What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

How am I supposed to trust those folks' opinion when they have such poor taste in vintage!?

This is what's really killing me though. It just so happens that the wheels to fit our 1st gens are like $100 more (each) in price. I'd really love to have this closer to $1200.

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Went to order the extended sway bar links and they're backordered. Figures.

 

I bought these 3 yrs ago, still haven’t installed. Thank you for the reminder

 

Sway bars are a luxury, and not required for T2S,.... just sayin....

See ya in April buddy

 

Holy procrastination Batman..

 

That’s like a month away!

 

I ordered those from vivid racing because it looked like they were in stock, got an email the next day saying they were back ordered until March 28th….guess I’ll be driving around clunking and rattling until they get here.

Currently waiting to see if my 4 seasons hose AC suction hose passes the leak check (fingers crossed) before they refill the Freon and I can have AC before the heat gets here More detailed write up probably when I get the kids to bed tonight

also finally got around to reattaching my review mirror button so I can reinstall the mirror later.

 

This place supposedly has more than a dozen in stock:

https://grudgemotorsports.com/produ...on-suspensionmaxx-suspensionmaxx-smx-1222270t

Josh @ 1stgenoffroad.com also lists them, may have access to them from whoever he's warehousing out of. A lot of these vendors use the same warehouses if they don't stock on-site.

Edit: Here's another vendor in TX that doesn't list them explicitly out of stock. May be worth a call. https://injectedmotorsports.com/hea...ta-tundra-leveled-suspension-suspensionmaxx-2

 

I bought those Suspension Maxx links on eBay

It was before I knew they had counterfeit issues but I believe mine are legit because they have held up well since 2019.

 

Currently outta stock on skeezBay. Only have the stock length units.

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Only took a month, but its finally here. My title however, is yet to show.

I have never heard a knock like this before. It is intermittent, seems mostly quiet at low idle(in gear), and almost sounds like somebody dropped a bolt in one of the cylinders. Checked the timing because I saw no record of it ever getting a belt in 170k, but its set right. No loss of power though, the thing doesn't seem to care. Thinking its rod bearings but I'd love to hear any alternatives. Did an oil flush, the old oil was black but not metallic, and it seems much happier with some new oil in it. Anyways, soon I'll tear the 4.7 down in this, make one outta two and probably spend 25 hours tuning the thing for all of the bs I'm changing. Oh yeah and the 35s gotta go, they ride like crap and rub at full lock.

 

You got a borescope?

 

Had the afternoon free so I finally spent a few hours swapping my diff... that I built 15 months ago.

4.10's, solid pinion spacer, new pinion seal and a powertrax torsen LSD.



Gave the housing a quick clean. Swaybar worked ok for holding the driveshaft out of the way.




Also put my rear spidertrax spacers on. Still got to do the fronts but skipped it in case I need to re-do my alignment for clearance.




FYI: 4x4 vs 2wd pinion flange. Overall length is the same but bolt patter is different.

 

Honestly the fitment issues seem to be 04-06 for weather tech is all double cab. 00-03 fit better. I don’t know why they ducked it all up, but anything from them I order for my 05 ends up being double cab stuff

 

Do you all think this is the correct part # for the missing washer on the driver side bolt of my steering rack? Looks like it.

90201-16033

 

Nope, probably gonna end up buying one. Checked the flexplate this morning and didn't see any cracks so I guess that's probably off the table. If I don't find anything with a cam ill drop the lower oil pan and quickly check the rod bearings.

 

Hey, there's a blast from the past.

So, a little update for those who care:

I broke down and put velcro in a couple of spots - on the vertical area at the front of the door, and again along the flat sill. The first velcro I used came off in the heat pretty quickly, but even if I had to do that once a year it was worth it to close the gaps.

Then I tried a different type of hook and loop, and that has – knock on wood – held very nicely for one Arizona summer. It's really different from the usual hook side then soft fuzzy side. With this stuff it's all the same – you just get one strip, cut two matching pieces, and there you have it. It's very rigid, reminds me of...whatever those bricks were we played with as kids (not LEGO, the fuzzy ones).

Anyhow, the stuff sticking to itself was never the issue, it's the stuff's adhesive backing sticking to the truck that gives out here in Arizona. This listing says up to 200F, hopefully that's enough. It seems to be holding very well. not cheap, but if it cures my annoyance, it's worth it.

$17 Industrial Strength - 5FT Black Indoor/Outdoor Adhesive Mounting Tape - Self Mating Reclosable Fastener Compatible with 3M SJ3550 / SJ3560 Dual Lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FY8JM3M?ie=UTF8

Ps... now the black plastic Tundra sill cover (not sure it's technical name) is peeling off and I catch my foot on that now. Do I spend money to replace those??? Can I rationalize that as being more than just cosmetic?

 

Drain-fill on rear diff, new crush washers. Tiny chatter backing out. Drove ~15 miles today w/3 stops, by the 2nd leg, no more chatter. Should've listened, lesson learned.

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Looks money to me.

 

The other day I changed my oil. After driving around for a day or two, I pulled the dipstick to top it up...needed ~ 1/2 quart. I grabbed a funnel and an open gallon of Mobil-1 5w30 that had ~ 1 qt in it as far as I could tell by sloshing it around. But when I poured it in I noticed it was red! SFP!! I can only imagine that when I changed the transmission a while ago, I must have filled up one bottle of waste, and started another using the first empty gallon I could find. So far, so good, except I obviously put it in the wrong spot (I need to rethink my waste management strategy).

So right then and there I got a pan and 14mm wrench and dumped 6+ qts of Mobil-1, and refilled it again. I didn't start the engine after the fluid mishap, so it felt safe enough to just drain and refill, didn't even yank the filter. Better safe than sorry, I guess.

Has anyone ever poured ATF into their crankcase? May it's not a problem, or perhaps it is.

Just resonating with @Shifty' post...$40 worth of oil down the drain (so to speak).

 

I wouldn’t think it’s a problem since you caught it so quick and it was a small amount.

 

You'll be fine . . . I threw a quart of that Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer in my old 2003 Tundra V6 and that stuff was like snot going in.
Ran it for a couple hundred miles and I didn't like what my oil pressure was doing, so I dumped it.

 

Finally got time to work on the truck. Changed the oil, 6 months old with 2,500 miles on it. Used some stashed Chevron Supreme 5w-30 I grabbed on sale. Then proceeded to attempt the upper and lower ball joints. Couldn’t get the Moog uppers out with a small sledge hammer. They’re stuck in the UCAs. I’ll attempt again with an adjustable puller. The fixed tie rod/ball joint pullers from oreilly’s weren’t wide enough for our UCAs.

Got the two “new” Moog lbjs out easily. They had about 8,000 miles on them (previous owner let a local shop install aftermarket parts). All I can say is wow, the drivers side had a ridge you could feel when rotating the ball. It felt worse than ball joints I’ve removed with 100k on them. The passenger lbj felt fine and rotated easily. Two new OEM lbjs installed. I’ll finish the upper ball joints when I get the new puller in. Also found where the shop broke the brake line retainer off and didn’t fix it…

Appreciate all the information and the factory service manual on here for torque values.

 

Just to make sure, did you remove the c-clip on the uppers ball joints? Also torching them helps.

You'll most likely want a large c-clamp style ball joint press for the uppers. There is a company that makes adapters specific for them too (total chaos maybe?).



Flushed my brake system today by doing a full bleed. May have to redo my rear diff gasket, it tore in one spot on install and may be seeping. I did put fipg there... also retorqued the nuts so fingers crossed.

Can confirm powertrax LSD works way better than my worn out one. Did some rain testing earlier, always fun to send it sideways through 2-3 gears.

 

I reuse my old jugs to keep old oil in but I put an X on the lid if old oil or put ATF or Coolant on it. I also keep them far away from the jugs of new oils.

 

(2006 DC 2WD)
I did a search on here but didn't come up with the answer I was looking for.
I'm in the process of changing out a few interior lights to LED, but ordered a couple wrong ones.
I've got the lower doors, map, & license plate lights handled. (They were all size 194 / T10)
But I'm looking for the dome light. (Middle of cab on, the ceiling).
I ordered the 6428 LED Festoon in 36mm, but it's too small / short.
Wondered if anyone here knows the correct size?
TIA

I thought there was an LED Conversion / size guide here somewhere, but I couldn't find it.

 

I do the same. X on lid/top, and both sides. I also keep the used outside on the side of the house.

 

My headlights have always been terrible on my 2000 so I put new housings and COlight H4 mini LED projectors on. Easy mod - just required pulling out the reflectors from the housings. Tin snips and a long needle nose made quick work of it. Light is much brighter and white with good cutoffs. So far so good.

 

Keep a fat black market near your fluids. I always put an X across the label of any empty I keep for dumped fluids.
Keeps me from thinking I have fluids I don't have & keeps me from adding used as you just did. The X is an easy solution.
-edit- which I see two others have also mentioned.

 

People who mix up that Ed's Red lubricant (used for guns and car stuff too as a Kroil substitute) use ATF, so I'd think that even if you ran the truck with it a while you'd be fine. Since you didn't, you're just out some oil.