First Tundra DIY oil change, lessons learned

My teenage sons and I finished our first DIY oil change on my 2014 Tundra and a 2010 RX 350, both using the Kirkland SAE OW-20 for $30 case ($3 per quart). I had purchased OEM filters for both vehicles from Amazon (~$8 each), and I had to buy a 3/8" breaker bar from Harbor Freight ($20) to get enough torque to get the filter canister unscrewed on the Tundra. -- I really appreciate the insights and suggestions on this forum. Having grown up in a home where my dad did virtually all of the car service and repairs himself (with me holding a light and handing him the necessary tools), I was glad to share the experience with my two sons. (We had a clumsy mishap that we'll laugh about for years, but I'll have to share that some time in another thread.)

Have others created their own DIY "Oil Change Service" checklist of things to do and products to use for a more comprehensive service when doing the oil / filter? (For example, we could also change out the engine and cabin air filters at this time. We might want to check / top off washer fluid, check brake fluid, check steering fluid, etc.) -- Any thoughts on a good checklist / suggestion list to do while changing oil / filters DIY?

 

Write tool list required on an index card and tape it to your tool box. I can't remember what I had for dinner yesterday. How do you expect me to remember what socket fits the drain plug?

 

At my age (74), getting up and down are the biggest challenges. So I MAKE SURE I bring the exact tools and parts with me when I slide under the truck on the creeper. These are tools for the skid plate (12mm socket and 6" extension, 10mm socket for the front three bolts), drain plug (14mm ratchet combo wrench), filter housing removal tool, 3/8" ratchet with 4" extension to remove the filter housing drain plug, O-ring for same, drain tool for the filter housing and several once used paper towels to wipe up. The first step is driving the Tundra up on a set of Rhino Ramps and set the parking brake. This makes access underneath very easy.

I have a box in the garage that I use to store paper towels. I wash my hands in the kitchen sink and use paper towels to dry them. I then put them in the box in the garage. They typically build up faster than I can use them so I always have a good supply.

Once oil is drained and drain plug is replaced, I move out towards the oil filter. I have the 5 gallon bucket used to drain the pan on a piece of cardboard that I can slide into position. This includes all tools and several paper towels. Drain the filter housing, replace the O-ring and tighten the housing drain plug. Then I remove the filter housing and it's time to roll out and get up (with some effort). I have a 4' long folding table I set up near the front of the truck to work on installing the new filter. I put the new oil jugs there too along with a funnel.

Then it is back down underneath to install the oil filter housing. Once that is done, back out and up to fill with new oil. I do that and start the engine to make sure there are no leaks (there never is). I'm back down again to replace the skid plate and that is the final chore. No need for any more tools than the ones mentioned above. I have modified my skid plate to make it much more easier to remove and replace (see photos in other posts). Once positioned, I install the mounting bolts and I'm done.

I'm due for an oil change pretty soon so I'll take photos of my set up and post them here.

Dan

 

Can I bring mine in for an oil change? I'll bring paper towels.

Edit: I see you are on the left coast. Guess you're going to have to come to me.

 

So o have all the supplies needed now - Ramps, oils catch can, new filters, ow-20 oil, fumoto valve, aluminum filter housing, etc. I am going to tackle this job at 930am Sunday morning before the nfl games start.

My question is do I pull the truck up on to the ramps before I drain the oil? I will start the truck and let it run for a bit to warm up the oil but I was thinking that it wouldn’t be level on the Ramps and might not drain all the way. Probably overthinking this but wanted to check.

 

Yes, run it up on the ramps before draining the oil. The oil is thin enough that you don't necessarily need to warm it up prior. All of the oil will drain out when up on the ramps, no issues there.

Dan

 

Great! Thanks for that info

 

Ok it’s done - but like seemingly everything else in my life it came with an adventure. I got everything drained and the fumoto valve installed. I removed the oil filter cartridge and was replacing with the oem aluminum one. When i tried to remove the aluminum stalk in the center, the stalk piece came apart from the bottom part with the tabs. I got it all out, crimped it back together and put into the aluminum housing. Got the o-rings installed and threaded the new aluminum cartridge back on. Put 8.5 quarts 0w-20. Checked the dipstick = perfect.

Started the truck and backed out of the garage and oil was pouring out of the new aluminum filter housing. Drained everything (easier now with fumoto valve at least) and removed the filter. The o-ring was in four pieces…..must not have had it seated right when I tightened it I guess. Got a new o-ring, reinstalled everything and put oil in.

No leaks now and drove up to the parts store to recycle the old oil. At least I know what I am doing now and will certainly keep an eye out for any leaks. All in all, pretty easy and satisfying job knowing it’s done.

Forgot to mention - I also picked up 5 cans of brakleen to clean up the garage floor and driveway after the mess that I made.

 

You can remove the filter independently, no need to drain the crankcase to do that. Also, make sure you properly seat the O-ring on the filter housing and lubricate it (I use Lithium grease for that). I also wipe down the cavity that the oil filter housing threads into to make sure it is clean as well.

In addition, I start the truck while still on the ramps (after adding new oil of course) and the skid plate not installed to check for leaks. I've never had any but it is a lot easier to deal with if it does happen while still on the ramps.

Dan

 

Covering it with engine oil using your finger is the proper way and does not require any special grease.

Also, no need to hulk-tighten it because that's o-ring's job to keep her from leaking. Mine never leaked.

 

Yes, engine oil works just fine. I prefer grease (a very small amount) since it is easy to evenly cover the O-ring. But either way works just fine.

Dan

 

Thanks guys, I did lubricate it. I guess it wasn’t seated right - seems like it creeped onto the threads as I was tightening it. Next time I will definitely start it on the ramps. Getting under it on the driveway was a pain. Learned my lesson and feel like it will be seamless from now on. Fingers crossed….

 

Reminder that the Mama Toyota oil filter has a picture/diagram on the oil filter box confirming where on the filter housing the O ring is to go. As well as where (shown with an "X") not to located it.

 

just looked - it sure does!!!!! Sheesh, I will read the instructions next time

 

This is probably why Toyota went to 10K oil change intervals! LOL

 

So regarding the Fumoto, the set I got came with a drain tube, but it does not stay "on" when draining and will drop off, which is ok since I got a drain bucket underneath, but am wondering if I missed something like a clamp or something to hold it in place so I don't have to manually hold it until it finishes?

 

Mine pops off sometimes when there is air and not a tight fit. Try twisting it on and squeeze the tube while you do it.

 

Right, I ended up lying on the ground and holding the tube, luckily it drained pretty quick, was a tad sore afterwards due to the weird angle I was at.
Wondering if getting a small hose clamp would help?
Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-1-1-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clamp-6712595/202309385
Not sure the size but just the idea, flat head and tighten and un-tighten it as needed.

 

I like these better; i can't stand dealing with the screw om clamps.

$40 440Pcs 15 Sizes 6mm-20mm Spring Hose Clamps for Water Pipe-Automotive Fuel Line-Silicone Vacuum Low Pressure Air Tube Clamp Fasteners Assortment Kit

https://www.amazon.com/6mm-20mm-Pip..._id=6001523011&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

 

Ah, that sounds better. Do you remember what size you use?

 

No i don't; i usually just get the variety pack. You never know when you'll need them

 

Very true. Thank you kind sir for the help. Ordered and will arrive this afternoon....

 

Oil change number 2 and things went very well. Got home from work and immediately drove the truck up onto the ramps in the garage. Truck is too long for the garage and had to keep the door open. It’s 20 something and the concrete is cold!!!! Opened the fumoto valve and drained the oil, then took off the filter housing and replaced the filter and o-rings, closed the Fumoto valve, threaded on the filter housing and tightened that and the drain cap. Measured out 8.5 quarts and put in, started her up and she purred like a kitten. Drove up to the auto parts store and recycled the old oil and got gas. Came home and checked again to be sure - no leaks. I think I am getting the hang of this now!!!!

 

Rock on!! You got this!

Dan

 

I will be starting my oil changing adventure very soon. On my tundra and wife's SUV. Plus going to tackle my 100K maintenance also. Thank god for this forum and YouTube. Wish me luck!!

 

Good luck man! You will do fine. Just make sure you out the o-ring in the right place!!! Ask me how I know…..

 

What o ring? haha Don't make me nervous.

 

Not one, but TWO!!!!

 

Is the O rings your referring one from the drain plug and the other the rubber ring around the filter?