Restoring Wrecked Tundra / Driveline Length issues

Hello,

Hoping someone has a answer to a problem I have. I'm restoring a wrecked 2010. Most damage has come from the back, some damage to the driveline and passenger side leaf spring. I've ordered a replacement driveline, identical to the original. Also replaced the passenger side leaf spring.

The replacement leaf spring it installed, but now my driveline is about 2" short to reaching the back axle. It's fitted properly into the transmission and center support bearing. I've been scratching my head on this issue. Transmission is not damaged or moved in any way. I've measured my friends same exact Tundra - from the transmission to the back axle and indeed my back axle sits further back allowing the driveline to not reach.

Not sure what is missing here, but would appreciate any help, ideas or suggestions.

Thank you

 

Is the axle properly located on the leafs and within the wheel wells? Are you positive the part number you ordered was for your cab, bed and drive configuration?

 

Yep I’m looking at leaf spring mount locations to the frame and the axle location inside the leaf. Something is not right here.

Should be a dowel/pin in the leaf that a bracket on the axle lines up too. Then the subplots secure it down

 

Hi Knabores

Yea, the leaf springs have a nut that sits right in a hole on the center diameter of the axle. The bed is currently off right now, so can't really see where it sits in relation to the wheel well. And yes the driveline is identical to the original. I've kept the original driveline and they match and measure exact. The bed is damaged so I have not yet installed it I will be taking it to a body shop to get it fixed.

 

Not sure if something will change when the bed get's put on? ... doesn't seem like it... the distance between the rear cup (where the driveline sticks in) of the transmission and the back axle flange is 92" 1/8
Correct Tundra stock sits at 90" 7/8.

 

I've also replaced the shocks. But everything is installed correctly in relation to the leaf springs. The driver side leaf spring was left untouched.

 

Does the driveline have a slip yoke? My 2000 does and can extend as necessary for wheel travel. Not sure if your 2010 does or not.

 

Can you post some photos of the back half of the frame, axle and driveline so we can get an idea of what the issue could be?

I’ve worked extensively on the the rear half of my truck, swapped leaves more times than I’d like to admit and maybe one of us can see what the issue is.

 

No slip yoke...Sorry for the delay - here are some pics -

 

You said you installed the passenger leaf, was the driverside ever removed?

Any chance the leafs are in backwards and need to be flipped 180 degrees?

I would measure from the alignment pin to the front of the leaf (center of mounting hole). Then do the same from center to the rear mount. You might difference in length to be the same as the gap in your driveshaft, meaning the leads need to be flipped.

 

And do you have shackles on the leafs?

 

Hi guys,

@Jeff_5_7 - no the driver side leaf springs were never touched, leaf springs have been confirmed and are in correctly (have inspected same model stock tundra, and they are in correctly)

@joonbug - yes the shackles have been put on, the bottom plate that holds the u-bolts is also the correct side.

Im thinking I should dismantle both leaf springs and shackles, line up and bolt on the driveline first, then try putting the leaf springs and shackles back on..

After that point the leaf springs maybe be too long, but might be able to displace distance by lifting truck up or adjusting the leaf spring. I feel like that's my only option at this point.

 

That would be my next move too.

 

What's the current wheelbase?

 

The driveshaft should have at least “some”give to compensate for the suspension movement, are you sure it’s not stiff or locked up where the movement is?

I know mine is two piece and does have a decent amount of forwards/rearward movement if manipulated.

Otherwise what Vinux777 said would also be my next course of action.

 

You mentioned measuring a friends truck and your axle is sitting further back. The front/rear leaf mounts locations and the alignment dowl pin in the leafs is the only thing that sets this.

I mention backwards leafs because another forum post had almost the exact same issue and his problem were the leafs were backwards.

Do you have photos of the damage to the truck from the wreck? Is it possible a leaf mount location or the driveshaft carrier bearing mount is bent? Could the entire frame be bent? Is the axle square in the frame rail?

Get the tape measure out and start studying closely. Some of these things you can’t just see visually.

A great point was made above about the wheelbase. You can look yours up by VIN. Then measure front center of front wheel to center of rear wheel on both sides. If it doesn’t meet factory spec your rear end is not properly located. If you have huge variations between each side the frame is bent or one of the leafs is backwards.

I would also be very closely looking at the rear end fitting into the alignment pins in the leaf. The photos look correct but it’s hard to tell for sure without being there.

FYI when @joonbug mentions shackles he means aftermarket rear leaf mount relocation brackets to lift the truck. Like these in the photo. I don’t see any in your photos however.

 

Sorry for the delay guys. I appreciate all the input and advice given. For future reference for anyone who has the same problem I was able to get a guy that works on suspensions.

The steps are as follows to fix the issue:

1. Loosen u-bolts and Attach front end leaf springs first. This would detach the leaf spring from axle

2. Lift leaf springs up from the center hole on axle if not done so already and move up axle to attach driveline.

3. Put shackles on , pull leaf spring forward as far as you can to reach axle placement hole to leaf spring center nubbin/nut. If cant reach still , compress leaf spring up with a jack to meet axle.

 

Inside that boot on the driveshaft is a slip yoke. It has to have one for the suspension to move.

This sounds like it was more of side hit but IDK. Regardless, you need to get under it and measure from equal frame points and confirm the frame is square. Do this by measuring from equal frame hole diagonally forming a big X. Repeat this from the forward spring perches to other fixed points. You should get equal numbers.

Now repeat from the axle perch where the spring sits forming a big X to a forward point. The numbers should be very close or you'll have tracking issues (i.e. crab walk).

Last little bit. As those springs compress and return, the slip yoke needs to have enough travel to not top out or bottom out. You should unbolt it and verify it has sufficient travel. If it binds up either direction it will vibrate something horrible.

GL.