High pitched squealing after hub replacement....dust seal?

I replaced the passenger side hub and CV without issue, and then yesterday(and again today) I replaced the driver side hub. The CV was still good, so I didn't replace that.

I did replace the inner dust shield that is on the inside of the knuckle. When I replaced the DS one, it pushed in to place with barely any resistance, and didn't even need to tap it in to seat it. When I disassembled everything today to figure the noise, it was on the CV, not the knuckle.

This is the noise that I am getting...


It happens at any speed, but will go away randomly, and start up randomly too. Goes away when I come to a stop, and usually starts up at about 10mph.

My thought on the cause....could the inner dust seal be rotating in the knuckle as it is attached to the CV?

What about the possibility of a bad hub out of the box?

Any insight is appreciated.

 

What kind of hub did you get? I assume when you say hub, you replaced the hub along with the bearing as one unit?/

 

I'd have to find the box if I still have it, but it was the Napa wheel hub and bearing assembly that they sell...so yes, all one unit and pre-assembled.

 

That doesn't sound metallic to me, that sounds like rubber on metal. Could be that rubber seal slipping.

I bent the brake rotor backing plate enough to rub the rotor when I pulled my DS CV for an ECGS bushing install, but that was definitely a metal/metal grinding sound.

 

Definitely considered the brake backing plate as I had the same issue when I did the ECGS bushing too.

When I disassembled and reassembled the hub yesterday, I made sure to give the backing plate some love and check clearances.

The bizarre part is that the noise isn't constant....after driving at speed for a bit, it'll go away, but come back randomly, and vice versa.

I think I'll be heading to Napa today to get a new dust seal....logically, and someone correct me here....if I needed a drift to remove the old seal, but the new seal fill go in, or fall out with only slight pressure, that would be the source.

I'm going to take some fine steel wool to the CV surface as well to make sure it doesn't bind the seal up.

 

Yeah, seems logical that the loose seal could be it. Maybe try Toyota OEM instead of whatever aftermarket brand seal Napa is probably selling you? I'd hate to pull everything apart again to discover the new seal has the same problem. Unless the Napa hub tolerances are inconsistent, I can't remember if the hub side dust seal seats into the hub or the knuckle.

 

The new seal should be tough to press in. I had a bitch of a time getting it in without denting it. I needed a seal driver. So it shouldn't just slip in like you said. I'd get an OEM part for that.

 

I'll be getting the OEM Toyota seals in the morning once delivered to the dealer. In explaining the issue to a parts guy and one of the techs I know, he said that he has seen the issue w non-OEM seals, this one in particular, in that they go in too east due to the OD being off by a bit...of course I'm taking it with a grain of sand, but given my own observations, it correlates.

A scan of the pertinent parts diagram for anyone that comes across the thread:


With snow expected on thursday and friday, I'll be trying to knock this out tomorrow....but I've done it so many times that I know all the socket sizes and torque specs.

 

That's weird that there is a left and right side part number for that seal. It should be the same damn seal.

 

I asked the parts guy about that and he said its for their parts tracking management but its the same side to side.

 

54 minutes and 47 seconds from the time I pulled the truck in to the time I took it for a test drive.

I took a caliper to the seals, and the OEM seal is 20 thou bigger on the OD.

You can see how the seal isn't seated here:


And a vid of how easy it was to remove...


The OEM seal took some dead blow taps all around, and a final seat w a board to do the trick.

Test drive was nice and quiet, so I'll have the truck for the incoming storm.

 

Nice job; glad you were able to fix it!!!

 

Nice work. What did you use to get the axle out of the hub so quickly? Is it just that you’ve done it so recently ?

 

That likely has something to do with it, but even when I replaced the CVs in '23, and when I did the ECGS clamshell bushing, it wasn't too difficult. Originally, it only took a couple of whacks from the dead blow and it released without issue.

Even when replacing the hubs, they came out fairly easily on both sides. I was worried it wasn't going to go well. I twisted the swayer bolt nuts off the LCA and the carrier bearing capture nuts off, but the hubs and CVs have been fine.