Rear Bearings

So I hit the 100K mile mark. About 3 days after getting the 100K service at Toyota, dashboard goes crazy ("Brake Controller Error" etc.). Local mechanic said it was ABS sensors. Did a little search and heard it could also be a bearing issue. Toyota says it is a bearing issue and may be both rear bearings. Worst case scenario = $2700!! Wasn't expecting that. Seem like correct pricing? - think worst case was both bearing and both ABS sensors. Parts seem pretty inexpensive for it to be that high but I know it is pretty labor intensive. Guess my question is, would you take it to a local mechanic (theoretically cheaper) or take it to Toyota?? Worst of all, without ABS sensors I have no 4x4 and it is December in upstate NY!!

 

Do you have any noise or leaks? Check the wires and connectors - who knows what the dealer did during the inspection. Can you pull the codes to see which corner? May pull the sensor out and look for damage or oil.

 

You can have the rear wheel speed sensors removed and look for metal. If the bearing is failing there will be noise and the reluctor ring and sensor would show metal on them. Just because you have a fault for a wheel sensor you can't just assume the bearings are bad.

 

Toyota confirmed it was a bearing (maybe 2)!

 

Were you going through rear brake pads and rotors?? I'm having an issue but going through pads like crazy, and rotors. Have 1 new caliper and 1 oem, but both are cooking pads. Assuming both rear bearings are going bad and overheating the rear calipers

 

Bummer.

But in a pinch, you can make 4wd work without operable wheel speed sensors. If you turn the truck off, shift the 4wd selector in to 4wd, then turn the key to on (not start) and wait a minute, it will engage 4wd. Then you can start the vehicle and drive. The same goes for disengaging 4wd. I had to do this for a couple of weeks last year while I was waiting for parts to show up. Mine turned out to be a pinhole in the wiring harness at the wheel that allowed the wire to corrode giving intermittent then mostly permanent ABS and 4Hi dash lights, and not the actual ABS sensor - either from bambi head butting the bumper and throwing some plastic shrapnel, or more likely from a careless moment installing new coil overs (yes, that would be me).

 

that is very good to know as we are getting 8-10" of snow tonight. Was going to get it fixed this week but might be trading it in instead.

 

I just had my rear brakes replaced - terrible chatter when braking. They didn't replace calipers (that is big $$ apparently). The said one caliper was sticking and that "fried" the pads. I wondered afterward if they did something to prevent the caliper from sticking again - they did grease/lube it but I am betting it will/is sticking again.

 

DIY for far less. Just grab a rental car for a few days if you need transportation. You'll still be better off than trading for something else that will also possibly have problems.

 

If that was something in my "wheel house" I would be doing it. I have learned it is easier (although not cheaper) to let people that know what they are doing and have the proper equipment to do the work.

 

My OEM was destroyed by a failed rotor. The aftermarket one is doing it's job but it's sticking. So I've swapped pins 3 times cleaned the inside lube and added fresh caliper grease on there, but it appears they're being cooked since both sides are sticking..

 

Something else you can try is post a quick thread asking for driveline/differential shop recommendations in your immediate area... Although some dealers are still very good (competency and reasonable pricing), most are leaning toward less competence and inflated pricing; which steers me more toward reputable (sometimes non-dealer) specialists for jobs outside of my personal abilities.

A lot of guys on the forum have done re-gearing and such, and I'd imagine that you could find someone on here that's reasonably close to you to offer up suggestions on a few optional places you could look into. If nothing else, at least you'd be able to get an idea of whether or not your quotes from the dealer are fair.

 

Are rear bearings a issue with these trucks? What causes them to fail?

 

Usually water intrusion/lack of maintenance. The manual callas for 30k mile oil change intervals for the rear diff. Many don’t do it at all.

 

I wanted to use one of the 2 local guys that do most of the maintenance for the bearing(s) but couldn't get either to give me a quick quote. I like using the local mechanics (simpler, quicker, generally cheaper, and generally do good job). That said, I do not think they ever look at what needs to be done at certain mileages (like the 30K flush) and often don't do those things (even if I mention it).

 

It's always the right rear bearing.

I removed my axles myself and took the axles assemblies to my local automotive machine shop. They pressed off the old ones and pressed on the new ones.

Picked up the assemblies the next day. I had the truck back together an hour later.

If you can change brakes, removing the axle is only 4 more bolts. They slide right out, bearings and all.

I only needed the one side, but it was so easy to remove the good side and change that for piece of mind.

Be aware, your Toyota dealer is going to do the same thing. The tech will remove the axles and the axles will be run down to their favorite machine shop.

You are paying so much more because you are paying for "lift" time. The lift will have your truck on it for a full day or more.

I paid $775 for bearings, seals, pads and new rotors for both sides.

 

Did they replace the rear diff oil? More to the point did they remember to refill it?

 

Where did you source your bearings from?

 

The Toyota dealer does not take the axles to a machine shop to have the new ones installed. We have a shop press, the bearing tool and the knowledge.

 

My local machine shop chose the bearings. This way if there was a failure, I could reach out to them and ask why.

There is only one way to assemble the axles, so a failure would be on them.

They going on 6 years with the stress of a 1600lb pin weight 5th wheel being dragged every year.

"Que the you are over weight, sky is falling cats now".

 

I never even checked my gear oil when I removed the axles. The oil coating the splines of the axles was almost clear. I saw no need to worry about it.

 

Your shop may, but mine does not. I hope yours is the norm and mine is the exception.

 

Yours is the exception. Every dealership is required to have on hand all the specialty tools required to service all Toyota vehicles and the techs have to go to Toyota University (yes that's a real thing) both on line and attend classes.

 

With that said, do you really think an independent machine shop would have a hard time with a bearing replacement?

Please, do not paint me as an anti dealership shop repair cat. I have no problem understanding that dealership repair shops must turn a profit. I have good relationship with my local dealer.

I have never referred to a dealer as a "stealership". Peeps that use that term make cringe.

I am a fan of saving money on things that a dealer repair facility will gain you nothing.

$2200 for a bearing swap vs. sub $1k is quite a bit of money.

 

Not painting you as an anti dealership guy at all. If a guy or gal can remove brakes then it's pretty easy to remove the axles yourself and take them in somewhere. Dealerships have the tools and experience in doing these and an independent shop may not and you may be rolling the dice.

 

This brings up question I did not think of.

If one can remove their own axles, will a dealership shop press off and on new bearings?

Truly, I do not know the answer.

 

I had axle bearings replaced by an independent NAPA shop that specializes in trucks, big or small, buses, and RVs. Took about half a day while I waited. They did a very good job. Truck had 140K+ miles on it at the time. Obvious that bearings were the problem, making quite a bit of noise. The cost was $2200. That was in Aug, 2020. Still trouble free at 207K miles now.

 

Of course but get a quote and a time they will be done before handing them the axles.

Shouldn't be more than two hours. I could do a pair in an hour.