2008 Tunda Transmission

2008 Tundra D-Cab 4X4, 5.7, AT, Towing Package
317k miles

Last October every dash warning light lit up and flashed. The Toyota Dealer using a diagnostic scanner said it indicated a imitate transmission failure. That was 9 months and over 4k miles ago. Recently the dash panel once again lit up. My home dealer confirmed the diagnosis. I've had a difficult time locating a replacement 2008 transmission. I've found a 2010 transmission from the same vehicle series, model, engine, etc. QUESTION: Will the 2010 retrofit to the 2008.

 

Someone confirm, but any 07-21 6 speed 4wd trans should work. I'm not aware of any differences between any of the years---so to answer your question, yes it should work.

 

Thank you. Looking forward to other positive responses.

D-Cab

 

I can't answer your question but when mine played silly beggars back at the beginning of this year it was cheaper to have it stripped down, valve body drilled out, all worn parts replaced and rebuilt than buying a used unit with upwards of 150k and an unknown pedigree. Have you looked at going down that route?

To aid you in your search check to see if you have a white label with lots of specs on it, located on your driver's door pillar. If you have look in bottom left corner after A/TM you should find the type of transmission you have - it's probably an AB60F or an A750F but mine says A760E and was still a slightly different model from that, presumably as mine was built in the middle of a changeover year and it got updated parts or older stock depending on who got their hands on what when they were building it. If you know what you have it should make finding a replacement easier.

Edit: mine's a 2wd hence the different numbers. I think E's refer to 2wd, F's to 4wd, 50 denotes a 5 speed, 60 a six speed etc.

 

I'm going to consider all option, including your suggestion. Who did you use to accomplish your rebuild?
Thank you!
D-Cab

 

Not to start circling like a buzzard but if and when you do swap out your transmission, can I buy the tailhousing and output shaft from your bad one?

 

An old school independent chap in the middle of nowhere, specializes in transmissions but works on anything, tractors included. I'm in the lower part of Upstate SC and the truck was out of commission for longer than I'd expect a franchise like AAMCO to take so I did buy a beater in order to keep working. $3k was the final bill.

I'm not a fan of dealerships or franchise 'sell your mother to pay for crap' type stores but tend to find older mechanics who work for themselves and come highly recommended by the locals. Asking around is the best bet, if you can give some idea of your whereabouts someone on here might be able to point you in the right direction - if you just so happen to be in the Charlotte, NC, Columbia, SC, Greenville, SC triangle I'll give you his details. Obviously we aren't asking for an address but a rough pointer such as which corner of which state might help.

 

Jacksonville, FL.

I'm not without other transportation. Since I have a 2008 2 wheel drive twin to the 4x4. Luke isaid before the 4x4 still drive well, shift patterns good, no signs of a problem other than the periodic warns indicators flashing in the instrument cluster.

 

I may have missed something here, but why (specifically) is the dealer telling you the trans is going to fail? In other words, what component or situation did they identify as being a catastrophic failure???

What codes are being thrown?? The truck entering limp mode (which is what you experienced when your dash lit up like a Christmas tree) would also have one or more codes being thrown in that situation. Were you given that information or is it anywhere on your paperwork? If not, can you put an OBD scanner on it (and test 'all systems' not just the CIL) and report back w/that info. If you don't have a reader and can swing by most auto parts stores, they'll either scan it for you or allow you to use one. Once you have the codes that are related to why the truck is entering limp mode, you'll have more info to go off of, and ultimately we can maybe point you in a direction that's not as drastic as replacing an entire trans... *** not saying that definitely isn't happening or what's needed, but the info you put out is relatively limited, and we may be able to save you some $$$

I've heard that some of the dealerships are now turning away what could be relatively simple repairs (such as shift solenoids, etc.) and recommending complete replacement. Basically, won't do anything to the trans that requires dropping the pan...

Another option is to take it to a reputable trans shop in your area for a second opinion.

Just a couple of options and thoughts for you....

 

P0761 shift solenoid performance or stuck off p2714 pressure control solenoid performance or stuck

This is the description from the last scanner reading.

 

I'd get it to a good transmission shop that's comfortable working on these trans. Generally, they'll test the electrical connection on the outside of the trans to verify it's not having issues or corrosion from water being trapped in there, etc.. From there they'll generally drop the pan and can then test the functionality of the solenoids (there are several in the transmission valve body). The follow pics will give you some idea of what it looks like in there...






Those codes could indicate faulty (needing replacement) solenoids, corrosion of a connector that may just need a simple clean, clogged fluid passages that just need to be cleaned, transmission pump or valve body.... All of which are much cheaper than installing a new transmission, and a fairly easy fix for an experienced tech. It's rare that these transmissions fail on the mechanical side requiring a full trans swap; it's usually within the valve body and electronics.

If you go this route, I'd recommend OE only electrical parts and except to pay about $150-$300 per solenoid, etc... You'll also be paying for new service kit, fluid and of course labor; I'd expect all in you'll probably be sitting $800-$1000 range when all is said and done... Once you're given an estimate for repair, just verify pricing of the parts that are being used w/what you can find them for online through an online Toyota parts dealer to verify you're not paying an inflated price for the parts. Generally speaking, if the shop is hitting you plus or minus 10% of what you can find the part for, I'd say that's pretty fair...