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2004 limited access cab compass and temp not working

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Stickman, Apr 30, 2023.

  1. Apr 30, 2023 at 2:21 PM
    #1
    Stickman

    Stickman [OP] New Member

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    So recently, I had some bodywork done. They screwed my electrical up. I got it fixed but now the compass and temperature isn’t working in the mirror. I checked all the fuses they look to be good. I’m wondering what my next move is? You think the electrical display got fried in the mirror? Any help would be greatly appreciated

    4520B123-493B-4183-A2DB-4E90A02486A4.jpg
     
  2. Apr 30, 2023 at 6:22 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Well, considering I don't think your truck came with that mirror OEM, I'm not sure what to tell you. That was something you could buy as a port, and it would have a flat 6-pin connector on the rear for some models, but to my knowledge, only the Double Cabs came with an auto-dimming rearview option, but I haven't seen the same in AC or RC trucks, and never with a compass.

    My first thought is they may've used a welder or something that would blow a fuse. I assume you checked the fuse, but given that thing probably wasn't OEM, I'd also assume a previous owner installed it, so I'd be digging on how it's wired up.

    First thing I would do is check for any other item in the cab that's not working - dash lights, map light, roof light, door lights, you get the idea.

    Next I'd pop off the overhead console/sunglass holder to see if they teed into the overhead light I mean, I guess if they did, your map light probably wouldn't be working, so maybe they didn't, but I'd also be looking up there in case they fused a line teeing off it.

    Next place I'd be looking is in in-cab fusebox for add-a-circuit lines, or similar, and also look behind the fuse box for any t-taps, in case it was installed using the OEM adapter kit, which has really shitty t-tap splices (please don't ever use those) to tee into a power/ground feed.

    Beyond that, not sure what to tell you.
     
  3. Apr 30, 2023 at 8:00 PM
    #3
    Stickman

    Stickman [OP] New Member

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    It was my dads truck he bought it new off the lot. I can guarantee that it’s not an aftermarket part. I looked at all the fuses in the engine and in the cab and nothing looks bad. I also looked at the overhead sunglass compartment and took it apart. Couldn’t see anything. I just don’t want to pay to have someone diagnose it. I already had to do that because my dash lights weren’t working after the bodywork was done because they use an aftermarket light. Thanks for all the ideas I’m gonna keep trying to figure this out.
     
  4. May 1, 2023 at 4:05 AM
    #4
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    As @shifty` alluded, 2004 DC's had compass, temp AND Homelink as an option not an AC according to the 04 brochure.
    As an aside, how about a pic of this truck :)

    If that mirror only has Temp and Compass it should only have 2 conductors....picture of plug end and a good clear pic of back of mirror would help also(# 20 Torx screw to remove mirror). There are at least 2 MFG's for that mirror, Magna Donnelly or Gentex.

    Having said that, couple things that would help us help you.....
    1) unplug mirror, turn key to IGN ON only and see if there is 12vdc at the plug for mirror.
    2) Or remove overhead console and check for same voltage where the conductors attach to the Overhead O8 connector.

    IF you had a DC, you would have the below connector by passenger side horn for an ambient temp sensor for the Temp portion of mirror.

    PassengerSide.jpg
     
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  5. May 1, 2023 at 10:39 AM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    And I can guarantee you there are three types of installations, two of which are done prior to sale, which you'll find clearly listed at Toyota Owner's website when you pull up the spec sheet:

    "FACTORY" items: Installed at the factory by Toyota
    "PORT" items: Added after the truck hits port, and before sale.

    You'll also find some dealers doing aftermarket non-OEM parts, which may also be called "PORT". This is true with KARR and SECURIKEY+ security systems that led to a huge upsale ($1k+) for the dealer and eventually failed, causing problems for the buyer, without adding much (or zero) actual value.

    Toyota sells a porting kit/wiring kit to adapt the mirror, which dealerships used. It involved a lot of nasty T-Taps and looked like this, so you know what you'd be looking for. It's not OEM. I hunted high and low in all of Toyota's exploded diagrams, and poring over every wiring harness, I couldn't find a 'roof harness' - which is what the specific harness that goes from behind the gauge cluster up the A-pillar, to the visors and roof is called - that had the tee-off for a factory mirror. If you happened to pop off your A-pillar trim to dig and you see a part number on your harness, I'd love to know what it is.

    A bunch of other mirror, wiring and other info is linked from here, but primarily pertains to DC trucks, not an AC/RC like yours.

    Bubba has the best next-steps anyone could offer. It'll tell us whether you've got a fault in your wiring, or if they possibly nuked the rearview. And if you can post a pic of the connector used, by popping it off the back of the mirror, we'll know if it's typical for 1st gens, i.e. a wide 7-pin connector (but possibly only 3 wires) as you would see in this pic which is the only connector Toyota used through '07 on Tundras with factory mirrors. And if you have it, it doesn't mean yours is factory installed. Dealer PORT would have it also, as you see from my Toyota OEM retrofit kit.
     
  6. May 2, 2023 at 3:35 PM
    #6
    Stickman

    Stickman [OP] New Member

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    Okay so here are a few pic I shot to give you a better idea I’m lost on what to do any help would be greatly appreciated

    D045FE36-D26B-44B2-A88D-CC30DE239240.jpg
    43BAC5EC-DF46-40C3-A2DC-E3C2C68EBAE4.jpg
    7C4D4120-9755-463B-AA55-04A4E46309A9.jpg
    F2245833-E4C9-43C9-AF83-889A350FC591.jpg
     
  7. May 2, 2023 at 3:54 PM
    #7
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    Since zooming in does not show the Mfg or model # very well on my end, mind either removing mirror to take better pic or write the Mfg/Model number to a post.
    Not convinced yet that it was an initial install either Port or Factory.

    edit....it would also be good if we could see how it's connected at the overhead as was mentioned earlier.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2023
  8. May 2, 2023 at 4:11 PM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    I'd love to see the numbers etched into the mirror on each side, it'll help track down the manufacturer and possible instructions.

    I have a sneaky suspicion the temp sensor is on two wires, and is actually pressed against the glass to measure external temp - not perfect way to manage, but it works. I suspect the temp sensor is under the keystone, behind the plastic.

    The other two wires are probably power/ground to feed the mirror's autodimming function and compass, latter of which would be integrated into the mirror housing.

    Sometimes it can be a little tough to get a good read on the raised lettering. It looks like the lettering above the light sensor on the driver's side may be a patent #. I suspect the text on the passenger side is going to be the model number, like Donnelly or Gentex, as Bubba mentioned.
     
  9. May 2, 2023 at 4:15 PM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    And it may be I'm wrong, it's possible there are 4 wires going up into the cable concealer and the one fat wrapped cable out of the mirror to the provision at the keystone, which I still think is the temp sensor portion, pulling temp at the windshield. But anyway, that knowledge won't stop you from dropping a multimeter on the pins of the harness to verify if any have power when the key is in the ON position. Which may be worthwhile. It would speak to mirror failure. It may be that both pairs have ACC or constant 12v+ and ground pairs. Or two grounds, with one ACC 12v+ and one constant 12v+, or similar.
     
  10. May 2, 2023 at 4:39 PM
    #10
    Stickman

    Stickman [OP] New Member

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    Is this better? I can take mirror off if need be.

    B06095FD-5FBC-4102-9F9E-B30CC43FEBE2.jpg
    11BB6EB4-C548-421C-87F3-3F8389E56316.jpg
     
  11. May 2, 2023 at 5:29 PM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Ok, so it's a Gentex 177. Lemme see what I can dig up on that model.
     
  12. May 2, 2023 at 5:34 PM
    #12
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    Even with the below info, it's going to be best to see how's it's wired at the Overhead Console.

    Have you looked under hood for the Temp sensor that was shown in the above pic, post # 4 ?
    The more you can provide, the easier it is for others to assist you.

    If you have a meter, check for voltage on the 2 conductors on each end of connection with key in IGN ON position. Should be 12vdc on at least 2 of the end connectors.

    Won't be same colors, but the functions are the same.
     
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  13. May 2, 2023 at 5:39 PM
    #13
    Stickman

    Stickman [OP] New Member

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    Thanks I would be stoked to get this mirror working again. Body shop screwed electrical up by putting the wrong head light on when repairing. The dash lights weren’t working and when I had the lights on at night back break lights wouldn’t Luminate. They would only come on when using break. Got all that stuff fixed now it’s just this that isn’t working.
     
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  14. May 2, 2023 at 5:42 PM
    #14
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Check @BubbaW's reply, it's where I was going too. Great minds think alike, although my brain is floundering this past week.
     

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