Can this assembly be purchased or will I need to buy the rear shaft?

My name is oberry and thanks for accepting me to your forum. I am working on a 2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 4x4 four door 4.7 engine. I'm in the process of changing out my rear driveshaft universal joints and support bearing. My question is the shaft behind the support bearing has a double universal joint on the fwd end of the shaft. Can this assembly be purchased or will i need to buy the rear shaft ?

 

You can purchase a new driveshaft, but they're pricey. You should take it to a driveline shop for the double cardan joint.

 

Thanks bmf4069

 

I’d have a heavy truck service shop do your joint replacement, if possible, if you want to keep the double cardan joint. Its a trick joint to re-work.

Your other alternative is have a single shaft Aluminum Drive Shaft made. A heavy truck shop can do this, as well. This is the future in drive shafts. Probably what I’ll do if my original ever goes/blows.

 

I saved about $160 by removing the driveshaft on my own, then taking it into the driveline shop for new U joint install. Pretty easy to do with a few basic tools. Plenty of Youtube videos out there on the subject to answer DIY questions.

I found a new drive shaft could be purchased for $450, while U Joint install only cost me $240 or so.

Good luck.

 

I mean this when I say I feel for you guys that do your own u joints on a 4x4 (if doing all). 2wd only have 3. IMO, one of the keys to make things go a little smoother during install is make sure the yoke ears are smoothed out some. You might be able to use a scotch pad or just bite the bullet and use a fairly aggressive grit sandpaper. This way you’ll be able to use the giant ball joint C clamp for the job. I use very little hammer action. I’m too worried about messing up the pins in the caps

 

Good advice. I’ll just have a pro do it, as that looks like a bear of a job. Pass!

 

My U-Joint on Rear Driveshaft at the T-Case has been about ready to pop for about 1,000 miles now. I always heard the rear shaft was non serviceable?

Napa lists replacement joints available, but it’s unclear what joints they are for.

Anyone been successful replacing the front joint on a 4x4 gen 1.5.

Dealer lists a new front 1/2 for about $382 (week out from Detroit) and the whole shaft for $1,400 (2 days out from LA). All the other joints are good, and it has a fairly new Timken Center Support, if the $20 Napa joint can buy me another 75k then that’s the route I’m going.

 

If you have the tools they can be done. A driveshaft repair shop may be your best bet.

 

Ok cool, I’ve done quite a few U-Joint replacements and I have a 20ton press and the giant C Ball Joint press thing. I just head that the Tundras were non serviceable, so I was surprised to see a U-Joint listed for the rear shaft.

I was pretty sure Dana Spicer builds the shafts for these trucks. I was hoping it would be a 1310 or 1330, but it looks like it’s the same as all Toyotas going back to the 80’s. I ordered an SKF UJ285, I was trilled to see it was made in China

Oh well, I’ll source the actual Toyota Part, for now I have to have the truck back together tomorrow.

 

So maybe I’m late to the party, but turns out the axle and T-Case, plus both front U-Joints are the exact same as Toyota has used since the 70’s. The only different I noticed is the Tundra joints have a grease zerk, and the older joints do not.

Just swapped out the T-Case joint and it went smooth as butter. I cross referenced the Napa Joint UJ285 (SKF made in China) and it came up with old faithful Toyota 04371-60100. Toyota told me it absolutely would not fit, and a new driveshaft installed would be $2,500, and that was the only option.

Side note, working in the rain sucks, but I didn’t want to clear out the garage to do this.



Yummie!


Pop that fawker out!


Don’t waste time, cutoff wheel that $hit out.


OEM baby! (You see that Made in Japan!)


Look how nice that is. I added some Spicer grease all over the seal and U-Joint before install.


(Don’t do this, add 1 Cap, then the U-Joint, then the other Cap, too many C-‘s).


All done ready to be installed.


I broke in the new joint with a nice 6k burnout leaving the driveway. Drivetrain is smooth as butter. And I thought I had a bad Wheel Bearing Edit: I should have driven it more before making this statement, see post below.

 

So… I still had a decent vibration from an about 5-20mph and then around 45mph and then above 75mph.

The Double Carden felt tight same with the U-Joint at the axle. So I decided to replace the U-Joint at the axle. Worst case at this point I’m $120 into U-Joints and not a $1,400 driveshaft.

I picked up the new U-Joint from Toyota today, and I got it installed so fast I didn’t even take any pics.

Sure enough it was the rear U-Joint causing all the vibration. Pretty crazy seeing that it physically was tight with no movement. The only thing I can think was the previous owner let it get dry and it wore down a bit, and then by the time I greased it, it was too late, and at certain resonate frequencies it vibrates.

Im not sure why they say these driveshafts are not rebuildable. I’m pretty sure I found the proper part number for the Dual Cardan U-Joints, but I’m not sure about the other parts of the joint.

The truck is now incredibly smooth at all speeds. Next is front wheel bearing.

Only pic I got of the old joint.
​

 

>you got all the good out of that U-joint thats for sure.