What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

What set did you go with? I went with these, watching your progress closely. I need to do mines too.

Prothane (18-103) 95-00 Toyota P/U 2/4wd Body Mount Kit - Red

https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-18-103-Red-Body-Mount/dp/B00386UEJU?crid=34XELWGZS0BP2&keywords=Prothane+Body+Mount+Bushings+18-103&qid=1679097721&sprefix=prothane+body+mount+bushings+18-103%2Caps%2C723&sr=8-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

 

I got these in Amazon and they didn’t break the bank made in the USA

$52 Wilde Tool HPB3-SQ.B/HTHC 3-Piece Hard Cap Pry Bar Set - 12", 17" & 25" Bars

https://www.amazon.com/Wilde-Tool-H...9097920&sprefix=wilder+pry+bar,aps,323&sr=8-1

The HF stuff made in Taiwan can be a bargain.

 

If I was using it all the time I would definitely get better stuff but garage weekend warrior in me gets Pittsburgh

 

I love some Harbor Freight tools. Some items like flare nut wrenches it doesn't make sense to pay any more for.

 

Somethings don’t make sense to pay more for, I just took advantage of the sale HF
had last weekend and snatched up their 20 ton press for $199

 

I went with this.

$133 Energy Suspension 8.4109R Body Mount Set-Reg, Access & Dbl Cab

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G1X9ZBK?ie=UTF8

The one you linked looks like the bushing that sits between the frame and the body may be too short? Maybe 1/2" or less? maybe they are shorter on the AC. As a note, the front/radiator bushings were useless for me, I used some other scavenged universal bushings up top, and re-used the OEMs that were original below.

I think the top part of my bushings are 13/16". With the 1/4" plate and the washer, I'm close to a 1" before any compression. I think I gained 1/8" over the OEM mounts all together once the cab was back down.

 

@alb1k good eye, turns out I saw a video on youtube where a guy used the kit I linked but had to also reuse his old spacers to make it work. Here is the link
https://youtu.be/jb_GlNcruQ0

That video along with this post have been my points of reference moving forward. I’ll update once the kit arrives ms I get home to do the upgrade/fix.

 

Better to have, than to have not.

I've always heard the general rule with HF: If you won't use it more than a couple times per year, HF will do. 99% of tools fall under that umbrella.

No point in paying big dollars if your job doesn't depend on it. (Some would argue this is why China is winning)

 

HF has improved much over the years. Certain lines carry lifetime replacement...and Craftsman no longer does.

 

Bro I want some! Those are awesome. Did you get em from Twitter or what?

 

Today I topped off my coolant. I still can't find a leak but I have to add a few ounces every 6 months or so. I also pulled back the cover to peek at my 6 year old timing belt. I'll probably replace it sometime next year.

 

Harbor Freight 1st thing this AM..

New tool cart & tool set for my son.. saved $70 off the already cut price on the 5 drawer and 30% more on everything else..

Plus , they hid/kept the black one I called about yesterday in "plain site"... Boz kinda Smiled at his Old Man when we went to cash out,

Young Lady just when she heard me speak (recognized my voice, I must be in there too much ) and told him where to "Find it"

and their tilt lift cart about put that box in the Tundra by itself..

So , what I did with my Tundra.... used it as a truck

 

https://www.yotahmclub.com/collections/sticker

 

The size of your phone!

 

Have not experienced lost coolant of that small amount with Tundra but have years back on other vehicles with that very small amount over 6 months via the water pump weep hole. It was hard for me to locate since it was exiting when engine was running up and down the road/hwy.

 

That is exactly where I suspected it was leaking especially since it's been 6 years since that water pump was replaced. Since it's leaking so little I'll just keep an eye on it. I already had Blackstone Labs confirm it isn't getting into the oil.

 

My 2000 is like this. I have a very slow leak at the rear water crossover pipe gaskets that only drips when it’s hot and been driving long time. On my round tuit list since intake manifold has to come off to reach it

 

Damn, they sure are proud of em at $10 a pop

 

I assume you're able to see it leak? I've shined my flashlight under the manifold where the starter hides and I can't see any leaks.

 

I just had my timing belt and water pump replaced after only 45k miles because there was oil and coolant leaking from the timing case. I suspect the bargain I had gotten on an Asin timing belt online 5 years ago was probably a counterfeit.

 

Well….this has been a very fun and informative day….praying everything goes back together smoothly….and the timing is right

 

If that's actually a telephone, I think it qualifies as a phablet.

 

Oh damn, I forgot, what'd I do to the truck today?

The wife's '20 Highlander was having some sour smells when HVAC was turned on, so I bought Toyota's service kit for that, and picked up a new charcoal-activated filter. The Toyota Parts number for this 2pc kit is 00289ACRKT but when I bought it locally using that part number the local dealership replaced it with the regional kit which falls under their part number

$33 00036-00008 GENUINE TOYOTA APPROVED S.E.T. SERVICERITE AC EVAPORATOR REFRESH KIT 00053-00008

00036-00008. The 2-part kit consists of a can of typical evap coil flush you'd use on residential coil cleaner, and can of ozone-activated spray similar to Ozium from bitd. It looks like this, except my tip was a slimmer barb as you'll see below:

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This is what the barb looked like on my kit, which made things way easier than the wedge shown there.

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I figured since I was going to be in the garage flushing her system out, I'd go ahead and do the Tundra at the same time. I had the better part of a BG FrigiClean kit, so I mixed and matched on these.

Video instructions of how to use the above kit can be found on YouTube.

Anyway, I didn't want to flush before looking inside to see if there was a shitload of debris inside. I remember what other members like PHM found inside theirs. I also wanted to get a better feel for how the evaporator housing and coil were situated so I'd know what'll happen when pumping the foam in through the drain port.

So I popped off the glovebox - easy enough, two screws underneath - so I could pop out the blower motor resistor, which also has 2 screws holding it in - but before you remove yours, see my warning below.

In all reality, I didn't necessarily need to pop off the glovebox, since the resistor is just right here, you can see the evap coil in the background:

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Sadly, when I popped out the resistor, I found it was broken! SOB. Guess I'll be ordering another one, which I'm dreading, I bet this is at least $60-80 part.

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Considering these trucks don't have any cabin filter, I was surprised to see how little crap was in here, other than the three chunks of resistor ceramic inside.

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Was able to take some 5/8" ID vinyl hose attached to the new Ridgid shop vac to slider inside and vacuum these little bits out. Ready for foam.

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I electrical taped the resistor together so I could reinstall to hold the foam in. Setup the can. Popped the barb into the evap coil drain and started shaking/pumping about half the can into the evap coil box. I followed BG's FrigiClean instructions, once I pumped it all in there, I fired up the engine, kicked on the AC full blast non-recirc, for about 5 seconds to pull foam thru the coil. If it's not clear where I was barb'ing into, this should help. Follow the tube up to the can.

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After killing the engine, knowing I couldn't easily throw a catch can under the drain port, I chucked a towel down just so I'm not throwing chemicals on my frame or other bits.

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It took a good 15mins before the foam reconstituted as liquid and drained out 95% of the way. It still dripped a little. And here's where it drips to on my truck.

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Once I got here, I fired up the engine, kicked on the AC full blast and in non-recirc mode, slid the rear slider window half-open, and sprayed the freshener spray into the cowl vent next to the passenger side wiper shaft for 30 seconds with the vent in "head" mode, waited 2 minutes, then 30 seconds spray while in "foot" mode, waited 2 minutes, and repeated one last time in defrost mode. At that point, the deodorant can was empty.

I opened back up after just to look at things. The kit didn't un-cake a ton of dirt, but it definitely got the coils shinier and liquified some of the cake that was in there, and get almost all the cake off the coils themselves. The truck's air smells absurdly better. (more text after the pic)

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This is a really damn difficult place to shoot clear pics, so it really doesn't look a helluva lot better in pics, but looked significantly better in person.

Anyway ... in case anyone else had been thinking about doing similar, or your air smells like shit, this kit was like $28 I think from the dealership, and it took about 30 minutes start to finish. You really do need to remove the glovebox to pop out the resistor to pre-vacuum things.

Almost forgot - the wife's 2020 Highlander hybrid... the evap coil housing drain is visible in the passenger wheel well, just under the top of the carpet. Difference in smell before/after is night and day. I didn't realize the 2020+ Highlanders were having so many issues with evap coil drainage clogs, bugs making nests in the drain tube, etc. It takes 2x as long to drain the cleaner out, too.

 

Bonus side-by-side:

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This is inside the cowl right?

 

Nope.

Behind the glovebox, you'll see a silver screw holding down a rectangular plate, at the bottom of the plate. That's the HVAC resistor. Behind that resistor plate gives you direct access to the evaporator coil. Let me go snap a pic.

 

I thimk I changed my resister. It was like under the glove box and the hamster wheel

 

Yep, here. My blower motor resistor is out because it's broken, so you can clearly see where it is. It's this box down here. You gotta take the glovebox off (it's 2 screws at the lower hinges) to get one of the resistor screws.

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Here you can see the full compartment, and both screwholes, and a clear shot of the evap coil inside the housing because my resistor is still out. And you can see the two glovebox screws you need to remove to pop out the resistor

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how do you not have the fancy battery hold down that is/was all the rage?