2022+ Crewmax Sub enclosure build specs

I have been chatting with James & Mr Marv and local audio shop about building an enclosure for dual subs ported behind the rear seats. What I have learned so far:

• the taccotoonz box is VERY misrepresented. It is nowhere close to the advertised 1.5cuft. Closer to 0.9.
  
• There is much less space back there than in previous gens AND more cuts to be made (see design below)
• Usable depth at the bottom is 6.5". Assuming 21" height then you have 2.5" depth at very top.
• Need to use 1/2" to get the max volume
• No modification (except removing plastic bins) - only enough cu ft for one sub; Two subs require Slight modification - remove the jack mount on passenger side will open up more space & "simplify" the box design (This is what I have done - I put jack under rear seats)
• Borrowing design features of the taccotoonz box and making the "drops" behind seat frame driver, center, passenger & using 1/2" yields range of 1.3cu - 1.5cu ft. This is perfect amount for two JL 10TW3, ported
• The overall depth will vary according to the driver being used due to the excursion amount / grill. For the 10TW5 With 6.5" usable depth at the bottom, less the excursion/grill depth of the subwoofers (2") so the depth at bottom for my build is 4.5"
• 4.5 depth on the "drops" and the slant for the wedge shape begins at top of the drops

 

My build is in process - I used 3/4" mdf for bracing & the "face" of the drops that the subs will mount to. Sub 1 on passenger drop, Sub 2 on center drop, port will be on the driver side drop. Accounting for driver displacement, port and bracing my box is 1.21cu ft - perfect size for two 10TW3s ported at 32Hz







If you dont want to remove jack plate, and only use one sub, then only build box to width of driver/center area like tacotoonz box. Sub will go in center drop.

 

I do have a new pair of JL10TW3 s for sale if interested.

 

Finished - it was a tight fit, had to do a little more trimming of the plastic but I got it in. Gotta put on the CLD & CCF next

 

This gives me hope I’ll be able to fit a single JL 12” TW5. I appreciate the box dims.

Where did you have to do additional trimming?

 

Top corners of box were rubbing the plastic trim on back wall. I just cut a notch on those trim pieces so the box would slide back. You can see whwre I cut on top right corner when zoom in.

Only way to get a 12" to fit is behind the passenger side.

Lesson learned - the box dimensions are exact, felt adds thickness - ended up having to remove felt from sides of the center drop.

 

Thanks. I can see it now that you pointed it out.

I’ll probably shave some dimensions to account for felt.

I actually have the 12-tw3, so this looks workable as I only need .8 to 1 cu foot and 3.5” of mounting depth. It sucks that I can’t keep the passenger side storage, but that will be how it is most likely.

Once I get the truck apart, I’ll take some measurements and see if the shallow mount will allow me to go back on the drivers side.

Your box looks great man, I can’t thank you enough for posting the dims.

 

My pleasure. The center seat belt canister is placed on the driver side section that jutts out about 3" from back wall, so it will be difficult if not impossible to fit a 12" there (I could not fit a 10TW3). If you look at tacootoones box for 2022 Tundra you can see they managed it for the IDv4 subs. I just built around it since I was putting subs is pass/center drops.

If you a set on a 12" and dont feel like hassling with box build, I would suggest selling the 12TW3 and get this preloaded box with new Alpine sub (@619Tundra is a good source of info on this sub)

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-JjOSshoebAf/p_500RSSB12/Alpine-RS-SB12.html

It will fit under the driver side rear seat storage if you trim the back wall. This would allow you to keep the back wall storage and minimal modification.

 

I have the hybrid, so there is no under seat storage.

I’m probably going to locate it on the passenger side as it looks like if I cheat the woofer up some fro where one of your tens are, I can fit it on that side. I’ll probably gut the factory woofer and use that space for amps.

Im going to need to figure out the wiring harness as I’m going to have to come out the back side of the jbl amp into a fix-82.

 

Message @james@tech12volts . Alrhough the link shows up to 2020 models, I THINK you can still use his DSR solution for the JBL equipped 2022 Tundras - this will correct jbl "magic" and give you some basic DSP stuff (pay extra for the programming) so no need for the fix82.
https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=569&categoryId=124

if that doesnt work, you may want to check out the pac amppro https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ty11

 

I had reached out to idatalink/maestro today. Their chart for the harness stops at 2021 and shows 2022 as blank for the Tundra. That appears who tech12volts is using, so we will see.

Given the holidays I’ll give them some time. If they don’t have a good answer, I may reach out to tech12volts to see what they have to say.

I have a pretty long list of other stuff to do, so if answers aren’t great, it isn’t hard for me to let this slide some on until it gets figured out and published.

I went through being one of the first on my Supra; it was a lot of time spent figuring out the amp situation, BMW Mostbus and Harmon implementations, trying to get boutique vendors to respond, trying to get products once they did, finding workarounds for when they went silent, etc. It was a giant pain in the ass.

 

Here is another prefab besides tacootoonz

https://www.foxacoustics.com/collections/toyota-tundra-crewmax/products/2022-toyota-tundra-crew-max

This one is ported for two 10"s, BUT be advised the advertised 1.2cuft will not include volume displaced by drivers (maybe the port volume too) either way you would have 1.1cuft at best for a dual ported system. 4.375" mounting depth

Fox also has an underseat prefab that takes up all of that space - 2.4cuft and is precut for FOUR 10"s. (I have not done the number crunching for this space so I cannot speak to the volume accuracy) This box can be ran as ported or sealed. 4" mounting depth.

 

1.2 isn't enough for two ported 10tw3 anyway right?

What about this box? 1.1 would probably work fine for two 10tw3 as a sealed box based on specs.
https://www.ground-shaker.com/index...-23-toyota-tundra-crew-max&Itemid=104&lang=en

 

1.2 is perfect for sealed box for (2) 10TW3s.

 

JL website: 0.6cu for ported, so times two = 1.20.... (this is AFTER accounting for speaker and port displacement). In my experience, most prefabs do not account for displqcement in their advertised volumes.

Having said that, I have two 10TW3 D4 wired to one ohm. I have 1000w in tap at 1ohm and it rattles everything in my truck and stays well composed so I ended up NOT porting my box.

 

Weird, I thought I had looked previously and ported needed 0.75cuft each. Agreed though, 10tw3 does excellent in a sealed enclosure, which is more my style anyway due to preferring SQ over SPL. In my last tundra I had a single 10tw3 in a sealed underseat box with 500 watts rms and it was impressive for what it is.
Anybody have thoughts on that ground shaker box? Other than being a little pricey for a pre-fab. Does it look like it will fit? I have a hybrid so I know it will be tight back there anyway. Plan to only use a JL XD600 that I have laying around on two 10tw3-d8 subs and wanting another sealed box.

 

You are actually not wrong the 10TW3 D8 need more space than the D4

only concern I would have with that groundzsro box is the depth at bottom. Without CLD installed, I think the bottom usable depth is 6.75-7". Now factor in that the 10TW3 need at least 2" from the mounting surface for the grille / excursion ---- the ground zero depth is a 6.25" you would not be able to use a 10tw3. I think the ID sub (IDv4?) that tacotoons uses would work though. Also the 10tw3 has larger cutout 9.625 than most other 10" subs (9.25) so you would have to increase the hole size on that boxp

I made the bottom depth on my box to be 4.5" --- the additional depth for the grill is what screwed me up during build process because I didnt account for it...

 

Thank you!! Seriously!!

 

Info on that ground-shaker box. Good to know it fits a hybrid, but as expected it is too tight for many subs and they will rub the seats.

Hello, that box will fit in the hybrid truck. We used a hybrid crew max when we designed that enclosure. The TW3 subwoofer will fit in our box if you modify the cutout but it will touch the back seat.

 

Ended up buying that ground shaker box for two 10s, only box I could find to fit the hybrid since it has to sit on top of the battery box. Not a lot of room for subs, although I wanted 10tw3 since I know how good they work, I ended up with two Rockford Fosgate P3S shallow subs in dual 2 ohm. Have a JL XD600 on them, so 300 watts rms each. Used an LC2i pro to grab the factory JBL sub channel. Space is very tight, had to move the jack and put the amp and LOC there. Still tuning and playing with it, definitely not the same as TW3 sub I had before, but overall sounds pretty decent. Not really room to put the rings on the subs without rubbing but I did it to protect the speakers from the back seats. you can see the rings push into the back seat but the speakers don't touch.
EDIT: After some success from another member, I ordered the Hertz MPS 250 shallow subs to replace the RF P3S. The Hertz are basically a replica of the JL 10TW3, but with grille included, shallower overall height outside the box, and smaller diameter that doesn't require the hole in the box to be cut out larger. They just fit and allow the back seat to latch. The grilles push into the back seat carpet pretty hard, but it seems like it will work fine. Happy to report even with the same 300watts for each sub as before, the sound is much better due to double the Xmax of the RF subs. Plays much louder at high volume without bottoming out, and much lower/deeper due to the excursion. Very happy with the change.

 

Ultimately there needs to be a larger hole for the subs and an inner ring created to allow for a sub ring within the box to allow the subs to be somewhat recessed...dammit custom box it is.

 

Not a lot of depth available, but I'm sure it could be done. These subs are 3.5" but they sit at an angle which gives a little more room.

 

When I first got my truck, no one was making a prefab box for it. I went off on my own and build a fiberglass box for 1 10. After living with a single 10, I will be modifying it to fit a shallow 12. It sounds good as it is but I still want a little more.

It took a good amount of time but only worked on it over 3 weekends.

I learned that I didn't recess it enough, 3/4" is the current recess. Should have gone with 1". A well worn in speaker or a speaker with a large excursion will hit the seat at extreme volumes. The sub in there now is a 15yo re-coned infinity. A newer speaker or one with reverse surround may correct the recess issue.

Overall cost was about $120 plus my time. I also had to remove some volume for this speaker because the total volume was about 1.4ft^3.

 

Where did you end up grabbing the signal from?

 

At the speaker connection.

 

@mattvarnell what did you do with the hole through the back of the cab that the stock sub covered up.
Thanks

 

I covered it from both sides with a couple of layers of second skin damplifier pro.

 

Is the space behind the rear seats the same on the double cabs as it is on the crew max?

 

Any advice on removing that plastic behind the rear seats? Snaps in or bolts? I plan to remove it soon but would like to remove it without damaging it so I can put it back later if I sale or trade my 2022 SR5 Crewmax! Thanks!

 

I believe the passenger side panel removes first with 2 10mm blots and then snaps. Then the driver side can be removed with snaps only.