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No crank, no start

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by skyllerstickfort, Mar 12, 2024.

  1. Mar 12, 2024 at 7:15 PM
    #1
    skyllerstickfort

    skyllerstickfort [OP] New Member

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    Hello all,

    My Tundra started having this problem last week. I drove a short distance and after shopping about 30 minutes, it wouldn’t start. Dash was all on, but no sound when I turn the key. After 10 minutes it started like normal and was normal for 3 days and then it happened again. It started off and on for a few days and now nothing. I’ve changed the starter, tested the starter relay and ignition switch. I still don’t have a solution to this. It also does not start in either P or N. I’m wondering if anyone has any other ideas for this.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Mar 13, 2024 at 4:18 AM
    #2
    D4x4TRD

    D4x4TRD New Member

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    Have you tested the battery? Bad battery causes weird issues
     
    2mchfun likes this.
  3. Mar 13, 2024 at 7:05 AM
    #3
    skyllerstickfort

    skyllerstickfort [OP] New Member

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    I haven't taken it in to be tested, but have tested the voltage myself a few times and it was always 12.5-12.7.
     
  4. Mar 13, 2024 at 7:41 AM
    #4
    Lifer

    Lifer New Member

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    My 2008, while perhaps not the same problem has done this to me twice. Are you able to put your truck in park and it actually goes into park? Meaning the truck won't roll. Mine would not and best I could tell it is a solenoid of some sort on trans. In my case truck knew it was in D and actually was and wouldn't do dick.
    Hot days both times. First time once it cooled down, everything was normal. Second time I beat on it, I missed one time cracking the plastic on the solenoid but it somehow freed it. I'm waiting for the next time.
    Research that a bit, if your truck doesn't believe its in N or P she won't do anything.
    Good luck
     
  5. Mar 13, 2024 at 7:47 AM
    #5
    2mchfun

    2mchfun Cool story, but did your new TTV6 tow a shuttle?

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    Does your truck have a telescopic steering column? Sometimes the wires go to crap from frequent movement. Also check the ground connections and the battery terminal connections. Lastly, your battery voltage is somewhat low, a good battery is going to show a little higher voltage and you really need to test amperage.
     
  6. Mar 13, 2024 at 9:11 AM
    #6
    skyllerstickfort

    skyllerstickfort [OP] New Member

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    The truck does stop in P and I've tried going back and forth between P and N several times. It does have the automatic steering column movement when you get in and out of the truck. That could be something to look at. I didn't think the battery was the issue, but now I'm thinking maybe it's worth having it checked. Thanks!
     
  7. Mar 13, 2024 at 10:01 AM
    #7
    Mr Badwrench

    Mr Badwrench New Member

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    300 hectares on single tank of kerosene
    Have it load tested. Voltage tells part of the story, but you need the amps.
     
    mtucker likes this.
  8. Mar 14, 2024 at 6:55 PM
    #8
    skyllerstickfort

    skyllerstickfort [OP] New Member

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    The battery was pretty old and corroded so I decided to just get a new one. Unfortunately, even with a new battery, it didn’t start.
     
  9. Mar 14, 2024 at 11:21 PM
    #9
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Ignition switch? Bad key? Try a different key.
     
    Lifer likes this.
  10. Mar 15, 2024 at 6:19 AM
    #10
    skyllerstickfort

    skyllerstickfort [OP] New Member

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    Yeah I changed the ignition switch and have tried 3 keys.
     
  11. Mar 15, 2024 at 7:18 AM
    #11
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    It's probably something ground related.... I'm on the same boat as you. It just started, about a month ago. Key goes in, turn and nothing. no click, no whine/hum, no turn over, absolute silence. It reminded me of my Celica where it would do similar things, but it would just die completely, until I jumped the starter relay. A thing I noticed 2 weeks ago with the Gray spare key was that, once I turned it over the speedometer, tachometer, fuel, temp amp gauge were off and every warning light remained on. Since this happened, I've had 1 incident where the starter remained engaged for an extended period of time after I turned the key back to off, so I cycled it back on and off and it stopped. I'm assuming an immobilizer issue and will probably need to find a way to bypass it.
     
  12. Mar 15, 2024 at 9:34 AM
    #12
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

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    Bummer that wasn’t it!
     
  13. Mar 15, 2024 at 10:11 AM
    #13
    Gunrunner28

    Gunrunner28 New Member

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    I had the same thing going on with mine for the last few months. I've spent hours researching forums, checking all of the engine compartment harnesses for moisture or corrosion, jumping relays, replaced a perfectly fine battery, plenty of fuses, etc.... It finally gave up the ghost yesterday and would not crank after the usual 2-3 hour wait time after shutting it off. Actually, I gave it about 4.5 hours before giving up on it. Was about to light flint to the parts cannon and commit to changing starter, immobilizer, the whole shebang, but stepped back and thought simple stupid first. In order to crank, the starter requires what... a hot wire, a not wire, and because of the "auto-crank", a signal wire from the computer to the solenoid. Crawled under it, there was my hot, there was my not, and there was my signal wire hanging down loose hidden from view below the starter. I guess, after 17 years and 295K miles of hot, cold, hot, cold, hot, cold the clip on the plug became brittle and snapped off. It had been slowly backing off and breaking contact for the last several months. Plugged it into the solenoid (the connection is fairly hidden) with a dab of RTV to "glue" it in there (no retaining clip anymore) and it cranked right up. This was yesterday early afternoon; it has been started several times and driven as far as 85 miles on one trip and never so much as thinks about not cranking. (That I would definitely recommend checking this signal wire to make sure it is secure before pulling the cannon trigger anymore. Hopefully you will find the same, cuss yourself for not thinking simple from the get-go as I did.
    Good luck!

    After-thought add-on here... You said you recently replaced your starter. This is definitely worth looking at. The clip that holds the plug in place is flimsy by design, even worse I imagine after it has become brittle by age and used a time or two. If it wasn't there to lock in on the new starter, it could very easily be backing or backed off. And naturally, with a new starter installed, that would be the last area I would be looking in for an issue.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2024
  14. Mar 15, 2024 at 11:23 AM
    #14
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

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    This does make sense... as that clip is tucked in one of the hottest places in the engine. I was getting ready to order a solenoid and rebuild my old starter and swap it back in and rebuild the "new one" and have it as a spare. I will have to pull mine out and check on that signal wire.
     
  15. Mar 18, 2024 at 8:02 AM
    #15
    skyllerstickfort

    skyllerstickfort [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for your help! This is what was going on. When I replaced the starter that clip broke and wouldn't seat properly. I finally got it seated properly and put some RTV on there so it doesn't come loose again. Now hopefully the larger heat shield stays on with some JB Weld since all the nuts rusted away long ago.
    Thanks again!
     
    Gunrunner28[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Mar 18, 2024 at 8:34 AM
    #16
    Gunrunner28

    Gunrunner28 New Member

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    Outstanding! Glad it worked out that way!
    I often wonder how much time and money I would save if I started with the simple stupid stuff first.... but I never have been able to do that. Always jump to worst case scenario and only go with simple stupid as a last ditch effort of desperation. I'm sure I'm the only one on here that does that, right?
     

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