Fuel mileage

Hello all. This is my first post. Im sorry if this has already been discussed. I have about 1k miles on a 24 platinum non hybrid. I drove about 300 plus miles mainly with Cruise control set at 75-79 miles per hour. It was rainy and fairly windy outside so I’m sure that didn’t help. The mileage I got was 14.7 mpg. Anyone have a similar experience or is this normal. Does the engine need to be broken in? I come from getting about 22 mpg from a Silverado with a 5.3. I was hoping the Tundra would get similar mpg. Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

O man, another mpg thread ?



I am simply amazed at how much people care about this for a truck


But yes, it will get better as you break it in, off winter blend , less idling , etc

And no, the hybrid isn’t for mpg it’s for torque

your driving too fast to get good mpg anyways , slow to 65

and whatever you do, don’t lift add bigger tires , and come back again with mpg complaints , lol

o, and welcome to the forum and congrats on the new truck

 

What mode? Sport, Eco or Stock. All have different MAPs and result in different shifting and mpg experiences. I try to keep it around 75mph in Eco and get over 19mpg. Bump it to 80 plus and it drops to sub 18. Drop the speed to sub 70 and the mpg increases to 20 plus. Extreme - 55 mph and I get 24 mpg. I use eco always. Tow mode yields 16 mpg at 65 mph.

 

Thanks for the reply’s.i was in normal mode and switched to eco. I think I’ll need to go on another short road trip to experiment.

 

Rainy, windy, new truck, and cruising speeds outside the range of EPA testing for highway mileage? I’d say 14.5-15.0 MPG is about what to expect.

It’s been noted on here with the 3rd Gen Tundra that it takes around 10K miles for mileage to settle in. Let the ring and pinion gears in the axles fully wear in with each other and allow the gear surfaces to burnish to a smooth finish; same for the transfer case. Allow more time for the engine and transmission to wear in and smooth out.

If you’ve ever broken in a semiautomatic firearm, revolver, break action shotgun etc; especially one with tightly fitted parts you know it takes quite a bit of shooting to achieve than worn in (not worn out) feel of every part gliding in it’s motion. Once all the parts are “there” you’re pretty well set, and with attention to maintenance of your automobile or fine firearm everything will run smoothly and efficiently for a long time.

My unsolicited advice is to keep driving your new truck. Change the engine oil at 1K miles, then at 5K, and every 5K thereafter. At the 10K mark dump all the gear oil out of the front and rear axles, and transfer case. That way you drain out all the break in gear oil. Replace with the highest quality synthetic gear oil your wallet can tolerate, and see what your mileage looks like after that.

It should improve.

 

Did you reset the mpg calculator prior to your road trip? If not it will average based off what you did previously as well as the road trip. Manual calculations are the best way to get true mpg. Also radar cruise control can often times make you speed up and slow down more times then you really need to. Stay out of the boost, and only use eco when cruising on long straights.

 

“Stay out of boost and use eco”

ugh, what the hell is wrong with all you, ha

boost it, when it’s empty put more in

stay in sport + or tow+, that’s how it’s done

 

I keep reading this but haven't seen a reason. Why change oil so often and early? Isn't the first oil change due at 10k miles? And every Toyota I've owned that took synthetic has never called for an oil change at 5k miles. If Toyota wants our money which they clearly do, wouldn't they just say do it more often?

 

To @Breathing Borla ‘s point,

OP you bought a new truck with 82 more horsepower, and 200ft-lbs more torque than your old truck. Now some of this is from the electric motor and battery, but 34 HP and 96ft-lbs are gained by that boosted V6 vs your old 5.3L V8.

That extra power isn’t free. It comes from being able to cram more air in the engine and introduce more fuel to be combusted.

 

Thanks all. I did reset the miles when I started my trip. It is hard to not speed and use sport mode with my every day driving when you drive you want to have fun.

 

10K OCI’s are a compromise made by the manufacturer to show a lower cost of ownership while still maintaining acceptable levels of warranty claims.

Oil is cheap, engines are not. You do you.

If I’m maintaining a direct injected turbocharged engine that will experience more blow by from high cylinder pressures and more fuel dilution of the oil I am changing that oil more often.

Years ago I got to observe first hand on a regular basis what extended OCI’s did to engines while working for a BMW dealership. Sure the cars make it out of warranty with minimal engine issues. After that watch out.

 

I have a 2023 1794 Edition that is a non hybrid with 7700+ miles on it and on a trip back from Augusta Georgia to Midlothian Virginia I got 20.1mpg. I used the cruise and depending on the city/state I was driving through I set the cruise any where from 55 to 75mph. It was really windy on the East Coast yesterday, so much so that I could feel the truck move with the wind.

Truth be told I do better mpg than what your pictures shows in the city. I will say that the 3 Camrys I have owned didn’t really make s big jump up in mpg’s until 20k+ miles.

 

this is the way

 

^this

every 5k for me

Your pretty sharp for a gen 2 guy, haha

I can say that now we are friends again

 

LOL.

I’m the only Gen 2 guy here who doesn’t hate the Gen 3.

I’m just a filthy poor who doesn’t make $200K/year to be able to afford a well optioned Gen 3, AND send his son to private school, and dump 15% of his gross income into retirement investing, build up cash reserves, etc. A new truck eats into that disposable income, and I’m not mentally or emotionally prepared to deal with the ass pain of a large vehicle payment. Nor am I willing to part with $70K in cash to acquire a new vehicle.

# I’m a cheap bastard.

 

Well a man needs to drill down to his priorities.

To me time is worth more than nominal savings in gasoline. Personal enjoyment is worth something too.

So I select vehicles I like and enjoy, and drive at speeds that safely get me from A to B as fast as the law allows. I can make more money to buy gas, I can’t buy more time.

 

Along the lines of your last few posts, I think these top trim tundras are now in the price range 60-80k that if you’re concerned with 15 mpg vs 20 mpg , maybe the truck was too expensive in the first place

 

As a thought experiment if I drive my 2nd Gen at 85 MPH and get 13.5 MPG across South Dakota from Rapid City to Sioux Falls that is 346 miles. Takes 4 hours and 5 minutes of drive time give or take a few seconds. Burns 25.6 gallons so realistically a fuel stop will be needed with my 26.4 gallon tank.

The same trip at 75 MPH getting a whopping 15.5 MPG burns 22.3 gallons, so my fuel light still comes on and I still stop for gas. Drive time on the move is now 4 hours and 37 minutes.

Spending an extra $11.55 in gas (@$3.50/gallon) to cut 32 minutes off that soul crushing drudgery of a drive is 1000000000000% worth it.

Plus the speed limit is 80MPH so going 75MPH to save $11.55 makes you a douche bag that is a moving chicane holding up traffic. No thanks.

 

I got about 15 mpg city with 35’s

 

Wind can really hurt mpg I have found…
75-80 is 19-20mpg for me…22mpg is normally more like 65-70mph.

 

12k on my '23 and get between 17-20 on my 25 mile commute to work, typically driving as fast as the in front of me. 70-90mph. My wife works with me so we're always running late. Her fault, never mine.