Advice on speakers

Ok guys I need a little help here 2019 crew max non jbl. Already replaced head unit with pioneer dmh8600nex ... after I got it all dialed in it is a complete night and day with the factory speakers. So here is my dilemma I wanna replace the door speakers front and rear I don't really wanna run an amp and I'm not sure about components vs coax if I'm even using the right termanology ! So will I notice a big difference. Putting in just a set of nice replacements or is going to be one of those diminishing returns type thing where I'm not gonna notice much next is what do y'all recommend ? And why do I keep seeing through Crutchfield the notice that says if your gonna run 4ohm speakers in it might run at a lower volume ? Don't know what that means so please help I'm very ignorant when it comes to 12 volt stuff .... thanks

 

If you're not going to run an amp, the new HU isn't powerful enough to make any improvement over factory speakers. It's powering the speakers at around 20W RMS, with a peak of 40W or 50W peak. Most aftermarket speakers need 50W RMS with a peak of 100W or so.

 

Ok well guess I need to figure out what I should do here ....thank you for the help

 

If you are happy with just changing the head-unit out just leave it at that.

If you want to change out the speakers I do agree with adding external amplifiers.

The non JBL factory stereo is simple to bypass.
You can add a 5 channel amp. Replace all the door speakers in a day.
Add a sub down the road if you want.

To answer your original question I would use the Sony xs-162es
On sale at crutchfield for $298
At this price it will be hard to beat this component setup, put the tweeter in the dash location.

run a set of Sony x7-160es in the rear doors

Try to run the speakers off of the headunit power first, see how they sound. You can add an amp later if you feel the need to. A lot of 5 channel amps out there for around $200


There are several videos on YouTube that shows how to do a complete stereo replacement on the tundra. It is not hard.

 

Not all of what you said is entirely accurate.
While it's true that mid-level ($300-$500) and higher end ($500- multiple thousands of dollar) component sets will not have enough power from an aftermarket head unit alone, there are are plenty of lower-end and mid-range component and coaxial sets with a high efficiency rating, that will absolutely sound better than OEM speakers, and will receive plenty of power from the aftermarket head unit. Would an amp help? Sure, but it's not 100% necessary.

To the OP, if you're going to run aftermarket speakers off your aftermarket head unit, you need to buy 4ohm speakers.

What you're referencing from Crutchfield, is if you're replacing the speakers while using the stock head unit. Most automobile manufacturers use 2 ohm speakers in their cars.

 

It's been a while since I have paid any attention to them, but Focal had plug and play speakers as a direct replacement. I've heard that they sound alot better than OEM, but I don't know what ohms they are.

 

Thanks guys for any and all help 12v stuff is confusing to me, and you all help out a lot and give me some things to think about!

 

I know you don't want to run an amp, but I HIGHLY suggest the Kicker Key200.4 amp. Using the amp bypass harness from AutoHarnessHouse you can set it up to run the factory speakers or upgrade as you please. It has a built in DSP and auto EQ using a mic for setup. The only question mark I have is how it will play with the dash speakers since they're powered directly by the head unit.

Alternatively, you can try to bypass the factory amp first and see how your door speakers sound (as I believe you're still using your factory amp)

I get that. I was pointing out that the stock speakers aren't as bad as people make them out to be, especially compared to the higher efficiency aftermarket options. Perhaps coaxials will help brighten up the audio (as the dash location isn't that ideal for many tweeters), but the marginal improvement certainly leaves a lot to be desired when shelling out that cash on high efficiency speakers.

Audio upgrades really benefit from the buy once cry once mantra. OP did it right with the HU upgrade. Next step would be to bypass the stock amp with the harness and see how they like the sound with the HU powering the stock speakers. After that, the next should be (in terms of bang for the buck) amp and speakers.

 

I'm always of the mind set that , "the bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten" so I'll def spend the money I feel like I just need an education first! You guys are def helping

 

Gin
I agree with spending a little extra on things if it is worth it.

I have done a lot of research on car audio over the last few years. I have installed a few above average systems.
on speakers. A $300 set of speakers will sound in most cases way better than a $100 set.
A $500 set will sound better than a $300 set but not that big of a gap.
A $1,000 set of speakers will sound better that the $500 set but not as much as a you would think.
I do not see the need to spend over $1,000 for a good set of speakers. Beyond that we are getting to the point of very low return on extra money spent.

Here is my setup
JVC z1000W Head unit $1,249
Stereo Integrity TM65mkIV 6.5 inch $399
Stereo Integrity M3Carbon 3.5 inch $279
Stereo integrity mkII tweeter $199
Zapco DSP z8 $500
amp 1 Sony xm-gs4 $199 on sale
amp 2 Sony xm-gs4 $199 on sale
amp 3 Sony xm-gs100 $199 on sale
subs rockford foagate p2 8 inch $240 for the pair

test gear and some of the cost on the install, A proper installation will cost more than people think.
Audiofrog UMI-1 $199 RTA Tunning microphone.
LM 2020 oscilloscope $80 test for distortion
had a local shop build the sub box $300 I could have done myself, just did not want to.
rockford foagate PLC-u universal level control knob $65
fuse distribution blocks, fuse blocks $35
stinger 8000 series rca cables $265
4 gauge ofc wire $75
8 gauge wire $40
ofc speaker wire $45

there are several other things on the list that also add up, Heat Shrink, Tesa tape, copper battery terminals, anl fuses, materials to build amp and dsp racks under the seats, wire ferrules,
I have easy over $1,100 on just the equipment to get everything put in.






I do not need rear speakers. No one rides in the back of the crewmax.