What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

My brother had a 1956 Willy's wagon with a giant steel bumper he called a "you lose" bumper.

 

To be fair, my HID fiasco took place 10-15 years ago, when the kits were 'new technology'. Hopefully for your sake, they improved since then and yours are good, and you find some minor overlooked fault, so you don't have to buy new housings to have lights again. Chasing gremlins is never fun.

 

Out with the old, broken blower motor resistor, in with the new, after the stealership parts debacle concluded, with a 1hr round trip there and back.

And now I have a resistor and I can run at low speed, at the lowest notch, after cleaning, I realize the pine needle you can see in THIS PICTURE or THIS ONE was causing the ticking sound I was hearing out of my blower/fan. I almost always keep my fan on low in the truck, and had the faintest tick that ramped up with fan speed. All gone after my HVAC treatment last weekend. Hopefully won't need to open this up again any time soon, but I plan to drop the blower motor in cast there's other crap above the motor. I wish someone made an adapter that'd let us install a cabin filter!

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I was thinking more Mad Max, but I tend to wax extreme on some things.

DAMN! That sounds like a find-a-spot-in-the-middle-and-buy-me-a-beer-or-bbq-or-both type of deal, TBH.

So, I'm gonna ask a question. And I'm not asking this to be, like, critical or something.

But knowing how easy it is to unplug your OEM harness, and migrate it into the replacement door, why didn't you just pop off the old door, move its guts to the new door, fish the one end of the harness through the door and its rubber grommet/tube thingy, and plug it in?

I can't think of any reason the lock'd only work one way, unless there was a defect with the original wiring inside the donor door. This is why I always make a point of moving the known-working stuff over, even if the replacement has everything inside already.

 

Thanks for the response. I think it actually worked itself out. I would typically swap everything over as well, but the replacement door was in better shape, had better hinges, better latch & overall better everything. I didn't see a need to swap the harness over.
The locks work now, I think it was a matter of trying it before EVERYTHING was plugged back in.

 

It looks like I'm due for coils too. Two on the passenger side are cracked. Not even gonna bother checking the driver side. Ordering new ones now before driving to Sedona.

 

OK, door latch time for me for reals. For my '02 RC, I'm thinking these might be my part numbers?

Front Right: 69310-0C010
Front Left: 69320-0C010

 

Yessir just ordered mine as well. I’d rather have them on hand than wait for shipping and potentially have down time. Lift will have to wait a little longer I guess haha.


I did get my new sway bar end links in today! And I was able to set all spark plug tube seals in the proper orientation without using the other set so I can return those! Time to go get these valve covers back on and pray I don’t snap any more bolts *rapidly knocks on wood*

 

It's also worth noting, power door locks typically won't work fully if a door is open as well. Always test with the door closed AND with the window down. Don't ask why I know to warn about the latter. I don't want to disclose how many times I've made THAT mistake.

 

NOT COOL! That'll wake you up on the quick. Really impressed with the stopping distance according to the rubber you laid. In other news, we gotta get you a dash cam Noah!

 

He’s got one. I’ve seen footage of some of his drives. Must not have been recording….

 

Don't recall my '03 having TPMS.

 

Yup, it was clarified that TPMS started with the 2005-2006 refresh. I know it definitely wasn’t on my 2000 Limited (features) edition

 

Midland was well known in the day. I want to say Radio Shack's brand, but a little reading says otherwise. Maybe the Shack sold them. Somehow they're connected in my brain. But what i was really meaning to say is I've found magnetic mount rooftop CB antenna's start moving in the 70's MPH range.

 

CB's are useful to -listen- to truckers on the highway. You get Bear warnings far earlier than a radar detector & generally more accurately than Waze.

 

You just can't give Noah nice things.
So you've started your Snorkel & high clearance front bumper install then...

 

Dunno why he wants body panels

 

@Tundra2 you have a seatbelt burn? 2 steps forward and 1 step back, learning your lessons like a man...but this is a lesson you shoulda learned bouncing the virus off a guardrail or whatever. I'm not knocking, you do you booboo, but make an effort to learn from this.

 

i dont hate it. About $300 cheaper than the arb.

 

“It’s not terrible”

 

Think the previous Rolla virus scrape involved another asshole. F that deer!!

 

Talk me out of it...

https://solomotorsports.com/shop/parts/ford-parts/suspension/dana-44-extended-ttb/

 

Prolly the same damn deer that hit me.

 

Do it

 

no shit, its more travel for damn near half the price even if i eat the core charge. Gimme a good excuse to get the 2.5 gen glass nose.

the TTB rear axle and steering might be too much, but its not off the table with a frame stretch and 8' utility bed.

 

Alright, calling all OBD gurus. YO!
So, couple days ago, my CEL popped up. Code was P0446, some kind of EVAP circuit signal voltage blah blah blah. At the same time I noticed my MPG went to shit, like 10-11 on the freeway from about 14-15. I had just installed an onboard air compressor and a massive air horn under the hood so it's possible something got tugged or bumped. Checked all the wiring connectors and hoses, gave it all the jiggle test, and nothing seemed to be out of order. Cleared the codes and the CEL, and neither have returned. That's great. Still getting shit MPG.
So I plugged in the scanner to check sensor data, thinking somethings gotta be showing with trim levels. Nope. They were all consistently switching and staying within 5% of zero. However, fuel system would drop to open loop for just a second when I would cut off throttle completely. Also the MAF would be at around 6 g/sec when coasting, but jump up to over 100 g/sec. The MAF values may be normal, I'm just not educated enough on this stuff to be sure.
I'm going to pull the MAF and clean it, and clean the throttle body. Beyond that I'm lost so if anyone has any insight, I'll appreciate hearing it.
Guess I should tag @Shifty' @empty_lord, or anybody else

 

No to the 2.5 glass no no no no no
Yes to the rest

 

Buy a new gas cap. I just had the code like 3 months back and it was the gascap