I changed my spark plugs today at 70K

My truck hit 70K this week so I changed the oil and spark plugs. I put Kirkland 5W-30 full synthetic in for oil and used NGK iridium plugs.

The plugs really didn't need changed and were still well under the recommended mileage but I am taking a long trip soon and did it for piece of mind. I was also curious what the original plugs looked like. The original plugs were still in good shape and looked like they had been a little warm and had a little pitting on the electrode but would have probably been fine. I know where I am at now with it and they wont need changed for another 10 years.

The plugs were not easy for a older guy like me to get to. I used a step stool and took breaks. The second plug back from the passenger was the most difficult to change due to the wiring harness in the way. I took my time and unplugged the coil packs without breaking the wiring plug.

Here is where you can laugh at me. I got a little anxious and was happy to be nearly done and forgot to plug in the second plug back from the divers side. I started the truck and it threw a fit with a CEL and saying the trailer brake controller and collision warning system were having issues. I thought "damn, all I did was change plugs". I plugged in the coil pack that I missed and unhooked the battery for a couple minutes and it was all OK after that.

 

Oldish guy here too, gonna tackle this soon. Thanks for the experience

 

Thanks Iowa guy, thanks for sharing. Can you please share a photo of the old plugs?

 

Older guy as well and at 140k miles I need to change mine soon, wish me luck!

 

Good luck!

 

Any tricks to pushing the wiring plug tab, and getting them to come off without breaking the tab(s). I think I saw someone in a video with a small screwdriver that was used to lift up gently from the bottom edge?

 

I know this may make more work but removing the front wheels will give you easier access to the plugs.

 

Not so older guy here... just changed my plugs for the second time (the ones that were in there were suspect and I happened to find one missing the electrode). I feel your pain with that wiring harness on the passenger's side. Even though, I think it's easier to change the plugs on this motor than just about any other V8 that I've owned.

I used a combination of deep well socket, 3" extension, 6" extension, and the occasional swivel joint to access the plugs. As for the clips on the coils, I found that loosening the hold down bolt allows you to maneuver the coil fitting in to a position where it can easily be pinched by hand and removed. Some of them need to be partial removed from the bore, some rotated. Either way, unbolting the coil seemed to work a charm for me. I think it took less than hour to change all eight, and probably the fewest number of expletives that I recall changing plugs.

Alternately, the small screwdriver technique works well as long as you have more patience and ability to control your stabbing impulse than me. If you are super gentle, a pair of carefully employed needle nose pliers can be used to pinch the top of the connector. This requires less stabby stabby, more grabby grabby, and subtle amounts smashy smashy.

 

Im trying to picture how, would love to see a video of this method.

 

I have lost a lot of strength in my hands so I used a smaller pair of channel locks to pull the wiring cap connector off and a smaller screwdriver to push in the tab before pulling. I have seen some of these connectors on other trucks that were brittle,( pos Fords have a wimpy connector) but mine weren't too bad and took a lot of prodding and prying. I was nervous about breaking one but it turned out ok. When I pligged them back in I waited to hear the small click that the tab had reengaged. A couple had enough wiring harness that the coil and plug boot came out without unplugging the wires.

I am trying to picture how taking off the tire would help? The air box / filter was sorta in the way too.

I was nervous that I would damage something but as evidenced by my not plugging one back in the truck will throw a code if one is not working

Edit: I did use a magnetic stick tool to pull the plugs out of the head once I loosened them. My plug socket didn't always grab them. I also didn't torque the plugs, I just snugged them.