Help me out with choosing a lift

Hey everyone!
I'm wanting to do a 3 inch lift on my tundra and just need some advice. Its an 06' Double Cab RWD with a rear elocker. Its my daily driver and used offroad maybe 10% of the time. I also just replaced LBJ and TRE with OEM.

Here is what I plan on buying:
-Bilstein 5100s with OME 2887
-Toytec AAL
-SPC UCA
-Durobumps
-Extended Sway bar Links

-SCS Gen5 17x8.5 -10
-Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/70R17

I plan on cutting my bumper like this:

So I know that 285/70R17 on 17x8.5 0 dont rub but do you think I'll rub with wheels at -10 offset? And if so, dont the SPC UCA move the tire forward?
But most importantly, would this set up put too much stress on suspension and engine components?
Open to discussion and feedback. Thanks

 

This might be unique to the 06 double cab.

You will will rub on the driver side frame at full lock to the left. (Iv tried different alignments to fix this, no luck). You will also have to remove the mud flaps and bend and hammer the pinch weld.

The -10 should help a little, that one thing I’m looking to change on my set up. Moving from method 0 offset to RRW wheels with -10 offset.

I have a similar set up as you, same double cab 2006.

 

Thanks @jerryallday
Mud flaps are already gone. My 265/70R17s on stock wheels were rubbing the mud flaps when i was on stock height.
Are you running SPC UCAs?

 

I have Camberg UCA, on 6112 Bisteins, Icon AAL, 285 17 Ko2 on Method 305nv 0 offset.

 

I'm going to ask you something, and you're probably not going to like it, but I'll take my lumps.

I was aiming for 1.5-2.5" lift, and one tire size up (275/70r17, 32.2") instead of going full 33". I honestly wasn't down with the rubs and jank I'd be dealing with in a full 33". I still rubbed with 32" on the flaps, but that's another story.

What I would tell you is, just running a nice, meaty 32" tire (~1.6" circumferance gain over stock) and new, wider wheels came with noteworthy consequences.

• Slower acceleration.
• Slower engagement for passing at highway speed.
• Truck feeling like it's just dragging ass a little, all the time.
• I don't know how many MPG I've lost but best calculation after my first 2 fill-ups is around 0.6mpg lost.

With that said, I can't even imagine how jarring of a change it's going to be with you moving to the weight and rotational mass of a 33" and, frankly, with how tall my truck already feels with a solid 2" lift front and back, I can't even fathom going a full 3", and I wouldn't want a 33" tire after how different it was going from 265/65r17 => 275/70r17

I can, however, understand how others have mentioned how much lighter and powerful things felt moving from a 35" tire to a 33" tire.

So I guess I would ask, knowing what other DC owners have found running 33's and as much and more lift than me (I can tag a few if you want!), why in the world are you wanting to go 3" and run 33s? Is there a practical reason you really need the extra inch in height and inch in diameter?

@805Tundra may be a good example to follow: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/page-5#post-2731773

Those are his specs and equipment, we have the same coilovers on our trucks, but I'm AC, he's DC.

I understand your need for the 2887 in front, knowing that front armor that's coming. I also don't think 5100s with those 2887 is actually going to give you 3", but ... I've been wrong before, and I think 2885 may be inapprorpiate.

 

thanks again @shifty` and sorry for the late reply, the past few days have been absolute hell.
My goal right now is to build something unique. I want something that people see and think "oh thats cool, I don't ever see a tundra build like that" but I also want it to still be a capable truck that i can use as a daily. Its my first car and its really special to me. Ik it sounds stupid but this truck knows me better than anyone else. Tbh theres no real reason for this specific set up, I just fell in love with the Gen5s and i dont ever see them on a first gen.
My truck has never been fast and has never been great on gas, but thats all part of owning a truck imo. I plan on regearing eventually so that should help a bit.
I'm on a 2" level right now and plan to move up to 275/70s before doing the big stuff. I'm a college student so money is slow.
Another thing is that I CANNOT stand rubbing. Its just always rubbed me the wrong way (no pun intended) and I avoid it at all costs, but I'd be willing to hammer and trim a little to fit 285s.
I'm not dead set on anything yet, thats why I'm talking this out with yall.

 

I'm definitely still rubbing, even with just 275/70r17. I could probably hammer my way out of it. I think the biggest shock for me is how "heavy" the truck feels with 32s. And slow, too. I slapped on the cruise control while going to drop off my old OEM wheels with a buyer on Saturday. I hit the cruise control, and the truck downshifted twice within 3-4 miles of only moderately hilly roads, which is something it never did with the stock 30.6" tires.

Gearing will probably help, significantly, and with RWD it's not even hard to pull off gearbox updates, there's nothing to match up front. I know that'll help. I'm really hoping that having a DC will work in your favor moving to 33s, I just can't fathom how anyone with an AC is tolerating rolling with 33s w/o regearing.

Anyway, this AC owner isn't going to be an apples-to-apples help for you though, I think you could probably benefit a lot from input of other DC owners who've done the deed, like @alb1k @FrenchToasty @des2mtn @805Tundra @Diablo169 @Casper421 all come to mind, and I'm 100% positive I'm forgetting some folks in that list but ...

 

You will 100% rub on the frame on the driver side on 285, there is a user on here with the SCS Gen 5 on a grey double cab. I will look for his video or Instagram. Those were my original choices for wheel and the ray10 was on the list, so I had tons of screencaps of them.

you should probably go with a pizza cutter tire, 255/75/17 if you don’t want to rub


Update. Read the caption.

 

Right now im torn between 255/80R17s or 275/70R17s on the 4Runner PTR wheels that are 17x7. I could also run 1.25" spacers if that would help

 

1.25 spacers will push your wheel out and you will rub on the fender. I tried it and took them off in 5 min.

I have 2 sets of spidertrax spacers for sale if you are interested one is mounted and removed , the other is brand new

 

Yep I’m with @jerryallday, I have 285/70/17 and they rubbed on the frame. Put 1.25” spacers on and eliminated that problem but also created a new one. As you push the tire out (negative offset) you will start rubbing on the pinch weld. Some hammering will also solve that problem. After that you shouldn’t have any problems rubbing at ride height/daily driving but still might in some areas at full compression when off-road

 

I do remember @alb1k is running 0.75" steel spacers (b/c f*** alloy spacers) and that seemed to be the sweetspot for his, after finding the same as above with 1.25".

The important thing to remember is, your spacer size requirement will vary from wheel to wheel, depending on its backspace. As much as I can't get down with the crowd that worships there, CO has a great calculator that's easy to use BEFORE you buy your wheels so you can crunch options. It seems like the sweet spot with AC/RC/DC alike is somewhere in the 4.7-4.8" backspace range on a 7.5"-8.5" width wheel. Once you get down to 4.5-4.6" BS you're inevitably going to rub. OEM backspace is 5.0" and 17x7.5 for later 1GT year w/alloys

Lower backspace = more poke = more risk of rubbing outer edges.
Higher backspace = more inset = more risk of rubbing frame and/or near the pinch.

Fortunately, there aren't a lot of offeset options for our trucks when you give your make/model at the major manufacturers, and nearly all of them put you in the correct ballpark.

 

I vote pizza cutters with 1.25" spacers.

 

To go along the lines with all of this (but in a different make and model), i have a 2002 Econoline E350 (work/motovan) with a 5.4 v8 engine. The stock sized tires are 245/75/16. My van was absolutely gutless (even with only a light load inside). I ended up mounting a set of 225/75/16 tires on to it. It boosted up my fuel economy (since the engine doesn’t have to work as hard), and it gave me LOTS more usable power for climbing hills and fighting headwinds on the highway. The transmission doesn’t hunt between 3rd and overdrive anymore either (which is a REALLY good thing). It’s a 2wd van, but ironically enough i get quite a few inquiries if the van is 4wd. The reason being is that there’s lots more space in the wheel wells since i have smaller diameter tires installed, so it gives the effect as having a lift with the stock 245 sized tire.

And back to how that relates to our tundras, i don’t think i would want my tundra transmission to hunt between gears to often. Seems like an accelerated way to wear out the tranny. Yes, the OP could swap in a lower R&P, but what once was $300 for parts and labor is probably 3x that amount nowadays. I understand lots of us like and love larger tires, but i have ALWAYS been a proponent to always be mindful and realistic to the realities of the downsides to larger tires. And this is coming from a guy who has 37x13.5 Boggers mounted in his CJ7...which quickly get unbolted from the jeep after i’m done wheeling and then bolt on a second set of 33” all terrain terrain tires for normal driving around.

 

Yup.

275 is as large as I'll go. But honestly, with the faux bead locks, it visually looks like 33s to me, so IDGAF. That's a box I don't feel the need to check-off.

 

You should find a donor sequoia and get 4.10s.

 

...which is what i did last month. The wrecking yard had a 75% off everything sale. There was one lone 1st gen toyota anything there, and it happened to be a 2002 Sequoia. About $50 later the 4.10 3rd member and front diff were sitting in the back of my van. A few days after that they were both installed in my 04 tundra.

I am known for finding great deals, but they are few and far between. Like the $30 Gear Vendors for a ford C6, All but brand new $25 Centerforce dual-diaphragm clutch for a ford FE 390, $30 jeep CJ Dana 300 transfer case...all at pick n pull yards. There was also a $175 Advanced Adapters Ranger Overdrive gear splitter, and two different jeep CJ8 Scrambler half cabs each $300 on craigslist. I’m sure there’s plenty more stuff that i’ve scored over the years. Then again i know that others have scored deals from me as well.

 

Alright so I think I've decided on 255/80R17s on the 4Runner PTR wheels that are 17x7 +4 (I'll look into getting spacers only if I rub after install). Now my next thing is trying to get a 3" lift. I was looking at the lift heights for the Bilstein/OME combo and recognized a pattern that each spring will lift a 2WD DC 0.5" less than a 4WD DC. It states that an 2885 will lift a 2WD DC 2.5" but states nothing about a 2WD DC for 2887, so I figured it would lift mine about 3" and I could adjust the preload when it settles

 

All of that is speculation. Legitimately. I mean, it's geared toward DC trucks always, but you should always take the numbers supplied with half-inch +/- discrepancy.

I still think you're nuts for aiming for 3", but I know how hard it can be to shake an idea once it's firmly seeded in the human brain. 2" was ample lift for me, my truck feels (and to me looks) tall as shit now. My truck was not "easy" for the 11yo and 13yo to get into before lift, after lift, they won't stop complaining. I even need to use the OEM step and I'm ~ 6'1" with abnormally long legs and arms. Extra inch is, like, no f'n thanks.

I'm pretty sure also, those are all 590# springs. You 100% sure that's what you want to use vs. a 700#?! 2886 is as close as you can get, at 660#.

 

lmfao I get it. I was dead set on a 6" lift for the first 8 months of ownership and then I finally talked myself out of it. I'm 6'2" and have the same problem with really long arms and legs.
Right now im at a 2" lift and I still have yet to use the step bars getting in or out. It just still feels short to me. Yes I am fully aware I'm crazy, people have told me I'm crazy since day one with this truck.
What would be the best way to get to 3" lift? Should I just run the 2885s and adjust the collar? I'm trying to avoid spacers

 

It's not recommended to use anything other than the lowest circlip on Bilsteins when running lifted springs, so no, I don't think adjusting is the way to go here.

Honestly, I still don't get it, and I'm not the biggest fan of running strut spacers, but you may want to just slap in a 1/2" strut spacer and call it a day. IIRC, the lift ratio on pucks is 2:1, so 1/2" would give you the 1" lift you're desiring. If you only want an inch, and you've already got aftermarket uppers planned, then run with it.

OME tens to under-quote their lift kits. You may want to skip Bilstein and go straight to their 3"/1" lift kit. Won't be adjustable (I don't think), but technically neither is the 5100 if you're using lifted springs, so seems like an apples to apples situation to me.

I think I missed that you're leveled in front, just saw your signature. I don't consider "leveling" the same as "lifting". That's probably why you're not noticing a ton of difference, you just changed the angle of the frontmost portion of the truck. You haven't "lifted" the truck yet.

I'd be interested to know whether the 2886 OME coil is recommended for our Tundras.

 

I was gonna weigh in on tire size situation but looks like a decision was already made there, carry on

ftr, I was hell bent on running 285’s, methods, and wheel spacers

 

Hey everyone, I'm back! Sorry for the late response but life has been very crazy recently.
I'm returning for more input on how I should be getting to 3" of front lift. Yes, I know im insane for shooting for 3". Anyways here are my routes:
3" front spacer (Not even an option due to the roads I travel)
Bilstein 5100 with OME 2885 and 1/4" Shims (Not keen on mixing lifts but willing to do it)
Bilstein 5100 with OME 2887 (would most likely get me to 3" but wont the 5100s max at 2.5"?)
OME 90004 with OME 2885 and 1/4" Shims (Again Not keen on mixing lifts but willing to do it)
OME 90004 with OME 2887 (Would get me to 3" but reading many bad reviews about how stiff OME is)
Eibach PRO (Claims adjustable to 3" but also says average lift numbers and I dont think they'll actually get me to 3" without issues)
Icon 2.5 VS IR (says adjustable to 3" but dont hear of many running Icons)
Fox 2.5 (Really really expensive for a daily driver)
King 2.5 (Also really expensive)

Anything else I could do? What do yall think?

PS. I'm going to be running 255/80R17 on 17x7 +4 Wheels