Total Brake Failure (and other rusty lines)

I decided to make a new thread in case it doesn't get traction in the "what have you done..." thread.

What I need to understand is why a failure in the front half of the system caused a total failure.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1594#post-3150722

 

looks like the line rusted through maybe?
Any pics of the line cleaned off so we can get a better look at the hole/damage? Def be checking mine out soon

 

I'll post the failed line after I yank it out. I'm curious too!

 

From the few videos I've seen on older vehicles there is a separate proportioning valve that controls front to back separation. Not sure how the tundra is setup.

 

Buddy our trucks will GO forever and you expect them to stop forever, too? Don’t be greedy.

 

OK, this is the line that failed (although the other line was not far behind). It runs from the ABS pump to the 90 degree connector.

I think my summer project will be to inspect every inch of brake line, and replace anything that's even remotely sketchy!

 

Still fishin' for ideas...

What I need to understand is why a failure in the front half of the system caused a total failure.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1594#post-3150722

 

Is it possible that you've only had half a working system for a while now? The front brakes do (I believe) 70% of the braking. You might not have noticed when the rears failed.

 

Good idea...but, no. The rears have been fine, in fact I used the ebrake to get home. There is still fluid at the rears, and no sign of leakage. A leak in the front system (even assuming a total fluid loss) should not affect the the rear system, which is (supposed to be) physically separated at the master cylinder. All I can assume is that the MC is bad too. I'm hoping someone pops up who has had a similar experience.

It could also be the LSPV, frozen in such a way that 100% of the fluid is diverted to the fronts, but I'm not yet convinced.

I just found another thread seemingly of my exact problem:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/my-brakes-went-out-trying-to-understand-what-exactly-happened.88729/

 

If that one let go, the ones for the back lines need to be checked very closely. They usually go first or are right behind that one

 

Well, there’s your problem. The lines aren’t completely coated in vinyl exposing them to corrosion. Strange that mine are yet I don’t have ABS.

 

Yay! I have lots of shiny new brake parts now. The problem should be solved (for now), at least for this corner. Hopefully I can check/replace the other corners at a more leisurely pace...

 

How’s the fuel line in that area where it joins two sections over the inner left fender? That’s where mine rotted through.

 

Thats no mystery. Read the sticky on brakes. Any brake failure will take them all out.

 

It's kinda sketchy...I may not be able to grab a pic for a few days. Were you able to buy parts, or did you have to improvise?

 

The hose going to the fuel filter was replaced but the shop refused to bypass the fitting on the front one to the fuel rail and just cleaned it up. I think it's a ticking time bomb IMO and needs to be replaced but it'll require a used part since it's discontinued.

If I knew they were gonna pull that bait and switch shit I would've never brought it too them and done it myself. However since they disconnected the fuel filter stating it was leaking everywhere (not true) I didn't want a truck back that was already leaking in a 2nd location everywhere.

 

Got a pic of it?

I'll keep an eye out for a good one at the yard.

 

It’s the hose in front connecting to the new line over the fender. The other side goes to the back of the fuel rail on the drivers side.

 

That's what I was thinking. When you push the pedal, the fluid finds the weak spot and exits, effectively not putting pressure on the entire system.

 

@Jack McCarthy Mine is rusty and crusty, but does not appear to be at imminent risk of failure. I'll try to buy the parts if I can find them. There are two parts, the line that runs from the fuel rail to the connector by the frame, and its mate which runs to the fuel filter. For my truck, the former is 238010F010, and the latter is 77251-xxxxx (still trying to identify it). I believe I have found stock for 238010F010.

 

@Jack McCarthy I found it...S&H seems a little high

 

Where's it routed? MD to Bangladesh and back to America? lol

Must be the white glove service where upon delivering it, they give you the finger in a white glove.

 

Oh, wait a minute @w666, that's specified for freight delivery. Must come in on it's own pallet. lol

Do they give you any other option for shipping?

 

McGeorge claims to be able to furnish both, but they won't ship the 77251-0C012 because it is too long...local pickup only. I'm checking with my local dealers now.

I spent $100 on brake lines for the assurance that I'll be able stop any time I want...I'll gladly spend ~ $200 so that I don't burst into flames!

 

@Jack McCarthy FYI I sourced the 77251-0C012 at my local dealer. $79.33 MSRP, but no shipping. The 23801-0F010 is on the way from McGeorge.

 

Yeah, I see the 23801-0F010 listed at my local dealer. I thought I had a different part number originally though that showed discontinued. I show the following in the parts diagram referencing item 23801P which are:
1. 23801-0F010
2. 23801-50020
3. 23801-50021

All 3 state “pipe-sub assembly fuel, no. 1” for a description. I’m confused.

 

Okay, I referenced the thread “under hood fuel leak” I originally commented within about the fuel hose and dealer told me part # 23801-50050 is all they have listed.

Now I’m totally confused.

 

@Jack McCarthy It may be different for 2002, but I don't know why it should be. The part that you had fabricated inelegantly is 77251-0C012 (Tube, Fuel Main), which fits Production Date: 08/2002-08/2004, Fitting Vehicle Options: UCK3#, 4#.

The part you need (which runs front the fuel rail to the rusty connection by the frame) is 23801-0F010 (should fit your 2002 as well). ~ $50 + S&H @ McGeorge Toyota. (There are probably some washers for the banjo connection to the fuel rail, but I may have some laying around.) I have a new OEM fuel filter which I've never installed because @Shifty told me I didn't need to .~ (.~ is the "snark mark"). When I get around to opening the fuel line (hopefully before it opens itself!) I'll install it as well.

 

Yeah, show off a pic when you get it. My truck was built 2/2002 but that’s probably irrelevant for the part I need.

FYI…if the fuel line to the filter is rusted at the filter connection, you may need a new rail breaking the old one free.