Foam Washing question

I am going to try the foam washing but I have questions ? I have search and read online but I have no clear answer and it may be a personal preference but I would like to hear from the forum members suggestions or is there a guide/steps for foam washing
1) Do you wet vehicle before applying foam
2) How long do you let foam set before rinsing
3) After you rinse foam do you wash vehicle by hand,
4) At what stage do you apply IronX or some other detox
Also I know back in the early days 70's & 80's it was advised not to use pressure washers as it caused the paint to fade, is this still true or is there a better way using a pressure washer on vehicle
I would appreciate any tips or suggestions

 

1) Do you wet vehicle before applying foam YES
2) How long do you let foam set before rinsing 10 minutes
3) After you rinse foam do you wash vehicle by hand, YES
4) At what stage do youapply IronX or some other detox After the foam and first wash. Apply IronX, wait 5-10 minutes, then rinse and go over it with a clay bar / mitt if available. Then wash it again. Try to do this when it’s not super hot or in direct sunlight.
Also I know back in the early days 70's & 80's it was advised not to use pressure washers as it caused the paint to fade, is this still true or is there a better way using a pressure washer on vehicle
Perfectly fine to use a pressure washer, we all do. I use a 40 degree tip. Don’t use one more focused than that, and don’t get it to close to the paint. If you have any spots where paint is peeling avoid using a pressure washer.

 

Also, don’t spend a bunch of money on a foam cannon. A 20 dollar Amazon cannon is just as good as an expensive one.

 

Thank you for the reply and advise, I have already brought tools to try:
Swift Premium Foam Cannon for Pressure Washer
YAMATIC Super Flexible Pressure Washer Hose 50FT
Tool Daily Short Pressure Washer Gun with Foam Cannon / I brought this for the wand to use on the swift cannon also the tips
Chemical Guys CWS_110_64 Honeydew Snow Foam

 

X2


IronX is not a product used regularly. Make sure you apply a sealer/wax or coating afterwards to protect the surface. Decon will destroy any protective products they have been applied before treatment

 

X2 again.

 

Good choice on the foam. It’s one of very few CG products I use.

 

When you use the clay bar or mitt do you go in a circle motion, back and forth or up and down also will there
be swirl or scratch marks?

 

Clay will leave some swirl in the paint no matter what. A Polish afterward is recommended.

Tip
If you don’t see a ton of Purple contamination while using IronX you probably don’t need to clay.

 

Thank ya'll for the advice and tips

 

What’s the plan for protection?

 

I have not got that far moment in deciding, I like the ceramic idea but its costly

 

Underdog pro will run ya around $100.

Griots 3-1 ceramic spray is a great product and it’s around $20 a bottle and you will get at least two uses. Lasts around 6 months.

 

Just back and forth, using a detail spray as lube. Depending on the color of the paint and how carefully you do it, marks aren’t generally noticeable. You can get great results with just doing the IronX if you’re worried about it.

 

What color is your truck?

 

Its Magnetic Gray Metallic / Nightshade Special Edition

 

@T-Rex266, the re-foam then clay sounds like a good idea

 

I generally recommend this sealant for MGM. I don’t know what it is about it, and it may just be my perception, but for some reason I think it makes that color look better than anything else I’ve used. It’s not as easy to apply as a spray sealant, but it lasts as long as anything short of a ceramic (which in my opinion comes with caveats anyway).

https://www.amazon.com/Jescar-Power...qid=1692105329&sprefix=Jescar+,aps,402&sr=8-1

 

@Prostar 190

 

What's your recommendation applying Jescar Power Lock Polymer, after
drying.
this is the way I normally wash:
1) Wash
2) Apply Iron X
3) Rinse
4) Wash again
5) I apply Hydro2
6) Dry
7) Apply Sealant (Beadmaker)

 

Avoid claybar. Use a synthetic decon towel instead, AND use ironx (or any iron remover) as a “clay” lube. Two birds, one stone.

if you have time watch some older YouTube videos with Yvan Lecroix when he was with optimum polymer. Also watch Diydetail YouTube videos. Yvan and Nick now have their own product company (Diydetail). Tons, and tons, and tons of extremely useful information.

ceramic coating is the way to go, and Yvans techniques save ALOT of time. Highly recommended

 

Hydro2 is a Silica-based, spray on/rinse off sealant...not really designed for long term protection. Beadmaker is a polymer-based, spray on/wipe off sealant.....which also does not provide long term protection. I've used it a lot, and it does leave the surface very slick....maybe the slickest product I've used. Both products are meant to extend the life of what is underneath.

Let's talk about your wash process. Unless you live in an area prone to tons of fallout, Iron-X is not necessary every time you wash. I typically only use it when doing a full decontamination......chemical (iron/fallout remover) and mechanical (clay bar/mitt)....prior to a full detail. These would be good steps to follow prior to applying a product like Jescar Ultra Lock Plus or Power Lock. Ideally, a light polish at the least should be done to clear up any micro-marring from the clay process. At this point, some choose to do a panel wipe to remove any leftover oils from polishing to provide a clean surface for your sealant.

Either Ultra Lock Plus or Power Lock will give you 6 months of protection.....especially after proper maintenance washes, which would be much simpler than your process. I'm no chemist, but I'm a believer in toppers that match what's underneath. Top Power Lock with Beadmaker......top Ultra Lock plus with a product like Hydro2, or Gyeon Ceramic Detailer or Sonax Ultra Slick Ceramic Detailer.

 

I respectfully submit that this is bad advice. Whether you use a clay bar or a clay mitt, you need a clay lube with sufficient lubricity. Iron/fallout removers simply do not provide that, and you run a more significant risk of introducing more marring during the clay process. The only combination product that I've used, which combines a clay lube and iron remover, is DoDo Juice Supernatural Ferro Lube, which I do not believe you can get anymore in the U.S..

I've seen detailers wash a vehicle, then hit it with an iron remover, then foam it, and use the foam as the clay lube (using clay mitts). Mike Philips actually had a post on the AutoGeek forum showing this process. It should be noted that they had already planned on polishing the vehicle after decontamination. There is a link below to that post.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...-approach-washing-car.html?highlight=approach

 

perhaps I should clarify.

wash car with rinsless wash of your choice. While still wet, spray iron remover on your clay towel, and panel. Then you mechanically and chemically decontaminate at the same time. Rinse car. Dry and apply sealant/wax. Panel wipe if instaling ceramic coating.

this techniques is from Yvan lecroix. An industry legend.

 

Your clarification makes a lot more sense. Using this process, the lubricity is being provided by the rinseless wash product he is using...essentially becomes the clay lube. The key here is "while still wet"....which means with the rinseless product still on the surface.

As far as Yvan being a 'legend'......that is your opinion and you are welcome to it.

 

the Diydetail iron,remover also acts as a lubricant. Personally I’ve used adams, and p&s iron remover as a “clay” lube (with onr rinseless) and it works very well, but more importantly saves a bunch of time.

sounds like your not an Yvan fan?

 

Yvan is very good at selling products. I've yet to see him do any legitimate detailing.