General Supercharger Thread

Voltage for odb pins 5 and 16? 7.5 amp fuse for obd good under dash. Just a double check... check 16 ground to chasis, check for ground with pin 5 then 4 to ensure pins have good grounds.

 

Yes and yes

 

Well then...that bites! Anyway to bench test the ecu? Usually you can find a gently used ecu. If you get one with the same exact part number it's plug and play. But you'll have to cough up 4 credits to HPT.
Before that route or dealership course is taken try submitting a support ticket to hpt!

 

I put tickets in with HP and VF to see if they could recover it or provide info for flashing it on the bench. I'm sure it's possible, but I can't find any info on how to do it on a tundra.

If I got a used one Id still have to take it to the dealership to program it to the VIN, yea?

 

I've heard of one being done on the bench bur don't have the equipment. If you get one with exact part number it's plug and play no programming. Just install and start it up. Same part number for same type vehicle.

 

Cool... Found a used one with the same p/n and overnight shipping. Gonna give it a shot.

 

Some have free returns too. Just in case...
Good Luck!

 

Dang. Another reason to go for an older truck.

What I really want to do is the Sequoia transfer case mod.

 

I visited my Sequoia transfer case in my shop at home this weekend. Unfortunately the truck is still 2,000 miles away.

 

New pulley installed, thank you sniv!!

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I hate the belt on the 5.7. Anyway, all is installed. No code at idle. No code with normal driving. It’s pouring and dark right now so didn’t get a chance to lean into it but it def hits boost quicker. Not sure about afr yet but will report back tomorrow

I’m still on mag kit 535 injectors and fuel pump so we will see how she holds up.

 

Is that stock belt or using the shorter one? I agree the 5.7 belt is an absolute royal pain. Talk about lack of room to reach things.

 

using the shorter one. Removed the one that came with mag kit and installed the heavy duty one that you shared a week or so ago in this thread. Worked great. Tight fit. Maxing out the tensioner for sure but it works. No room in there to get my arms. Two pry bars to get the ribs to seat properly.

 

And guess who took the entire belt off before loosening the 86mm pulley bolts. This guy. So I was grabbing the pulley with one hand while loosing with the other.

 

You only do that once... usually.

 

If it didn't work, you probably need to bench flash to recover. You can send in your ECM part number and a photo of the board to VF for instance, to see if Mat will help you, but I have to warn you he's gotten really frustrated lately with people using VF to recover when bricking with other softwares

 

Mat gave me the first couple steps to do the bench flash, so I'm going to pull the ecu tomorrow and give it a shot. I'm sure if I wasn't already a VF customer he would have been less helpful.

 

Hope it gets sorted out without getting a new one. GL!

 

I hope so. New one is like $1300!

 

Dealership pricing...fleabay for $100-200.

 

I've been there...glad I didn't have to pay for it

 

For those with FFV trying to get 60 psi high mode with boost reference may benefit with this hack found in the HP repository. It probably has been shared at some point but I'm way behind the curve and didn't see any pictures of jumper and relay pins. Anyway for FFV super install has the removal of the F/PMP VSV relay. That deactivates the high mode y switch and uses the low mode 43 psi regulator, we have 2. You can either ground pin 1 with relay installed, somewhere in the engine bay or jumper between pins 5 and 3. I just made a spade jumper and can confirm with key off circuit is open, key on circuit closed and high mode switched and activated. Attached is the diagram from the repository, relay location and my jumper. I am just a noob sharing what I searched and found.

 

You guys are scaring me with all this " bricked" ECU banter.

I want to do my own install, but am afraid to turn the truck into $50+k paperweight because I fucked up installing the tune.

Please assure me I'm being overly dramatic.

 

When tuning just make sure your battery is charged, a lot folks like to trickle when writing a new tune. Also make for damn sure your laptop is fully charged. Also Editor needs a internet connection while writing. So make sure your wifi if tuning at home or hotspot when road tuning has a good connection. When I tune I just send it. I've lucked out so far

 

As long as you:
1. have the truck battery hooked up to a charger while flashing.
2. Do not disconnect the flash tool from the computer or truck while flashing.
3. Do not have the computer shut off on you while flashing like @helidave then you will not have this issue.

Even if it does happen, there are solutions to the problem. It does not make your truck a 50k paperweight, but it could lead to a few days of downtime.

 

Make sure your equipment is setup correctly and is reliable before you start and the chances of failure are pretty low.

 

Ok so new 76mm pulley rips. Boost hits quicker. Wants to break loose more all through rpm range in 1 and 2.
Hard to tell afr and boost while driving but appear to hit 5psi accidentally quite often and def go passed 10psi. I want to say around 12psi. I see afr go to 10.8 but does goes up from there while getting only. Hard to see what it hits while driving but need to figure that would to see if I need larger injectors and a tune. I think I may need more fueling and tune.

Innovate afr gauge gave me a e8 reading. Reboot got rid of it though and seems to be working as it should now.

 

Like others have mentioned:
1. truck on battery charger (real charger, not a trickle charger)
2. laptop should be hooked up to power as well (unless you REALLY trust your battery)
3. I would also recommend running windows updates before attempting flashing...I've heard horror stories about reboots due to updates
4. Turn off radio, AC, unplug any devices, shut doors (I also remove the fuses for my power amp steps, intercooler pump and fuel pumps, not necessary, but I like to over do things...)

 

I might catch but I went against the advice of HP Tuners when it comes to where I run the VCM Suite...

Initially I ran VCM Editor on a new Lenovo laptop my employer gifted me. That was until it crashed while editing (fortunately not while uploading a tune). I figured what the hell, if it freezes on a lap top, what do I have to lose trying it on a Mac?

For years, I've ran Windows on Macs through Parallels, problem free. I currently have Windows 11 on a MacBook Pro M3 and MacBook Air M2, which has proven to be more stable than any Microflacid native computer I've used. Since the initial crash, I primarily use the Air when running VCM Editor and it has worked flawlessly.

I'm not saying that I'm doing it the right way, but it has been right for me.

 

I posted a few times back about 4firemandan and his fuel mods/intake that I copied. He was FFV while mines not.
He's got a few of the high psi mods and deletes for FFV. Search for him as he's got some good info.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/5-7-supercharged-e85-fuel-system-diy-project.101526/