Can't Align Due to Lift

Bought a 2015 SR5 Tundra last July. When I bought it I noticed it had a small (2 - 2.5 in) lift which I was a little leary about but thought it look good. Truck practically had brand new Michellin AT2 tires at the time. Fast forward 6 months - started to notice very visible wear on the side edge of the two front tires. Had the tires rotated and started to again notice the same wear on the rotated tires. At first I thought it was tire pressure because one of the sensors had gone out and I was hand checking tire pressure each week. Quickly ruled out low tire pressure. Next thought was alignment. By this time, all the tires had worn pretty bad. Took it to the dealership for new tires and to replace sensor and do an alignment. Also asked them to look at tie rods, ball joints, etc. just to make sure.

After installing tires and 2 new sensors, the service rep came back and told me that the alignment on the caster couldn't be done because of a level kit that had been installed on the struts and was causing the uneven tire wear. The options were to a) uninstall levelling kit, b) new Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts, or c) after-market control arms that could be adjusted.

Told them I would think about it and get back (options b) and c) would run around $1200). Decided to uninstall the levelling kit and scheduled an appointment with a local shop to do the work (I had paid for a full alignment at the dealership and they told me they would do one free of charge if I brought it back within a certain time). When talking to the local shop they asked if it was lifted in the rear - I told them 'no' because the dealership said it was just a level. I had always thought that it look lifted in the rear so, after the phone call I checked and it definitely looks like a 2 - 2.5 inch lift in the rear using after-market leaf springs (APM brand - pretty sure not factory). I can't see any type of lift kit so I'm assuming that it's the leaf springs.

So, not sure what to do. Trying to fix this with as little damage to the pocket book as possible. I would like to take the entire lift off and install the factory leaf springs but I'm thinking that will be around $2000 - $2500 (The Toyota leaf springs are around $800 each). Or, are less expensive after-market leaf springs a good idea? Or, is it possible to fix the lift on the front end? Another option are the Bilstein 5100 struts but I'm not sure if I'll still be having the same issue after installing those. Would having the front lift removed and leaving the existing after-market leaf springs cause even more issues? Just not sure what to do and any help is appreciated.

 

Shoot us some pics of the lift components.

 

Have pics of the leveling kit in the front? My alignment shop, just charges guys with a lift a bit extra for the alignment as its more work to get it done.

Lots of folks running around on here with a small lift, and getting the trucks aligned.

 

Here are pics of both the front and rear lift:

 

Sounds like the alignment tech didn't know what he was doing. If it's only a 2" lift, you definitely have enough adjustment to set it all right. Incorrect caster wouldn't set off uneven tire wear either. Camber and toe is what does that.

Also, aftermarket arms start at $600.
https://exitoffroad.com/product/dirt-king-tubular-ball-joint-ucas-for-tundra-2nd-gen/

 

That looks more like a 3" lift up front. If the thickness of it measures 1.5", then it's a 3" lift, which would be too much without aftermarket UCA's

 

I thought the same thing. Pretty much every truck I see has some sort of lift so I was a bit confused when the told me this.

 

Thanks for the info. Would having the 3" lift replace with a 2" solve the issue? Also, would it cause problems with the lift in the rear as I'm assuming it's about the same? (measurement from middle of axel to bottom of wheel well is ~25 1/2 in.)

 

Also looks like a fairly stock rear spring, I don't think it is OEM, but it looks like close to stock height from those pictures. It appears to be a coachbuilder shackle that is giving you the rear lift. Again should not affect your alignment though

 

Those rear leafs are an OEM replacement 3/1 which should give a similar ride height to the factory leaf springs.

Edit: good eye on the coach builder shackle. Could have some lift there depending on which one is back there.

 

The rear bumpstops have been cut off with a saw. Probably used to have air bags

you can tell which lift shackle you have by measuring it. My plus 1 is 7 inches long

 

Ah, ok - yeah, didn't think about that. They are about 9".

 

I noticed that as well - what would be the reason for cutting those?

 

I’m

Installing air bag helper springs

 

You can remove the rear coachbuilder shackles and put the factory ones in. I'm sure there are plenty of people here that have some for sale that they took off or even free. And then you can sell the coachbuilder shackles to someone that wants to lift the rear.

 

Ah, ok.

 

This might be my best option. Probably just have them take it the entire lift off. Thanks for all the replies. Really helped me figure this out - especially figuring out the leaf springs I have are stock height.

 

Were those 2 quarter inch or eighth inch shims on top of the lift? Both sides the same or does one side have more shims? Whats the height of the spacer without the shims and with?

I hear people say they add a bit on the drivers side for the lean.

Id think, from what i read here, pulling that lift, putting stock shackles on back, and 5100s on second setting(? i think) should get you right fairly inexpensively. But you would be back at stock height with only a level for the front to remove the stock rake. Then you have components you can sell off, or save and work with from there, to get to the point of lift you want to be at, in your time and budget, correctly.

Or add some UCAs.

 

Measured and they are 2, quarter inch shims. Both sides have same number of shims. The height of the spacer is 1.75". Height with the shims is 2.25".

Yeah, I'm thinking that will probably work out the best for the moment. Didn't know the aftermarket UCAs ran so much.

 

Does it have bigger tires? You could put a smaller spacer in there, unless it has plus 3 shackles

 

If the shocks are shot, just do a 5100 all round and add a sumo spring for bump stop

 

What's the rear axle to fender height? That should give you an idea how much the rear lifted from the shackles

 

Sounds like lazy or unskilled tech thats just a button pusher trying to get green lights on his display. Maybe not bit I've seen enough that are.
Unless cams are seized or tierods are maxed out, it can be aligned. You just may not like the handling and it won't be "in spec". Some shops don't like letting you drive away out of spec.

I would bet that setting camber to nearish zero and a very slight toe in will alleviate the tire wear but steering might feel light and twitchy and truck could feel a bit like it wanders in the lane if resulting caster is too low. Camber and caster are played off one another. You'll lose one to gain the other at some point.

 

This. Looks like spacers on top of spacers.

 

Rule of thumb is to double the amount of spacer measurement for lift amount. That would be over 4 inch lift with spacers. You will either need UCA's or remove that lift and put in quality one in the near future.

 

With the items you have installed there shouldn't be any trouble with alignment correction. Did your alignment tech give you a print out by chance?

Would you be able to snap a pic of the cam bolts on the lower control arms? this will show how much adjustment is available. Getting rid of the leveling space up front would be a great idea in exchange for the Bilstein 5100's. much better ride as well. If you have a few mins feel free to give me a call and we'll go over in better detail. David 801.635.4872

 

@tony93 where are you measureing the spacer from? The bottom of the gray nuts to where it mounts?

 

I'm probably measuring wrong. Here is an image of the measurements:


From the middle of the rear hub to the wheel well is ~25.5". From the middle of the front hub to the wheel well is ~24.5".

 

Here are a few photos of the bolts on both the lower and upper control arms as well as the alignment print out:

 

its that 23 degrees of toe killing your tires...