 tundra, happy to have found a white one with 4x4 for now.

side note, can anyone link the best 1gen SABM instructions for me? I found it once before but my search button is broken today.

 

I've never seen an AC with VSC and traction control. What's SABM?

 

Hopefully it's just an abs sensor acting up. Looks good though! Is that interior black or dark gray?

 

Either you guys are punking me or my screwdriver isn't up to the task. I learned nothing from sticking it up to my ear. Instructions unclear.

 

What kind of handle?

 

Plastic. It's my longest one I own.

 

Flathead or Philips?
Maybe it was too long

 

Thanks. My gas line actually appears fine. It's got some black rubber coating on it that the brake lines do in some areas. The brake lines blew right at the bracket under the driver seat where there isn't any of that black coating (fuel line has it though). Local dealership is getting me pre-bent factory lines for those 2 under the seat. Waiting till they have them.

I just replaced my power steering lines too. Not fun.

 

You have to put the plastic end on your ear, not the metal side.

 

SABM is the air box mod where you cut another hole to draw in more air theoretically. I would skip it if I were you. No appreciable benefit in an unmodified engine. Maybe some benefit if supercharging.

 

Check ABS sensor and its wiring on the side that had the damage/LCA replacement. Pay close attention to where the sensor plugs in to the receptacle on the framerail. Look carefully at the connector itself, disconnect and check for pins, reconnect. Look carefully for damage at the two main places it's bolted (UCA, spindle). Before removing the sensor, check if it's installed squarely. If it looks to be installed properly (by comparing to the other side), I'd remove, clean, and inspect the sensor. I think it's a 10mm bolt to pop out the sensor; ensure it's clean and free of debris. It could just be that it's reading the tone ring wrong, or it could be there's debris and shit on the end of it. Or it could be they replaced it with something inferior aftermarket. Or it could be they had to replace other components, and pressed on the tone ring out of spec. But the fact it took a hit on the side, knowing VSC needs to track wheel rotation to know if a wheel is slipping, and (I believe) the ABS sensor is what would feed it that info ... @bmf4069 is totally on-point.

 

Oh don’t do that you’ll be pissed after 5 minutes haha.

 

Honestly im not really sure what to expect, but I have a feeling itll be more of a noticable difference than i expected and ill be wishing i bought aftermarket bumps sooner. But hard to justify $300 on pieces of rubber!

 

I replaced the driver side bottom seat foam. The outside edge of the seat foam had disintegrated so the seat switch buttons were no longer attached and the plastic covers over the seatback pivot point were broken. I used a NEW foam found on eBay since none of the local options were worth my time for a used seat.

This task was surprisingly easy for a first timer. The most frustrating part of the whole process was getting the wire harness disconnected from the seat switches... You can see the lighter color on the seat cover which is from excessive wear due to disintegrated foam. It's still in good shape for 277k miles of farts being fired into it


It is nice to have the switch functional again. I also tried my hand at holding the busted plastic together over the seatback pivot point with a genuine TOYOTA ZIP TIE. It came with a 70 Series Land Cruiser headlight and wiring kit I bought.


This new foam is definitely stiffer and has me sitting a couple of inches higher, but I know my back will appreciate not sitting off-kilter anymore! It will be interesting to see how this aftermarket foam wears in.

 

Wait - is that the used foam showing? Or the one you got off fleaBay?

I really oughta do the same.

 

That's the used foam. The eBay foam was bright white.

 

Well I opened my passenger door last night to find this.
Three days of rain and cowl clips again? I just replaced them a couple or few years ago. Seems crazy that they'd be bad again (is it one or two of the clips I can't remember?).

I think this time I may put some sealant around them when I install. I'll scoot on over to the leak thread and get all the details again.

 

Thats a nice lookin truck hawse. I really like that fender and fender flare option, i honestly wish my truck had them.
I can see your paint is starting to get chalky like all of ours with age, if you want to bring it back to life you can spend an afternoon and make it look new and have a deep shine again. If you care, get a cheap buffer from harbor freight or somewhere similar, and the fine pads i think they are white, and some Wizards Shine Master. This isnt a cutting polish for swirls or scratches, this is a polish, and it will shine like no other and make your paint look deep and shiny again. It lasts about a year and a half before it starts fading back to chalky look. The single stage white paint simply oxidizes and is fading away. This polish and sealer will help bring it back to new and seal it and lasts about a solid year before you will want to do it again (if you care to do it at all)

 

i have never bought a new seat cushion, i have typically swapped the drivers and passengers seat bases, yes this is double the work pulling both seats apart but when you do this, you get a fresh cushion in the drivers seat, and put the softer padded side from the drivers seat against the center console in the passengers side and nobody notices.

 

From the definitive leak thread: Specifically THESE TWO.

I recommend doing it the PHM way, but I'd pre-shoot the sealant into the screw hole the night before so you're getting a seal on that too. I'll drop a couple of my "old" spares in the box I'm shipping to you today so you can pre-seal it with sealant like that.

EDIT: Apparently, it's a "cup" where the screw goes into, so not the same design flaw as GM. Unless yours split, it's purely the seal around the fastener, so PHM's trick should work.

 

This was initially my plan for the seat foam. Once I got the driver side foam out I was shocked at how much foam fell out of the bottom. Nearly all of the material on the bottom side of the bolster had crumbled away; it wasn't just soft. I wasn't sure how my passenger princess would respond to the lack of support on the console side.

 

I assume you dont have running boards, or dont use the running boards? Sliding out of the seat is the #1 culprit for eating the side of the seat up (or thats what i have seen in my experience). Using the running boards to step into, and step up and out of the vehicle reduces the sliding on the side of the seat and will prolong the life of the seat pad.

 

That'd be good. I may not even get new ones to replace mine and just seal them up.

 

Made a hair of progress getting the rack off the yoke today, more heat tomorrow if it stops raining I guess.

Thought about cutting the shaft above the yoke and replacing everything rusty, but that appears to be a $500 dollar decision.
https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao...kcmEmeT0yMDA0JnQ9bGltaXRlZCZlPTQtN2wtdjgtZ2Fz

The heat is on!

 

NGL, I’m intimidated by the cowl work. Seems like something where experience would help a lot

 

You just pull the wipers off, the screws, and the clips and pull it off. Pop the screw holders out and replace.

 

And then it still leaks?