Gear Oils

How many quarts of automatic transmission fluid do I need if I'm dropping the pan and changing the filter?

Also, I'm going to change all the differential and transfer case fluids.

I know what the weight of the oils should be but what brands are you guys using that would provide a benefit if any? I'm not interested in using that thick gooey Red line stuff more of a standard or synthetic gear oil at the proper weight.

I'll probably also change my spark plugs, but plan to go with the OEM denso or NGKs.

I'm starting to load up my Amazon shopping cart now.

 

Don’t bother dropping the pan or changing the filter. Just do a simple drain and fill every 50k or so.
The filter is not actually a filter and just a strainer so no real need to change it.

I have switched to LiquiMoly for both engine oil and gear oil.

Just used OEM plugs and Denso boots. I have 104k and my boots were in really good shape and really did not need to be replaced.
May as well swap that PCV as well quick, easy, and cheap.

 

I know it 4qrt for a drain and fill, not sure on pan drop though. Measure out what comes out then buy an extra quart for level check

As for fluid brand I always go Valvoline Synthetic for engine and gear oils, hard to beat for the price

 

https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-...-8-cyl-engine-code-3ur-fe-7/?volume=us-volume

Scroll through for capacities

 

+5000 do not drop the pan!

 

Also, stay away from spark plugs from Amazon. Easier to go to local parts store for those or if you need to order, use a reputable place. I’ve gotten counterfeit plugs and believe it or not, used plugs from amazon.

 

I bought a case of six for my drain and fill. Used about 4.5 qts.

 

You are asking for trouble with broken bolts and possibly a warped pan that will leak if you take it off. Much better to do a couple of drain and fill cycles a few hundred miles apart and go on. It will be just fine.

Mobilube HD Plus 80-90 gear oil here. Good stuff for $20 qt

 

Thanks all,

I bought 6 quarts of Toyota ATF and will do a drain and fill. I'm at 80K with generally light duty and a lot of highway. If it is easy, I'll just do it every 30K miles from now on. I plan to drain into a bucket and will try to filter through a coffee filter. I'm a little weirded out with the whole use a paperclip to jump a diag port to raise to proper temp, but will figure it out. Maybe I'll leave the bottles in the sun I do plan to do a hot drain.


I also bought Redline 75-85 for all 3 gear boxes. I know the TC calls for straight 75, but based on what I know the 85 should be fine.

I will do the Valvoline Synthetic 5W30 for oil and a bottle of Ceratec with OEM filter, will replace the PCV valve and Cabin Air Filter as well whenever I have time to get to it all.

I decided to go with NGK Laser Iridium, never used DENSO, and have had great luck with NGK's in everything but my 5.7 Mopar in the Jeep that did best with old school Champion Coppers.

 

Did the Plugs, Oil Change, and Cabin air filter and attempted the PCV valve today, will do the Trans and Diffs next weekend. Dummy me THOUGHT I had a 24MM socket. 22? Yep, 23? Yep, 25, 27, 30, 32, but no 24............. Oh well.

Valvoline full synthetic 5W30 with a bottle of ceratec

Plugs came out without much drama, a few things in the way, but not a big deal. Had to stand on a step ladder to get in the engine bay. I'm getting old.......... lol.


Most of the plugs were right in spec, and showed no issues with being rich. One or two had a tan glaze that is likely from additives. One thing I didn't like was that ALL were very dry and had what looked to be a light layer of rust. New plugs went in without drama. Engine started without issue, and idled much smoother. The plugs definately had another 40K in them, but I am glad I changed them, and added a light drop of oil on the threads going in.



The PCV valve was another story. It came out without issue, but Mr fat fingers couldn't get his hands in to start it in the threads. Ultimately it dropped out of sight..... I cleaned up the old which looked fine and put some tape in the socket to put in that way. Someday, when someone takes off the intake they are gonna get a surprise. I'll grab a new one for when I put in the catch can.

I guess this was the first time I changed the cabin air filter. 6 years and 85K miles.... Nasty..........

 

Transmission, Front and Rear Differentials, Transfer Case today. 85K miles.

BLUF: All fluids came out looking great, and made me feel like I was wasting my time. However, as these were all the factory fills, I am content. Trans fluid change was a piece of cake, and will do every 30K miles. TOTAL time start to finish was under 3 hours including waiting for trans to get to correct temperature.

A few Notes.

1. A Scan Tool that shows trans Temp makes this very easy. I have the OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner. It allows you to download OEM specific data and areas for your car. Works great with all the Toyota, Ford and Mercedes modules of our cars, and is a great tool. This allowed checking the fluid temp pre and post cooler (I assume) as it has 2 AT temp readings. **EDIT - The two readings are Pan temp and Convertor Temp. You want to check the fluid level at a temp between 113 and 133 degrees F. I pulled the overflow plug at 125.

2. Front differential drain and fill plugs were easy to access and remove. The drain plug had a reasonable amount of spooge on the magnet, and fluid came out looking clean. Took about 2.2 quarts before running out the fill plug hole.


3. Trans Case was just as easy, with one BIG surprise..... The drain and fill plugs were FINGER TIGHT...... Unlikely they would have worked loose, but still a bit concerning. Took about 1.6 Quarts before running out fill plug hole.



4. Rear Differential was equally as easy, and the drain pug had expected spooge with a few thin fragments. Took about 3.8 quarts before running out fill plug hole.


5. Transmission. Here things got a little more interesting. Before I drained the fluid, I pulled the check level plug thinggy. To my surprise at least 1 quart came out when I pulled this. Granted the engine was off, but this was surprising. Makes me wonder if the trans was not significantly over filled from the factory.

I expected the fluid to be dark, as supposedly the WS fluid gets dark, but this was the first change in 85K. It was clearly still red and translucent when coming out, but was definitely darker than new which is blood red. I sprayed WD40 on the top of all the pan bolts in case I ever have to drop the pan. Added 4.5 quarts, and about 1/2 quart came out the overflow plug hole.



6. Oil Drain Plug - Last week I took a pic of my Mishimoto Magnetic oil drain plug. Was thrilled to see NOT A SPECK of metal or film on the magnet. So much so, I double checked it was magnetic. This was with 5K on the oil. SUPER happy to see this, especially for how much cam noise this thing makes.



Just added everything in my spreadsheet and the grand total for parts the last two weekends was $442.50.

This included:
- 9 Quarts of Valvoline 5W30 Full Synthetic Oil
- Toyota Oil Filter
- 1 Can Liquimoly Ceratec (I add every other oil change)
- 8 Quarts Redline 75W/85 GL5 Synthetic Gear Oil
- 4 Quarts Toyota WS Auto Trans Fluid
- 8 NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
- New Cabin Air Filter
- Gasket set (copper/aluminum)

Tools Needed: 24MM Socket, 14MM Socket, 5MM Allen Socket, 3/8" Rachet, Oil Filter Housing removal Tool.

The local dealer wanted $495 for Trans service, $325 for Differentials, and I'll assume $250-$300 for the Plugs PCV and cabin filter. I'm happy knowing the vehicle is so easy on the fluids, and know I am good for at least another 85-100K. I will likely change the trans fluid again at 100K, and Diffs/Transfer Case at 150K unless I end up doing more towing. OK it's Bourbon time. Hmmmm...... I may even do some Bourbon hunting as I just saved $800 ;-)

 

Great walkthrough, thanks for sharing!

 

Local mechanic wants $475 for ATF change, $750 for a full transmission service. He also said he isn't even sure there's a recommended schedule for ATF maintenance My truck has about 94K miles and I'm contemplating doing myself. Seems straight forward especially after your detailed post above. As for Bourbon, highly recommend Widow Jane 13 year....

 

I have a 2017 5.7 and the range for transmission fluid check in mine was 99-111. I jumped the pins and put the truck in check mode confirmed it with my scan tool.

Basic Transmission Type #1 = AB60 = 99-111*F fluid level check range (Usually found with 5.7L).
Basic Transmission Type #2 = A760 = 127- 138*F fluid level check range (Usually found with 4.6L).

 

As someone who is about to embark on this journey of maintenance, I appreciate your post. Feeling pretty confident going into it next weekend.

Cheers