Bilstein 4600 or 5100

I’m thinking about replacing my shocks, front and rear. 2006 2WD DC with 120,000. What are the differences and are the 5100’s worth it.? Do they come with replacement bushings…..
Will probably do my rears and pay to have fronts done…..

thx

 

5100s are only worth it if you plan to level the front of your truck so you have zero rake. The 4600s are the comparable replacement to the Toyota OEM TRD off-road shocks. Same shock but not valved specifically to the Tundra.

 

If you have no intent or plans to lift, then just install Bilstein 4600s, pre-assembled. If you have intent to lift/level, can point you to a wealth of info there.

Don't mess with Monroe. People complain of soft/squishy ride. If you're adamant about NOT using Toyota's OEM upgrade (i.e. Bilstein), then stick with their OEM standard, KYB brand. If you do buy 4600s, there are a few stores online who will pre-assemble them with new springs for a small upcharge which makes install far more approachable for the basic-level DIY'er, SuspensionLifts.com actually sells a pre-assembled 4600 kit that's really approachable in price. Most other aftermarket brands have their own issues, best just to stick with KYB or Bilstein, Toyota chose those two brands for a reason.

Fronts are pretty easy to swap out if you buy the strut pre-assembled, rears are annoying, period, specifically getting that top nut off the rear shock.

For fronts, basic process .... take off one end of the swaybar link so your lower control arm (LCA) swings more freely when jacked up. Crack free the lugnuts, jack up, remove wheel. Remove lower mounting bolt, and use the factory jack just under the LBJ to lift/lower the LCA to help tap/wiggle the lower bolt out, being careful to (A) not damage your CV axle boot if 4WD, which you aren't and I'm only typing it in case a future reader is, and (B) make sure you reinstall the same way you take out later on, i.e. bolt head to rear of truck. Remove top three nuts, strut should fall out. Install is reverse of the above. Torque specs for the '05/'06 are here (more detailed info here), I prefer to confirm torque again after 50-100 miles or so:

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Thx Shifty. Did not know you can buy already assembled with spring. This may be the route to go as I don’t mind the DIY route.

You’ve helped me thru valve cover gaskets and a timing belt

 

4600s pre-assembled, fronts and rears, $700. This is a legit company with good customer service. Bilstein's rear shocks come keyed to let you hold the top post with an allen wrench while you tighten down the nut, so do whatever's necessary to cut out the old ones and you'll save yourself a ton of pain. Hardest part is trying to figure out the washer-bushing order on assembly . I split the top nuts on my rears to get them off faster, knowing they're going off to my metal recycler friend to recoup a buck or two. Yes ... it is $700, but think to yourself: When will you need to do this again? In another 120k+ miles. It's less than $800 and it's going to tie you over again for that long? Sorry, but that's a steal!

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...-and-rear-shocks-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

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Pre-compress the rear shock bushings like @Jack McCarthy did before trying to install. (IE: put the bushings and washers on the strut the night before.)

 

I replaced the rears with 4600s last winter...

Kinda wish I went with the 5100s, I'd like a stiffer rear end.

Yeah, they where a pain. I used pneumatic mini-sawzall to cut the top bolts off.

I wouldn't pay for pre-assembled fronts unless I really needed new springs for some reason....

I mean, sheesh its only a $150 a pair or $200 for 5100s for shocks....spending hundreds more just not to have to compress springs isn't worth it to me.

 

Do those springs wear out? If not, I’ll remove and take local shop to compress and install shocks? Can see them charging too much $$

 

Yeah, they do wear out over time. Especially if under load and usage, constantly, especially when driven with worn-out shocks/struts, i.e. all the work gets offloaded to the spring.

 

Thanks. Is there any real way to tell without removing. Shocks and or springs?
Truck is ‘06 and has 130k if that’s an indication.

 

I don't think they'd be shot at 130k. 230k? Sure, I'd believe it. I also don't know of any realistic way to tell without actually pulling them out of the strut.

I'll tell you though, "you're welcome to have mine, they only have 75k miles", they may actually work on your DC/2WD, mine are for AC/4WD. Someone around here has the damn numbers on the different springs. Just know, you are in my general vicinity, so it's an option. Link: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1722#post-3320596

 

Part #'s, lengths in mm, 2x or 4x and side.

Tundra AC springs:
48131-AF170 = 340.0 2wd R
48131-AF430 = 339.5 2wd R
48131-AF470 = 333.0 2wd R
48131-AF180 = 344.0 2wd L
48131-AF440 = 343.5 2wd L
48131-AF480 = 336.5 2wd L

48131-AF410 = 358.5 4wd R
48131-AF510 = 351.5 4wd R
48131-AF420 = 363.5 4wd L
48131-AF520 = 356.5 4wd L

Tundra DC springs:
48131-AF250 = 344.5 2wd R
48131-AF290 = 352 2wd R
48131-AF260 = 348 2wd L
48131-AF300 = 355.5 2wd L

48131-AF270 = 356.0 4wd R
48131-AF310 = 363.5 4wd R (off road pkg)
48131-AF280 = 360.5 4wd L
48131-AF320 = 369.0 4wd L (off road pkg)

 

Thx Shifty. I’ll pass on the shocks. Just glad to have the “clunk” figured out. I’ll report once bolts are installed.

 

I have the 4600 setup Shifty listed. I love it. The truck is planted better than any other truck I've owned.

 

My 2006 Tundra DC RWD with 302,000 miles is finally in need of shocks. It showed no obvious signs until this past year around 290,000 miles

I’m trying to decide between the 4600’s and 5100’s preassembled with the coils.

My factors are:

Always loved the original ride but did little hauling/towing and used the truck for family trips. But now it will also be used for occasional towing and hauling.

I am also considering lifting the vehicle slightly, probably no more than an inch. Will leave the rake as is or only slightly raise the front more to leave less rake (unsure of how much rake is there with factory setup).

I dont see myself getting larger wheels but perhaps slightly wider if tolerable. Currently has factory 17” wheels with 265 17r 265’s. I would definitely consider taller wheel/tire combo but dont want issues with incorrect an speedometer

Am I understanding this correctly that this means I should get the 5100’s preassembled?

 

That’s correct. If you want to raise the front end to get rid of the 2” rake, that would do it.

 

These have around 2” of rake from the factory. 5100s would be required for lifting the rear. May as well use the 5100s to lift the front as well. Reducing the rake by lifting the front only will be counterproductive for towing duties. The rake allows for squat (for some reason a dirty word here) with weight from towing.

 

thanks guys. It sounds like the 4600s are slightly stiffer than stock. I assume the 5100’s are even more stiff?

I hate to give up the factory ride, but obviously you can’t have both

 

About the same were told. Same shock essentially, one designed for lift (5100).

 

Upon further review I see the speedometer issue can be corrected with taller tires. and I’m going to stick with the stock rake.

So I need to explore that Looks like I’ll spend another two or three plus hours in the forum trying to research because I want no tire scrub whatsoever.

if I stick to my current tire height I’ll just go with the 4600s but I’ve got to make this decision fairly quickly

the tire wheel change would only happen next year when my tires need to be replaced. But I want to be prepared for what I’m going to get because I’ve got to get the shocks replaced before I go on a trip in 3 1/2 weeks

 

You may want to reuse some of the old shaft bushings if they're in good condition in case you run into the same problem as me getting everything on there with a spring compressor and using the taller Bilstein bushings. Otherwise, you could just use the compressor-less method of letting the weight of the front end of the truck compress everything for you to get that top nut on there.

Or you could just pay a shop to do it for you or buy pre-assembled Bilstein struts.

 

I haven’t done my own repairs and mods in decades, but now that I’m retired and after reading of so many improvements I want to do to my truck. I think I would enjoy it since I have the time

however, in this case, I’ve got to get the timing belt and shocks done by the shop since I have a trip planned in three weeks that will be about 1200 miles

but more directly to your point. With my truck being 17 years old and 302,000 miles wouldn’t it be best to go ahead and replace the bushings?

is there anything else that would be easier to have done while they’re doing the shocks? I’ve had to do nothing to the suspension thus far so it is all 100% stock and original equipment

 

Lower ball joints

 

thanks that was the main thing I was thinking of after seeing a lot of references to ball joints in the forums

 

It’s a poor design that Toyota abandoned in future products. A weak link. Best have to have OEM and replace every 100k or so if no other symptoms present.

 

At 302,000 miles without replacing the shocks or ball joints, it sounds like I’ve been very fortunate

 

Yes, with 300k+ miles on original shocks you want to replace the shock bushings as well. Go ahead and use the Bilstein ones if a shop is doing it for you due to time restrictions.

You should price the 4600s against the OEM off-road shocks, they may be basically the same price if a shop is doing it for you since they usually want a profit on a marked up part.

 

You can also get the 4600s and choose a spring with a bit of lift to it, if you want. Not to cloud the water, just another option. You’re pretty much limited to using the bottom-notch/circuit setting with any aftermarket lifted spring on the 5100s anyway, so … maybe it’s cost effective. Dunno.

Whatever you do, avoid polyurethane isolators. Rubber only.

. OEM lower ball joints, specifically in case it wasn’t said. And ordered from a trusted vendor, not Alibabazon.

 

i’m getting close to pulling the trigger and I have decided on keeping the current rake but raising both the front and back somewhere around 1 to 2” (effective lift after it seats/breaks in)

Excuse my newbie questions about lifting the vehicle.

so, my understanding was that the 4600s and 5100s were comparable as to stiffness and ride. And that The 5100s were when you wanted to lift the vehicle

so is the 5100 adjustable as is? And then I just need the corresponding springs for the front?

I want to keep it within tolerance, so that no other modifications are needed without causing wear or handling issues, if that’s possible

thanks shifty. You’ve helped me out tremendously. And I saw where you recently had surgery so I wish you the best

 

5100s allow lift using the existing factory springs up to 2.5' or so depending on application. There are 4 clip settings that allow adjustment when it's off the vehicle. The rears provide no lift, but are longer to accommodate lift up to 1". You would add a leaf, use all new rear leafs or (gag) add a 1" block.