Bilstein 5100 with Torch add-a-leaf?

Can also confirm that recall kit does not include castle nuts!

 

Interesting, I had to go buy a replacement UBJ castle nut yesterday after failing to get my new UCA and CO in, and I saw some sites showing UBJ and LBJ castle nut was the same (14 mm 1.5 pitch). You can probably get away with re-using what you've got if the nut is intact. The p/n I picked up at the dealership was 90171-A0001 and it ran me $3. Expensive nut, but ...

 

Were you able to get the coilovers installed? I wasn't sure what got finished and what didn't.

 

I backed out. Installing the CO is a snap, that's a 20min job per side. I didn't want to install the CO if I didn't get in the uppers ... I figured, what's the point? I couldn't imagine what I'd have gained. Install the CO, so I can get aligned, only to install the UCA, then get aligned again? Meh.

One and done. It's the way to go.

 

Finished the front end today and put it back on the ground. Still need a couple of small brake lines for the front, but I can put those one with the wheels on. Now I have to start on the rear. Will start searching the forum for leaf spring info. It seems my nuts on top of the springs are basically disintegrated??? Anyone here use Dayton springs?

 

Hello Everyone. It appears the nut is not gone, rather it is recessed in the top spring a bit. The original owner actually has the air-ride system which is why I thought these springs looked so good. I don't think too much was asked of them. When they put in the air-ride they took out the bump stop, which I think allowed more water and dirt to get in the mix. Is the nut supposed to be recessed?

Here's one more thing.................I made a freaking dumb dumb move. I put the rear lower control arm bolts on without the washers that come with the bolts, so the bolt head is directly in contact with the cam-sleeve washer. I already know the answer, but do I need to unfasten the rack and pinion again to put those washers on? ug

 

To date, flipping back thru this thread, I haven't seen a single picture of anything you're dealing with. A picture is worth a thousand words (and a word ain't worth a dime!), it'd really really help in this case. Is there a reason you're not giving us anything to work with while asking for advice?

Can you please show us some pictures of what you're dealing with so we can more effectively help you? We like pics, like, a lot. But seriously, expecting us to help you blindly is insanity.

 

I thought we saved the pictures until it was over and everything worked!

 

I will try to get a photo of the leaf spring and the LCA.

 

I know you're kidding, but ...

I'm no stranger to air ride. My whole life, most of my vehicles (cars, trucks, many vintage/classic, lots of imports) were either bagged, dropped, or with some kind of sport suspension. I'm literally thinking back over every install I've done and seen, even the oddball shit like RideTech ShockWaves, and I can't think of a setup that uses a bag, but also has a spring, and a recessed nut. I'm wondering if this may just be something lost in translation, terminology, something. Only reason I'm asking. I don't want to give you bad advice, then have you come back here pissed off, y'know?

 

Completely understand. Pics I took aren't very good, but I think I figured it out. It looks like maybe the plate that the bump stop was on is still on the spring. It makes it look recessed, but it's not. I'll know for sure tomorrow when it stops raining and I can get back at it.
The bolts I just panicked on thinking I did something wrong, but I didn't. I'm just convinced I can't do anything right the first time.
I'll attach a link to a photo that I am currently calling the graveyard

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UxBtctXgT7mqQhmC7

 

Bro, at least you got your balljoints out based on that carnage pile pic. I had fuckall of a time trying to get mine out.

If those are OEM axles, You may want to clean them up and save them for a core. You can get OEM rebuilds for as little as $125-150/ea from Toyota if you have a structurally decent core.

FYI: If you're on a web browser, you can drag-and-drop pics into the chat/reply box and it should auto-upload into your post OR tap the 'Upload a File' button if you want the more clickety-click version. Mobile, you have to click the 'Upload a File' button. That button is near the bottom right corner of the text input box (looks like your first reply had an issue with the pic). Using that feature will ensure the pic stays intact, and may give you a little more anonymity/privacy.

 

Dude,
I didn't even tell you the story on that. I bought Moog, "Guaranteed to Fit" upper ball joints. Checked the part number. It was right. Installed them after pressing out the old ones and pressing in the new ones which nearly killed me. Turned the steering wheel back and forth. Pop, pop, pop. Wrong ball joints!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just cut the bolt head off of the Moogs and pressed it out from the top. Freedom UCA's have the ball joint integrated. Another story on this journey!

 

Goddamnit. I can't believe I didn't think about cutting my UBJ spindle off and pressing out this weekend, that would've been so much f'n easier. This is why you don't wrench while you're sick! WTF. It would've been so much easier and less time consuming.

Curious, what press kit tool were you using when you popped out your uppers? I reached out to a popular local overlanding shop here on Monday I was looking to buy parts from just for S&G to see what they'd want to install my CO + UCA just so someone else could deal with it. I was expecting maybe $500, $600 for uppers and coilovers. Nope. $2,025. Say what? I guess they're charging $405/hr for 5hr labor. I still may let them install tires and align but I'm, like, Nah. I think I'd rather fight with my UBJs for 5 hours than pay extortion rates on labor.

 

I used:

AURELIO TECH 21PCs Ball Joint Press Kit & U Joint Removal Tool with 4x4 Adapters, for Most 2WD and 4WD Cars and Light Trucks

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B082SKDQMJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I just used to open end to press it out and shorten the whole thing. It was still tight.

 

Ended up doing a whole whack more, but the alignment is done and with a new serpentine belt it drives and sounds awesome. Ebrake cable broke when I tried to adjust it, but I replaced the bell cranks and the replacement cable will be in soon. Who needs an ebrake anyway???? Here's a link to a couple quick photos I took:
https://albums.memento.com/2005tundra

 

What ended up happening with all this?

 

Gearing up for round 2. Eisenhower dollar in there for scale. I figure it was time to update my 18-20 year old kit from HF. Probably overpaid, but Astro has solid tools with good customer service, and I got it at a discount so only paid about 40% more than most of the PRC clones on scAmazon. I'm determined to do this shit on my own, I've never let a BJ get the better of me. I'll cut the bastard out if I gotta.

Dunno when I'll get to it. Got a CT scan w/contrast tomorrow. Doc to review on Monday. Get to find out whether I've got the big 'C' or not. Dealing with mother-in-law turning 75 this weekend so all bets are off for working on the truck. Maybe the weekend after that, assuming no bad news.

​

 

How did your results come out? Been thinking about you and hoping it was good news.
In far less important things, I have a question. What would you suspect is the main reason for my HORRIBLE gas mileage? It seems to have just come on. I think I found a small exhaust leak, unfortunately near the intake manifold. Any other ideas? No codes, but could be O2's. I ordered spark plugs too just in case. Probably the exhaust leak?

 

What do you consider horrible? In-town driving, I average 11.5 - 12.5 mpg with the same 4.7L with 5spd auto and 4WD. 2WD seem to eek out closer to 13.5-14.5 in the city.

Cleaning the MAF using CRC MAF cleaner following pretty standard process (if unfamiliar I can share) bumped me from the upper 11s into the solid 12s several months back. No change in driving style.

And on suspension, I'm hoping to go for a 2nd attempt during next 3-day weekend (Labor Day). If I can't manage to get the UBJ out this time with the new press, I'll install the CO and extended links, see where I stand on height, consider whether I need AAL or not, and book someone else to fight with the LBJ. I just really, really hate letting other people touch my vehicles.

 

2004 tundra double cab sr5 2x4 v8 4.7 bilstien 5100's all around and torch add a leaf felt like bilstien gave no rear lift but with torch aal added 2.5" - 3" or something, it's alot. Waiting on sumo knock offs, until I decide between different leaf packs or shackles. I have some weight and camper shell on or it would be worse. Things I've learned the hard way, #1 buying the expensive stuff you don't want to pay for will be cheaper then bunch of cheaper options that your not going to like adding mad $ on top of 1st expensive part you end up with in the end. #2 given the lbj issues on the truck already I'd try to avoid wheel spacers ,285's ,#3 plan on 2" lift or $10000 lift, but I'm probably being over careful

 

Careful, 5100s people usually put on the rear are only rated for 0"-1" lift. I ended up with 1½" or so and haven't had issues, but not sure if they could handle double that.

 

FYI All that means is that your droop may be limited by the shock length. Driving around town or when not at extreme angles will be fine.