What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I removed these crusty links but realized I can't pull the sway bar unless I remove my new skid plate which isn't fun. I wonder what the lifespan of these links is.

 

Make sure you restrain the swaybar somehow. It will spin freely and bad shit can happen. I wasn't comfortable with that risk, so I removed it completely.

If you're over 175k-200k I'd strongly consider proactive replacement while it's easy. Denso replacement. Denso is OEM.

I've been thinking about that also. I will say, hitting interstate offramps with 270°+ semi-circles at anything over 35 can be a hairy experience.

 

I had the same thought so I pulled my skid plate and removed the sway bar entirely.

 

Can't cause an issue if it isnt there

 

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Hmm.

Looks like there are two maybe an old and new model #32879 vs #70603 that is advertised in the sale? In my area the advertised one is in stock "on sale" but the other one is out of stock, apparently opposite for your area. Thought I read others contemplating bearings saying this is usually $250.

https://hfpricetracker.com/tools/32879

Shows #32879 is normally $249.

Looking at where to put all my angle grinders to make room and contemplating getting it now. But maybe it will be $199 or less on 4th of July when the days are longer and can get it then....

 

i might have enough steel to build one using a floor jack & engine stand.

 

May take a bit of planning but probably doable

 

Well, mystery solved. The noises are gone. I guess those sway bar links took a beating in Arizona last year. Can't believe I waited so long to try this.

 

Agree on wanting to sharpie test and also read that if reusing retainers swapping the outer and inner gets a fresh seal contact surface. And maybe it's on the other Toyotas, but flipping the chamfer apparently helps in some applications with a new seal design that repositions the lip a little but haven't figured out if this applies to bestgen.

Timmy describes this at 42:00 in his video and gives credit to t4r.org. Some discussion is .

Think the bevel is really for the insertion. So with a sharpie test could keep it in original orientation and seal should end up centered. Also read the retainers are purposely softer than the axle and so can get scratched creating oil paths after all the on and off so new retainers (like $30 total for OEM with 25% off at Serra) are worth the piece of mind. Think you used new though if I member your writeup so likely not the cause of leak?

 

its gotta be the lift. Even with the cap my truck feels solid with 650's and 70 series tires. But i'm at 38psi rear & 40 psi front.

 

Actually used three instead of two of the rental type per spring last time (rented 2 sets) and it seemed pretty stable... but this would be a dream. Wonder if there is an adapter for a the 20 ton HF shop press to save space and not need both in the shop?

 

You can make a press a spring compressor, but turning a spring compressor into a press would kinda be half-assed.

 

Youre convincing me more to buy the HF press. Now whose trying to spend whose money?! What is used for the spring holders top and bottom like with that other tool?

 

Use the press to bend some plate. You were right before, it takes time & money to collect scraps for making dies & forms. Really, you might even be able to carve the spring collars out of wood. Attached to a flat steel plate collar. A press is a tool that can build itself...well, a drillpress & welder would help. Just have to collect the punches & dies. Bit i think if i'm gonna get a press, i want one thats got an electric pump, and i could use it quick enough to form curves, instead of pumping and releasing over & over.

 

What electric one are you considering?

 

i'm not, i have a hammer. Something used probably.

 

Sorry don't follow?

 

So i have a need right now, with a 23 month deadline, so i'll start looking, but no rush. I'm not paying $2k for a HF 50T. Maybe $500. But old machine tools come up pretty often, and my shop is wired for 220, probably need a 3 phase something because i want a mill.

i would not hate a mill & lathe that runs on steam. I could make a copper tophat if i needed to. I like making fire & can collect some water. Its a match made in heaven.

 

Now @FirstGenVol is going to see your topside rust & decide he better remove his bed to double check on his truck. Good thing you two are experts now.

 

i'd be thinking charcoal cannister. But really, when you've put the new bed on - it's going to be relatively easy to unbolt it & lift it up on bricks or whatever to have enough room to work on whatever. Good time to change any suspect hoses & put the rear diff breather on a long hose & relo it higher.

 

Yes you can. I did. Just need a second set of hands to help fish it thru at the end. You got this. Call on your wife

 

I finally finished this tensioner pulley job. As a novice to this, I'm glad it's over with but I'm happy that I got it done. No more squeaky rides.

 

Who did the double battery set up?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C35yV2Lv6Nq/?igsh=NHMxcDdzeW13ZDVh

 

Well I struck out at every single Auto Parts store. I was looking for the correct hose size for this little guy so I can run the tube up and it's not open top anymore and then I was going to put a breather pod filter on it. However nobody had the right hose size so if anybody knows off the top their head what the right hose size and what inappropriate breather filter would be please let me know.

 

I

If the hose runs a tad too small you can heat it in boiling water to make it more pliable to squeeze onto the fitting.

 

Here's what the first gen offroad kit uses. Looks like 1/4" or 6mm heater hose.

 

$6 Dorman 924-284 Front Differential Vent Breather Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHBY38X

$11 ¼ Inch ID Fuel Line for Small Engines 6-Foot Length

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTMXM2O

 

Purchased and than you

 

@VR6T Here you go bud, you dropped this k.