New-to-me '06 Tundra AC

Hello all,
(edit: I'm not trying to make people retype the whole forum, I did read stickies etc, so if it's already been hashed, just tell me to "read up on it" haha)

I recently purchased my dad's truck. It's an 80k mile '06 AC TRD with 6" RCD lift and 35" KO2's.
I posted some threads/questions when it was his, but now that it's mine I have different questions (and I've done more research on some stuff that we should have been seeing a long time ago).
I've been reading extensively on this awesome forum but figured it might be best to have these answers in one spot instead of piggy backing/ hijacking threads (maybe this should be a build thread?). Here's some backstory...
He had it for last 10 yrs (and put 5k miles since!). Lift etc was all done (at 37k) before he bought it. Service history shows 20k "70B RPL BALL JNT", lift installed at 37k, Timing belt at 75k but 10yrs ago, Upper Moog balljoints 300 miles ago (doh!), tires and front struts are 2k miles old.

My questions/concerns are timing belt, ball joints, rust, and this strawberry milkshake radiator thing, among others.
My questions for "shifty" and others are:
BALL JOINTS- I/he JUST did uppers, but got Moog because I hadn't seen this info yet! No info about lowers being loose but apparently that doesn't matter and not sure if they are oem either. I'm not sure about the "70B RPL BALL JNT" in the records if that was the recall etc?

Should I get Moogs pulled back out of uppers for oem, or is it just the lowers that have issue? (I get scared by the horror stories!)

TIMING BELT- was done right when my dad bought the truck. Which is now 5k miles ago but 10 years old. No real question here. I'll inspect the belt for any visual, but seems like it's barely due on time frame.

STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE- I'm just now seeing about this, but should a perfectly fine acting radiator be switched out as preventative?

I need to look into several other things like battery drain from stupid "Carr" alarm, Cat converter protection, under carriage coating, back-up camera, kill switch installation, etc etc.

Thanks and here's a pic for reference. I can try to answer any other questions.

 

Welcome to the forum. sharp looking truck, though I'm not a fan of the scoop and bull bar, it'd look hella cleaner without 'em both.

Upper BJs: Not a huge problem. It's lowers you really want to go OEM with. Question though: What's he got installed for upper control arms?

Timing Belt: Get under the truck and trace the wiring for the crank position sensor, make sure they shop that did the timing belt actually tucked the wire out of harm's way, so the serpentine belt won't rub it raw when it passes by the crank pulley. Aside from that, 10yr/100k miles is the change frequency. That side, it's just a couple 10mm fasteners to loosen up and pry back the timing cover and look at the belt. Get on it!

Milkshake: It's cheap insurance to swap out the radiator. Make sure you go with Denso, and get the correct radiator for your cab type. AC/RC trucks use different dimension'd radiator than DC.

Does the truck have the dreaded KARR alarm installed, ported at the dealership? Is it suffering from battery drain issues?

 

Thanks for the reply shifty. I'm actually with you on the scoop and bully bar. I'm very torn with updating/changing the looks. My dad loves the way it looks and I'm not really looking to change everything he likes about it, even if it is technically mine now. I do plan on removing the bully though and if I was looking to update I'd go with de-chrome, bronze rims, new school "Toyota" grille, no scoop etc, but it does have a cool 90's/ 2k's flavor to it.

Glad to know the upper BJ's aren't a huge issue, and I have no idea what upper control arms they are (would a pic help any?). I'll check into the CPS wiring and the timing belt condition. Looks like I'll changing radiator too.

It does have the KARR alarm from the dealer. It can last anywhere from few days or overnight! I had it deactivated for a while and it lasted 3 weeks so I know it's the alarm that's doing it. I tried to go to a stereo shop but they say has to go to the dealer for that KARR system.

 

Yes, the KARR alarms are pieces of shit, and many trucks that had them installed already had factory keyless, though some lacked the glass breakage sensor to make it a full alarm. Installing the glass break sensor and couple other odds and ends would've only cost a couple hundred but dealers were making $1,500 on the upsell from what I understand, and their technicians would butcher the gd things in. Are you comfortable uninstalling it? If not totally, I recommend finding a trusted shop that installs premium brands like Clifford, Avital, DEI alarms and ask them to properly pull and repair the wiring. If you're confident, I remember seeing a thread on how to uninstall if you want me to find it and link you to it.

If you need part number on the radiator, give a shout. You can pull it yourself using the Part Finder feature at www. DensoAutoParts.com

For suspension, I hope this helps you understand a bit more. This is the upper half of your suspension covering the area you have confusion about. I can draw up similar for you about the bottom half real quick if you find this helpful, it only took like 90 seconds to scribble out using a borrowed pic.

I'm not super familiar with the RCD lift, though a couple other guys here have installed it, so I'm not 100% sure what it replaces, or what may not look the same as this, which is basically stock, but with Bilstein 5100s for the loaded strut (strut == shock+spring combo). The upper ball joint basically holds the steering knuckle to the upper control arm. On 4WD we call the knuckle a "knuckle", on 2WD we typically call it a "spindle".

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Thanks for the basic explanation. I am familiar with some suspension stuff but mostly from the car world not 4x4's. No need for the offer on the lower ball joint setup. Just to clarify, I meant not sure what brand or style the upper control arms are (not what they are : )).
Here is a couple pics I already had to show you what they look like on my truck (obviously ignore the blown shock in the old pic). The RCD does use Bilstein 5100's and I know it replaces the front crossmember among other things.
I can check out the radiator part number.
I looked up my build on the Toyota owners site & looks like I do have the keyless entry from factory. I'm not real down with wiring so I'll have someone check that out.
Thanks again man, you've been super helpful!

 

Dang, another low mileage Tundra, where are these all coming from!

All I can find around here are 250k+ not that I need another one