SC dyno number comparison thread

Yea but Fastlane and AZTundra both have Magnusons and both with 2.3" pulleys, same as e30. So it doesn't seem to necessarily be a Magnuson specific thing. And maybe it's just tune specific, but that still seems like a fat difference in performance.

 

That is true, some of my friends are big into diesels and they stressed that loading up the dyno and how you do it is crucial but didn't know if that applied to us, and I said I just floored it when the dude said floor it lol

 

Yea we also know dyno scaling etc is all over the map

 

I'm going to see if I can find a local spot to put this pig on the rollers for a before and after.

 

I've been thinking about this. My understanding is HP is TQxRPM (not a 1 for 1) so my guess is the blower is eating up some of the difference.

 

Dynos are so apples to oranges from one to another. Just for some more comparable numbers, here’s 2 trucks that were also run on the Xact Dyno I stole from the boosted page. I know Matt Smith had a Harrop truck he did the install on that he got 600whp on that dyno but I can’t find it.

Harrop stage 2:


Whipple: (stock pulley I believe)

 

Whoops. Got ninja'd but very much this.

 

This is the same dyno I was on. fwiw

 

Yup, I figured that was why it would be good to share.

 

Don’t the final drive gears come into at with measured torque at the wheels?

 

100% bone stock run was 295 hp, 321 tq.
Harrop stage 1 with 85mm pulley untuned was 465 hp, 454 tq.

Stage 2 with 80mm pulley, 650 injectors, HP tuned will be coming soon.

 

My bad, the one I shared above as the Whipple was just another copy of the Harrop. I put the correct graph in for the Whipple now.

 

I had the exact same thought, but from researching it sounds like they do not. It's kind of weird, the dyno displays wheel horsepower but tries to estimate ENGINE torque. This is why they input or calibrate the gearing of the whole vehicle. Otherwise your wheel torque is a super high number (for instance a stock Tundra would be ~400ft-lbf*4.3 = 1720ft-lbf @ the hub).

Additionally, @e30cabrio has stock gears as I recall and I have 5.29s. And then on top of that, higher gearing should actually be detrimental since there is more power loss due to more gear teeth needing to engage for each revolution of the tire.

 

I am mechanically stock outside the SC and motor mods.

 

Shit is dummy quick for a truck, powerful and loud. I love it. It has no issues spinning wheel with the wildpeaks.. I'm looking into getting the right size street tire for the 20 inch rims I have to fill out the tire well... then hopefully I stick more on hard accelerations...I could also put weight in the back or throw it in 4 wheel drive.

 

I was thinking this as well... the different types and calibration of these dynos are going to give different readings. For example my old STI dyno'd on an original heart break dyno, what the shop owner described it as, at 456whp and he said it's a low reading dyno... he said on another dyno he said he could see a difference of up to +50 on another type of dyno.. so I don't know how true that is personally, but I didn't have any reason to not believe him.

If we can find guys with similar setups that have been dyno'd with the same tuner and dyno we can see how consistent or not these readings are I suppose. I'm reaching out to another guy with a similar build from PS and see if he can send me a picture of his graph and hopefully he was dyno'd on the same one and not the hub dyno they also have.

 

No you are correct in your observation and bring up a good point. It could be related to how TQ is calculated/estimated on those specific dynos. They probably have some assumptions baked into their calculations that show this big discrepancy.
Keep in mind H = T x rpm/5252. Tells me HP will "always" be higher than TQ with many exceptions such as a SC load. As you point out the examples contradict themselves so something else is going on.

 

I will have to dig up my graph but mine is a 2014 DCLB with Stage 2 Harrop - 650cc injectors JBA LTH and Deeds 3 inch race exhaust - no cats. Stock intake and air filter. Stock gears with a 6 inch lift and 35" tires on 20s.

Makes 8 psi and made 512 rwhp and 540 tq on a Mustang dyno. Tuned with HP Tuners. I am at around 600 feet in elevation.

 

So after my tuner explained and answered my questions, I've come to the conclusion that there really are a lot of variables when it comes to dyno results... none the less, it's still fun comparing and collecting data and learning what does and doesn't work.

Noted from my conversation, I'm told that horsepower per pound of boost is not going to relate to anyone else unless they have the exact same drivetrain and wheel tire combo. With that being said we should include those details, if that was recommended in the initial post don't mind me. It'll definitely help with the comparison moving forward.

Lastly, I was also told that the tuner has seen a gain of 70 more horsepower from simply putting on smaller tires. This is why I'm trying to find another wheel and tire setup that reduces my tire and wheel weight from 418lbs to 250lbs or less if possible.

 

That's my understanding too. Comparing Dyno results is absolutely pointless unless it's same Dyno at a minimum, and preferably same everything else. But as you said, I still think it's very cool to compare results and modifications since it really is the only performance data we can compare besides drag times.

 

No Dragy post, noted **

Below is my buddy's Dyno, similar build but has bigger tires and he's re-geared. Included mine again for a easier comparison.

 

Some Titan 7s with SL 285/70-17 would be sub 250 easily and look good!

 

Those are really nice, gotta pay to play...I honestly have some aftermarket 20s that I was just gunna start with and weight once I get the old crap tires off of them and go from there. Depending on the width of my 20s I'm interested in the Nitto 305/50r20 120H XL NT420V(48.4lbs) or the Mickey Thompson ET Street SS P305/45R2031X12.50R20 (42lbs). Which brand is the tire you referenced?

 

We’ve got a a private message going with draggy info.

 

We will get you added

 

Thanks!

 

It looks like @Silver17 will have to add you.

 

Even more impressive that it was on a heartbreaker.

 

Oh for sure, if those are 20” OEM they are about 40lbs. The OEM alloy 18” are around 31lbs (more for the black offroad and 27 for BBS Forged). Then 17” Rock Warriors with no ring are 21lbs. FN BFD 18” about 24lbs which is great. What I have noticed for tires is that 20”/18”/17” usually all similar weights in comparable sizes which is the the result of smaller sidewalls requiring more reinforcement, thus the lightest combos always seem to include 17” rims. I think there are alot of great tires out there but the Wrangler Territory are specifically meant for low weight (questionable longevity), tall sidewalls and high horsepower (used on TRX, Raptor, etc). Nokians, like the new Outpost or Coopers or Toyo 3s are also AT design but low weight. I went with 60ish lb duratracs and studded Nokian 315/70r17 with Rock Warriors and they weighed 82lbs mounted to try and stay near stock weight. How much these choices impact HP/drag times is hard to say though.

 

22" TRD Forged wheels are 36lbs, fyi