Springs for Bilstein 5100

Consider if you want to go higher using Eibach Pro-Truck Sport Adjustable Ride Height up front with an AAL in rear. Found using stock springs with about 247,000 miles it both gets the advertised lift and feels better IMHO than the 5100s used previosly. Plus Eibach supports install heights above 1.1" (up to 3"). Cheaper alternative to COs but of course not all the advantages. Wheelers has free shipping and an occasional sale.

https://eibach.com/product/E60-82-066-02-10?epsid=2141

https://eibach.com/storage/instructions/D3419.pdf

 

I'll probably be happy with just leveling it some with the stockers and the 5100. I don't really want to lift it per se, just level it out a bit. I'm probably going to do the ball joints at the same time while I have things apart. They were replaced under the recall, but that was about 150,000 miles ago and I don't want to push my luck. Thanks for the info.

 

@shifty` im glad I found this post. I finally got my 05 DC 4x4 mechanically sound and will be ordering my suspension today or tomorrow. I have a few questions for you. I have new OEM UCA’s and OEM LCA’s coming. I was going to do 5100’s all around with a little bit more HD springs up front to carry the weight of a metal front bumper.

Will the 5100’s level the truck out on the 2nd clip? And do you suspect I’ll have rubbing issues on the UCA’s if I run it on the 2nd clip with 33”x10.5 tires?

I’m also tempted to go with ATS HD rear leafs to help payload for when I’m carrying fire wood and to be prepped if I find a cheap slide in camper. From my research the ATS HD leaf pack will give me 1.5-2” lift in the rear. With that being said, the front being on the second clip and those HD leafs in the rear should give the truck a total of 2” lift maintaining the factory rake correct?

 

Lifting doesn't help you avoid the rub most people deal with on these trucks, you'll have more luck avoiding rub in the following ways:

• A very good alignment tech, who'll take the time to adjust out your caster/toe/camber such that your wheel position inside the wheel well mitigates as much rub as possible
• Using an aftermarket UCA that provides more favorable geometry/angles than OEM
• Removing the front mud flaps, if you have the rigid plastic ones (rubber ones don't poke much at all)
• Either buying a wheel with a favorably low backspace, such that it pushes the wheel away from the suspension, or potentially using wheel spacers (which I don't personally love, and would recommend to avoid)
• Being a bit more reasonable with your tire choices, like scaling back to a 275/70r17 (which I know you don't want to hear, but ... Sorry, Charley!), although I will say, the 33x10.5 would probably be a better option than the 285/70r17 a lot of people seem to want to run on here...

With your DC, I wouldn't expect more than 1½" based on other DC owner input.

I dunno, because I'm really not clear what you're doing up front wih your lift. OEM springs and 2nd circlip? Have you seen the lift chart Bilstein provides for the 5100, which only applies if you're using OEM springs? (because, again, you should always use the bottom/lowest circlip w/aftermarket coils)

Based on this, from Bilstein for the 5100s, 2nd circlip will only get you 0.5" of front lift. If you want 2" you need to use an aftermarket coil like the Old Man Emu 2885, and your 5100 will be on the bottom circlip. At that point, you may as well save $150/side and get the 4600, honestly. Remember, Old Man Emu and potentially Dobinsons springs will require a different isolator to pair with your tophat.

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@shifty` thanks for the detailed response. The goal up front is to use 5100’s and OME 2885 springs paired with them to help Carry the weight of a metal front bumper. I’m also going with freedom offroad UCA to help with alignment after the lift.

I was wanting to go with 5100’s in the rear paired with ATS HD leaf springs to give a small lift and help with payload. I’m not sure if the 5100’s in the rear will work as far as reach goes with those leafs.

The plan was and is to lift the entire truck 1.5-2” with mainting some rake so the truck would be level when loaded with fire wood logs and or a 4wheel Camper on the back.

I’m just not sure if all of my math and configurations with the 5100’s on front and back work as well the chosen leaf springs.

 

I have 5100s on the back with ATS HD springs and it works for me. I did install a 3/4" lowering shackle, but still, it's pretty common for people to run ATS HD and 5100s. I don't think you'll be happy with that setup and a slide-in camper, though. I'm not all that experienced with them, but based on the little experience I have, only the premium, top-of-the-line campers that specifically prioritize light weight are under 1,000lbs.

1,000lbs in your bed will overpower the leaf springs and blow out your shocks in no time. The HD springs are good for people who tow, have a heavier topper and carry a lot of gear etc. They aren't up for 1,000+ pounds. I think they're advertised at 500lbs.

If you're going to go with a slide-in, you'll either need to look at custom, more expensive leaf packs, or air bags. I have air bags, in addition to the 5100s and ATS HD springs.

 

I appreciate this response! I have had it in the back of my mind that I’ll need airbags as a back up plan so this helps confirm I wasn’t off. I’m not understanding the 3/4” lowering shackle

Very curious to how much lift you got with your HD’s in the rear? Also what c clip are you on in the front and do you retain some rake with your setup. Any pictures of your truck are much appreciated

 

The general consensus is...the circlips are, functionally, kind of a gimmick. Yes, you can use them to get lift, but you'll hate the stiff ride. Some people here run them on a higher clip, but generally, the advice is to get a lift coil spring, and keep the 5100 on the bottom clip.

I have OME 2883s, and actually use them with Bilstein 4600s + a 1/4" spacer. No clips. I got just under an inch in the front. In the back I got just over an inch, so yeah, a little less rake than stock, but still a little rake.

The purpose of the lowering shackle is to knock down the amount of lift you sometimes get as a side effect of beefier leaf springs. I needed the increased weight capacity, but I didn't want the lift. I agonized (sort of) for months, knowing I needed an HD leaf pack, really not wanting the inevitable lift. Then someone posted on here about installing lowering shackles and I thought "what??!! Why have I never heard of these??". Different suspensions are set up differently, but for our trucks, the lowering shackles are longer than stock, and that allows the truck to sit lower on the leaf springs.

I had a strategy, but really just a guess, that with 2883 coils + 4600s and a very small spacer in the front, ATS HDs and the 3/4" lowering shackle (the only lowering shackle available) in the back, I'd get a very small lift in the front and back, but not look "jacked up" at all, not need to compensate by buying bigger tires etc. and not have a crazy amount of rake. Mostly stock, but increased load capacity. It more or less worked. I got a little lift, but I like it, and don't feel like it looks like those silly jacked up trucks with tiny tires.

I don't have a good photo on perfectly flat ground but this'll still give you an idea. My tires are 255 70 16. I'll admit it'd look better with a little bit bigger tires, but the power and gas mileage hit just aren't worth it to me.

 

Never forget that other toyota springs fit on tundras, fgt is just a wider frame taco/4runner. I would guess that dbl cab coils would lift ac/rc trucks. 5th gen 4Runner springs may lift fgt too. Shocks as well, my 98 4Runner has 14’ taco trd progressive springs, tundra 5100’s and 4Runner hats for like 2+” of lift.