SCS RAY10S problem

So, bought a set of 4 SCS Ray10s for my ride not even 6 months ago. Have done zero offroad, no curbrub, not a blemish on them.

One day I notice one of the small stainless bead lock bolts is missing. I figured, OK, it happens, I put tape over the hole to protect the threads and I ordered a bunch of replacements from SCS.

I go to install the new replacement bolt and it just pushes right in, as if it's too small in size. Now I remove another bolt from the wheel to verify size. Size is correct. This wheel was made with a bad threaded hole and is why I lost the original bolt to begin with.

So now what? Any tricks I can try to just get the bolt to stay in place? Like JB Weld or something?

I sincerely hope this isn't going to be an ongoing issue with these wheels. I checked all the others and they all seem fine and tight.

Any ideas?

 

Are you actually using it for bead lock? If not, just do a drop of JB Weld (enough to hold it but still allow it to be removed in the future).
That is my 2 cents.

 

No, they are not actual bead locks, looks only.

That's what I was thinking just a bit of JB Weld. It will never have to be removed in the future, so I don't care if it's permanent.

 

For what you paid for those I would probably hit up SCS and just see what they have to say about it, maybe there is a known issue with a batch or something.

@SCSPerformance

 

This is where SCS should send you a replacement and allow you to have a free reject for the spare.

 

I just recently purchased a set of Ray10s and I hope my set don't have this issue. Reach out to SCS to further advise and keep us posted. I'll be watching this thread.

 

Thank you all.

I reached out to SCS and will let you know the outcome.

 

Got my reply from SCS...

" Here's one solution you can try:

Make sure the new SS M6x8 bolt is clean from grease/oil residue.

Carefully scuff any paint inside the hole if there's any.

Clean out the opening from grease/oil residues.

Bare aluminum is what you want to see inside the small opening.

Make sure everything is all clean and dry.

Laying the wheel flat to the ground is best.

Place a tiny dab of this Permatex Liquid Metal Filler inside the hole.

Do another tiny dab on the SS bolt and screw onto the wheel.

Leave it alone for ~4 hrs: 24hrs is fully cured.



Let me know how it turns out."

Im fine with this if it works but I have my doubts as the bolt doesn't really screw into the threads, it more or less just slides in.

I'll keep you posted how I make out when I get around to it.

NOTE to self..No more fake beadlock wheels for me!

 

Quick crazy story. Bout 25 yrs ago I was living in an apartment with my wife and we had an electric stove with the old school coils. I had a big heavy 6qt stainless steel pot with about a 3/8" thick bottom full of spaghetti sauce simmering. Out of nowhere something shot up out of the pot towards the ceiling. Somehow the electric coil arced and melted a 1/4 hole right through the bottom of the pot and sent the slag towards the ceiling. Wasn't sure exactly what the hell caused it, but I liked my pot and still have it and use it. It was repaired using the exact Permatex liquid metal you have described.

 

Thank you for that! I was still trying to decide what's best, JB Weld, Permatex Cold Weld, or the metal filler.

I'll try the Perma Metal Filler... worked for you, should work for me. This isn't exactly a heavy duty item and it has no stress on it. Should work!

 

Had the same wheels before on my GX and no issues, but that lip man does nothing but hold mud and water after a bath, never ever again lol. Live and learn hahaha

 

Agree about the lip.

Hopefully this is just a one time oddity with just this wheel and as usual, I'm the lucky one who got it.

 

Ha! Right! you got the lucky one with a wobble and detach.

 

Yeah, one member posted about this issue in the main SCS Ray10 thread. I thought nothing of it until I purchased my wheels and finally realized what he was talking about after it rain or washing the truck. I agree, the water puddles the wheels gather is annoying.

Edit: just checked and all bolts are there. I've had the wheels for over a month now.

 

No wobble whatsoever. The wheels actually balanced out very nicely with Coopers and run smooth and true and look fantastic . It's a great product, I just think I got that 1 in 500.

 

Wait until the water freezes in the lip, that's when the real fun begins, at about 50mph!

 

I'm running Cooper tires too! Tires balanced out with no shake or wobble. Also, they are quiet asf brand new... let's see after 25k miles but I'm happy with them so far.

Man, I live in TX so I hope not to see them days where the water spot freezes on my lips.

 

I hope you don't either brother.

 

So I just want to post a follow up on this. I did exactly as SCS recommended using Permatex Liquid Metal Filler and it seems to have done the trick. Time will tell, but so far it's solid as a rock and I'm satisfied.

Thank you all for all the responses!

 

Glad that worked.
another option if it does not is a helicoil kit.
They are used for stripped threads.
And given that this sounds like the threads were a little too big, it would be the permanent fix.
The other would have been to force SCS to replace the wheel.

I considered these wheels because they definitely look the Sh*t.
any comments applying to the false bead lock also applies to the Rock Warrior wheels I wound up going with on my truck.
And I still love them.