Where does everyone take the tundra for an alignment?

where does everyone take the tundra for an alignment? a large chain or a mom and pop?

 

It's more of the alignment techs experience....not so much the shop. The dealers alignment prices are about the same as the other shops. You always have that option.

 

The Toyota Dealer where I purchased it.

 

Southern Tire Mart. They align RVs and big rigs so I know they can deal with oversized rubber

 

Firestone lifetime as many as you want fur $189 with their $20 off coupon

 

Tires Plus, lifetime alignment, our local stores do a great job.

 

Depends on your set up; if you have lift, larger tires, or anything else that may change suspension geometry, I'd take it to a 4WD / off-road shop that has an experienced tech w/good equipment. It might cost you $50 more, but worth it... (tires are too damn expensive)

If it's stock then anyone w/decent equipment and an experienced tech can give you a good alignment, and like others have mentioned some of the chains do lifetime for a little extra if you trust their tech

 

This.

 

If you're in Southern Utah these guys are great.
https://www.mitchellsprecisionalignment.com/

 

Same as FO LO, Firestone lifetime

 

In front of my garage. Trackace for toe + FasTrax for camber. I'll get a SharkEye Falcon for proper 4WD alignment soon.

The reason for DIY alignment is:

- all shops around only do front tie rods (meh...)
- Volvo dealer's tech said front camber is fixed and he won't be doing anything. He was too young to know my platform that actually has ~1 degree of camber adjustment. I showed him which bolts he needs to turns, he went into denial.
- the best local shop does it all, but they let the car sit for a few hours. The car is equipped with self-leveling suspension, a few hours is enough for it to squat. The guy then aligns it, but in a few hundred feet the car raises and the alignment is fubar

So I decided to do alignments myself, and it works marvelous with simple tools.

 

Same here. Fort Worth

 

Me too... but I made it even simpler. You have to get the truck level regardless, or at least the front and rear on the same plane. I used a 4' level gauge, and pieces of plywood. Then for camber I used a digital magnetic angle gauge. For caster it's best to have a little more on the passenger side, and it's fine to have as much as possible, so that one is easy. For toe I eyeballed it with the rear tires.

 

Make a video and show us what you do to make it work.

 

That sounds like too much work...

 

I think the same thing about doing my own alignments

 

I learned a long time ago that it's usually less time and trouble to do things myself vs futzing around taking it to a shop. And that doesn't even include $$$. Plus I know exactly who to blame if something is wrong!

 

I take mine to an independent local commercial truck shop.

 

The Tires Plus here put my tires and then recommended an alignment. They said the truck was too big for their machine…

 

ANYONE but the DEALER !

 

I've had great "luck" with Les Schwab, but their guy at our local store is great. Just like others have said an experienced tech is probably the biggest factor.

 

4WD alignment is much simpler with solid rear axle. Pretty much it's not going anywhere, unless damaged. On my car with multilink independent rear suspension I adjust the thrust vector by trial, which works, but takes too much time.

What kills me my alignment with tools worth of under $200 works better than $200 shop alignment on a $35k alignment rig... People are not proud for the quality of their work anymore.

 

Well said vtl ! No pride in workmanship / craftsmanship is a HUGE problem !

 

Looks like need to do some research to figure out how to do this myself....any existing videos that helped anyone with their journey to figuring this out would be appreciated.

 

You should definitely search for info. Here is one: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.136/

I used a similar angle gauge, but stuck it to the brake rotor which I think is better.

I didn't worry about caster except to make it as high as possible with my stock UCAs; it isn't critical for tire wear like camber and toe. From the factory the cams on both sides were nearly identical, so I just kept that relationship (made left and right the same). I have a lift though, so set the front pivots all the way in, then adjusted the rear ones until camber was zeroed. This maximizes caster.

Toe isn't hard to eyeball. This is the last step after you've set camber and caster and tightened the cams. You use the tie rods to adjust. Sight along the side of the front tires to the rear ones. If they line up on both sides, or have a tiny toe in, you are good. This step took a lot of iteration since the steering wheel would move a little.

The cam bolts have very high torque, so you need a good long wrench and strong arms.

 

One thing that is important to remember is that once you have a good alignment, it should stay good... unless you bend metal parts, or wear bushings. If the bushings wear enough to throw off your alignment it might be time to replace them. In other words unless you have an event where high stress is evident, you shouldn't be needing alignments on a regular basis.

If you have a flat place to park, both camber and toe can be eyeballed pretty well. If that looks good, then whatever issues you might be experiencing are probably not alignment related.

Adjusting the tie rods (toe) is a lot easier than messing with the LCA cams. Toe is also the most critical for tire wear.

 

Used to take it to the dealer. Never thought they did a good job. Now my brother in law has his own shop and does them for me. Just had had new Michelin's put on with an alignment. Got 65K out of the stock Michelins so I got another set.

 

Appreciate the feedback.

Our situation is we live in a rural area about a mile down a gravel county road that is, to be generous, moderately maintained. Couple that with lots of deep pot holes on our county roads and we need regular alignments or maybe the techs just suck and I'm not properly analyzing the need.

Plus I want to learn it anyway which is just an added bonus.

 

If you are DIY oriented I think it's a good one to learn. Pretty simple and inexpensive.