Heartbreak Tundra

FINALLY Got my turn signal pigtails installed. these are from @daveeasa at FBC. Super high quality stuff.

For reference, wiring is something like this

Passenger side:
-turn: green/yellow
-park: green/silver
-ground: white/black

driver side:
-turn: green/black
-park: green/silver
-ground: white/black

That should be enough info if you are doing something similar. (I pray that you are not)

What should I do to protect these wires? I have them tucked out of the way for now, but id like to clean this up and be done with it. there are lots of sharp edges behind the turn signals.



My soldering isn't great, but it works.

RE: https://www.tundras.com/threads/headlight-sockets.101717/

 

Some heat shrink over the solder joints and then some flex loom would make it pretty. You’ll have to cut the joints to get the heat shrink tubing on. You could also just wrap it all with tape but that can make an adhesive mess when it gets hot.

 

everything does have heat shrink on it, i just want to keep the whole bundle together and protected. plastic split loom might be my only option, but I hate that stuff.

 

Alternatives are braided or tape. Lots of options for tape. High temp is best for engine bay.

 

Tesa tape.

 

some options

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/under-hood-split-braided-tubing-kits/
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/tesa-34-pet-exterior-tape/

 

Finished up my axle swap this weekend.

Pulled the new axle out of a donor truck, cleaned it up and put a coat of paint on it.
Here is the old axle pulled out of my truck. notice the gear oil buildup around the brakes.

Here is the new axle under the truck all finished up


This was a ton of work. I did it over Friday afternoon and Saturday morning. it probably took 14 hours of hard wrenching. this is a huge part of this truck project, and gives me hope for the future

 

I love how you have a restored rear axle (and I have envy)...however, I would have unbolted the drive shaft flanges rather than pulling out the slip yokes. There are two potential problems that you may, or may not have introduced in your process:

1. Phasing - The u-joints have to be be oriented a certain way to avoid vibration. By removing the slip yoke you had only two chances to reinstall it correctly, and many more to get it wrong.



2. Compatibility - Although the slip yokes are identical when new, after several hundred thousand miles they have worn in sympathy with their related drive shafts. Nuance for sure, but they would be much happier in their respective drive shafts, in their original orientation.

If you find that you have any new vibrations after this transplant the start here for trouble shooting.

 

This is an interesting point that never crossed my mind while doing the swap. I haven't noticed any vibrations, but ill keep this I mind if I do.

Maybe when I re-torque the u bolts ill take a look and maybe re-orient the slip yoke.

 

Nice truck! I enjoyed reading about your adventures!

 

Truck is a pile, but the adventures are as good as they get!

 

Spent the day with @REESE77 wrenching on the Heartbreak Tundra. It was fun and educational.

 

Today, me and @Rigger knocked out some of the last few maintenance items on my truck. The biggest being the timing belt. It’s an intimidating job for sure but absolutely doable by anyone with some basic tools, and maybe someone to help here and there. I followed the 1a auto YouTube videos, which were very clear, concise and extremely helpful. The hardest part for me was unbolting the AC condenser, but just about everything else is basic wrenching and following directions. Between 3 guys, the job took 6 hours including lunch break.

New parts that went on today include: timing belt, both timing belt idler and tensioner, water pump, serpentine belt and tensioner, new OEM LBJs, and rebuilt OEM CV axles. also, a week ago I threw on a new set of wheel spacers.



the CV axle rebuild was pretty straight forward, inner boots are from Kartek (I think?) and outers are from wheelers off-road. The job was pretty messy, hopefully they last. I’m not sure Id do that job again, but the cvs were free.

note to self: odometer is at 282,400

@Rigger needs to start posting more he has 4 tundras now, three of them being first gens. He’s my dad, that’s where I get my love for Toyotas. Somebody peer pressure this guy into making some build threads.

 

Congrats with all the work you and @Rigger made today on your truck
On your spacers do you think there is enough threads on the studs for those bolts to bite onto?

 

In that picture, the lugs were hand-tight, so they sit slightly lower. A quick google search shows that minimum thread engagement for. 12-1.5 lug nut is 8 threads.

To answer your question, I’m not sure. When I installed them, they didn’t strike me as dangerous. Next time I have a wheel off, I will pull a lug and count the threads going back on.

the rear wheel studs are longer, and they have full engagement with the lug.

 

Getting ready to replace a timing belt myself. Not looking forward to it all but thankfully it's getting warmer. Are you in Torrington?

 

All the way up in Sheridan. Let me know if you have any questions. It’s definitely not something to look forward to, but you will be relieved once you find out it’s not as bad as people make it sound.

 

Thanks Reese. I've done timing belts on the 3.4 v6, I'm thinking this maybe a little easier as far as room to work. Did you need the cam shaft positioning tool or a harmonic balancer puller?

I'm a little short on $ so I'm trying to avoid any unnecessary costs if possible. Hoping my 22 year old truck will last a while longer.

 

Did you hit the cow or did the cow hit you?
just curious, did the cow survive?

 

I have a 1/2” cordless impact so I didn’t need the positioner tool. I used a small wheel puller tool, I would say that’s absolutely necessary, I’m sure you could rent one from an auto parts store for free. There is definitely plenty of room in there once you pull the radiator. The only spot where you don’t get much room is when you are unbolting the ac condenser.

 

I hit the cow, or really a herd of cows.the cow did survive, and was most likely hamburger 6 months later

 

Strange as it may be, I actually have a DiskMan CD player with all of the car adaptors! PM me if you're interested in it.

Edit: I read the rest of this interesting thread. I guess several of us old-timers have these things.

 

I have always been intimidated by the 4.7 timing belt replacement job, but it is not really difficult. You have to keep track of nuts, bolts, screws & other hardware. I was bagging and tagging stuff. You also have to record or remember the order in which things come off so that you correctly reverse the process to re-assemble. It is definitely a long project, but not really a difficult one. YouTube videos are a big help.

 

Smashed my rear window Helping a buddy. rough evening


Replaced it with a unit from Ebay, quality is nowhere close to stock, but I can see again! anybody go through this? share your experience. I'm still not sure if replacing that single pane would have been a better option.


In other news, I got the truck offroad a bit and it does great! I still have a puck lift that needs removed ASAP

 

Man that sucks. I would have paid more to not lose my sliding window. I hope your friend chipped in some for that window.

 

He paid half and Helped pull out the old window, I figure that's square.

I wasn't so worried about the sliding portion, but this replacement is pretty rough compared to the quality of the stock window. I would have loved to Keep something stock. I paid $170 for the window shipped to my door, so if it sucks I guess I'm not out too much money.

I used Sika P2G sealant for the install.

 

Keep eyes peeled for local JY. One person on here was able to get a power slider for $150.

 

Actually it was even cheaper than that. Found the thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-window-replacement.92961/

I remember thinking 150, but it “was a couple at $75” or something, actually $175 total with install. Install was more than the used window.

 

Ask Mr.Bee

 

You’re only 1.5 years too late on that response.