General Supercharger Thread

Few peeps trying to figure out the signal conversion no luck yet. I’ve been eager since the Whipple inlet is 102mm. From my research you want the new 103mm tb better electronics for boosted applications. I’ve got a part number laying around here somewhere

 

If anyone upgrades away from their RCF, i'd be interested in buying it. It works on the 4.7L also. Found one place selling it for around $450 shipped

https://www.nengun.com/oem/lexus/22030-38050

 

Installed Sniv's almost-a-party pulley (2.2") tonight! Ran into a couple of scares but managed to get 'er did. One of the threaded studs from the URD pulley tool managed to shear in the pulley shaft. It was right then that I understood why they provided two studs.

 

The denso plug is standard for both harnesses. I don't see why it wouldn't work for injectors and pump. The pump should fit the canister as its not a non standard size and just tune for new injector. Give Bruce at fiveO a call to verify the 535's fit.

 

It's not a RCF but I have a 76mm that was bored to 79.6mm with lighter blade by maxbore.

 

That's where I found one also. Just bookmarked, not purchased.

 

I got mine from LKQ for 300, found it here:

https://car-part.com/

Turned out to be new.

 

Did Mike tune your truck?

For those that have upgraded to the 80mm or 77.5mm pulley have you found the supplied/recommended belt works without slipping? I see a green HD belt being mentioned a lot and wondering if it’s a good idea to upgrade to a smaller belt when upgrading pulleys as a preventative measure.

 

I'll find out Monday.

@Silver17 I believe his is okey-dokey.

I think it was him...I am generally wrong.

 

Yes a good idea to run smaller belt and the hd green works well.

 

Anyone running the psb1 gauge,would the location of the sensor create a bad read scenario and do you need to set the gauge up before install? Mine has read 14.7 at idle at part throttle just kinda hangs at that number regardless of pe....bad gauge?

 

What does it indicate when you romp on it? A vast majority of the time, with normal daily driving, it will likely indicate 14.7. How are you comparing PE vs. AFR?

 

I got on it on the drive back but not a WOT run ,gauge stays at 14.7 14.8 most times about half throttle and normal driving from 25mph to 65 mph....it shows negative boost numbers 22.0 22.5. Until I'm in to it approx 95mph it shows 0.00 boost

 

On the drive home ran it up to 95mph not a full Wot run gauge fluctuated between 14.7 14.8....boost went to 0.00 then back to -22...-22.5. Both readings seem to stay at 14.7 and -22 in general use at normal speeds

 

<ingest grain of salt>

as a comparable. (80mm pulley)

I hit positive boost very easily @ 1/3 pedal. 1/2 pedal is easily ~5lbs

as others have stated - AFR will stay steady when not in PE. PE for me ~1/3 pedal. then, I immediately drop to 10's.

as soon as speed levels or I come off pedal, AFR goes to 14.7.

I am rarely, if ever, in boost. usually negative. <insert driving style disparagements here>

easing into the pedal will not put you in PE. I believe pedal position is the main trigger. other will correct me.

with a TRD exhaust (or comparable) you can hear PE happen...<insert vtec joke here>

 

Could the sensor location give me bad readings...bozos installed it after secondary cats

 

Truck is running good but that is what they do before they explode

 

Yes, absolutely needs to be before the cats to get a good reading, the catalytic convertor alters the reading.

 

Explains why aftermarket cats tend to throw codes and he addresses why the "fixes" on the O2 sensors don't always work.

 

Definitely need to move that sensor pre-cat. You wont't get any good readings after the cats.

 

Doesn't sound right. There should be some fluctuation on both gauges.

 

Sounds like your boost gauge isn't plugged into a boost reference, but is instead plugged into a vacuum reference. Can you see where the lines run?

 

Do you have the ability to get a data log?

 

I would be interested in seeing the results too. I doubt it is leaving much on the table even with the larger opening. PS is the only write up I've seen on this type of testing.

Intake + TB matching the blower inlet seems to be the be the goal, Intake + TB larger than the blower inlet seems to be diminishing returns but still gains. The only negative I've read about or seen presented is large TB can make pedals touchy.

 

That's currently my situation. My cats were stollen and the replacement for the right bank is now throwing codes.

 

Aftermarket or OEM replacements?

I'm on aftermarket cats but they tuned out the rear 02 sensors per the header company's recommendation.

I'm dreading dealing with cat/02 issues.

 

The one time I tried the stud method it felt like it was going to fail which is why I always recommend a press if possible, glad it worked out though and hopefully the last time you'll need to screw with the shaft!

 

The original Harrop provided belt works just fine with the 77.5.

 

Army....you are gonna need to give me a picture I do kinda know what you are talking about just don't know where to look. I just find it hard to believe that a so called qualified tec would screw this up......OH THATS RIGHT I had National Speed do it.?..........silly me what was I thinking

 

I have an appointment next Monday to change the sensor location,I'll do that and see what the gauge shows...then we can go from there.....gotta say truck is running smoothly, just hope it stays that way.