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RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by RainMan_PNW, Oct 30, 2020.

  1. Nov 13, 2022 at 9:02 PM
    #691
    2point5seconds

    2point5seconds Wish I didn't have so much money

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    Sensei
    Nor Cal
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    2019 Tundra SR5 TRD 4WD Double Cab
    Icon Stage 9 lift, 700 pound rated Eibach spring, Sumo Springs (rear), RCI engine skid plate. RCI Lower Control Arm Skid Plates, RCI Transmission Skid Plate, RCI Cat Guards, Rago dash plate. RAM phone holder. Bed rails. Tint. 17x8 Icon Rebound wheels. 315/70/r17 Falken Wildpeaks. AAC Trigger 6 Shooter, midland MTX-115 radio, Chassis Unlimited front bumper, OLB Bar light and ditch lights, Baja Fog lights, Smittybilt winch, Husky floor liners, bed rail, Cali Raised Bed Stiffeners, driver's side grab handle, Wheeler's Offroad front bump stops, Decked Tool Box
    Sounds like I may need to take an electronics class. LOL. I used a multimeter but may have used it wrong. Watched alot of YouTube videos. Thanks for the information though!

    I haven't had any issues yet the the lights.
     
  2. Nov 17, 2022 at 5:35 PM
    #692
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    10k


    upload_2022-11-17_18-6-41.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2022
  3. Nov 17, 2022 at 5:59 PM
    #693
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    1/15th of the way to being broken in
     
  4. Nov 17, 2022 at 6:10 PM
    #694
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Oh, I’m way past 10k miles.
    By my math I’m just short of 1/7th of the way to matching what I had on my 2008.

    It is also hard to believe how much bullshit I’ve spewed in just over 2 years since joining here!
    upload_2022-11-17_18-11-22.jpg
     
  5. Nov 17, 2022 at 6:13 PM
    #695
    TRDFerguson

    TRDFerguson SSEM #99/RGBA #8-ish?/It’s a funny name.

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    D’oh, just realized what you meant lol. Congrats on that!!
     
  6. Dec 13, 2022 at 8:54 PM
    #696
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Clark County, WA
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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I've now got what I'm 99% sure is the ONLY USA-spec'ed Gen 2.5 TRD Pro with working parking assist (actually about two weeks ago, but I've been doing some testing on it to be sure it is working).
    I know it's not the first one with it installed (because I did the installation on another truck), but it is the first one that is working.

    More details to come, but some pictures:
    upload_2022-12-13_20-55-31.jpg
    13232116-1357-4008-BA23-9E5978C7F0AD.jpg

    I should add - this one was a bit of a bitch to do. And I'm not sold on the real utility of it since I've got front and rear cameras. But I did it. So there's that...

    Parts list:
    ABSOLUTELY REQUIRED
    • Wire Harness - Engine Room No 3 P/N 82113-0C040 (front corner)
    • Wire Harness - Engine Room No 4 P/N 82114-0C040 (front corner)
    • Wire Harness - Frame No 2 P/N 82165-0C100 (this is the rear bumper - I wasn't about to build my own for this. It also includes the wiring for the rear BSM radar)
    • Parking Sonar switch P/N 84490-0C011
    • Clearance Warning ECU P/N 89340-0C010
    • SIX Sonar Sensors P/N 89341-0R060 - and non-factory sensors seem to not work for shit
    • TWO Nut 90178-A0023 (or buy M6x1.0 flange nuts locally)
    • Instrument Cluster P/N 83800-0CT51 (38-gallon, non-flex fuel, w/ sonar) plus programming of your ODO to the new cluster
    • 2.3II sealed female terminals
    • 0.64II non-sealed female terminals
    OPTIONAL*
    • Bumper end caps (must get painted locally)
      • Front Bumper End Cap w/ sensor hole - Right P/N 52112-0C908
      • Front Bumper End Cap w/ sensor hole - Left P/N 52113-0C908
      • Rear Bumper End Cap w/ sensor hole - Right P/N 52155-0C903
      • Rear Bumper End Cap w/ sensor hole - Left P/N 52156-0C903
    • Rear Bumper Step Pad w/ sensor holes (don't know the P/N here because we ordered the wrong one on the other truck).
    *This assumes you already have resin bumpers. I don't know the part numbers for the non-resin ones, and if you are switching from chrome to resin you need other parts as well. This also assumes you want to buy new bumper parts instead of just drilling holes in your current ones. I have the CBI rear bumper that came with holes, but I drilled my front bumper holes.

    All-in, the REQUIRED parts run ~$2000 (finding deals, buying some used stuff off eBay, trying to get discounted shipping, etc.) The OPTIONAL parts are another ~$800 before figuring in paint. This is not a cheap mod for the (in my opinion) limited utility and function that this system provides.
    -------------------------------
    The first step in this mod (after figuring out that a specific model of instrument cluster is required) was to source a used instrument cluster. Additionally, I had to get a sonar ECU (found on ebay for about 1/2 price) and a parking sonar switch (also found on ebay for about 1/2 price). All of the wiring is in the cab (at least in the 2018+ models) for this installation.

    The switch goes in the lower section below the A/C and there is a connector behind one of the blanks for it - it will be obvious where it goes.

    The sonar ECU goes up behind the glove box, next to the Telematics Transceiver and near the 4WD and Trailer Brake ECUs. This spot is fun to get to, but the tear-down is fairly straightforward if you've ever looked at removing the glovebox (such as when changing out the center silver section of the dash). Getting the two M6 nuts onto the threaded studs to hold it in place and tightened down is best done with a micro-geared ratcheting wrench.
    upload_2023-1-15_19-14-34.jpg

    Finally, the Instrument Cluster can be replaced using the instructions from the Hypertech Speedometer calibrator installation. You will have to buy a cluster that has been programmed for your mileage, or you will need to find someone that can program it for you while the new cluster is out of the truck - it cannot be done using TechStream or any other means other than actually accessing the EEPROM chip in the cluster (I learned how to do it, but am not posting those instructions here).

    Once that is complete, you can test that the system is "preliminary functional" by starting the truck and pressing on the parking assist button. You should get an error message pretty much immediately (because you don't have any sensors plugged in) that looks like this:

    upload_2023-1-15_20-42-59.jpg

    Next, I had to replace the self-made harness I had done for the BSM in my rear bumper, because now I was also adding in the sonar. I had managed to find the harness I needed (82165-0C100) on ebay that was MOSTLY intact...there were two wires with damaged insulation on them (but the copper strands were not broken) for the CANBUS signal to the farthest BSM sensor close to the sensor. I split the loom, de-terminated the affected wires, slipped some marine adhesive-filled heat shrink over them and re-sealed the insulation over the damaged parts before putting it all back together (sorry - no pictures). I then routed that harness through my bumper and reconnected the two ends to the BSM sensors, and then popped the sonar sensors through the four holes in my CBI rear bumper and plugged in the sensors to the harness. (If you don't have an aftermarket bumper with holes, you'll need to either source the parts for the factory rear bumper or get some measurements from someone and drill your own holes).

    Moving on, I also decided that rather than run yet another wiring harness from the rear of my truck up into the engine bay, I would replace the one that I had previously run for my BSM with a new one that also included the needed three additional wires for the sonar as well. The new bumper harness was fully factory with both the SR1 and SR2 connectors per the original diagrams, so I also elected to rework my routing through those to match the factory setup (minus a few deviations in wire color).

    upload_2023-1-15_19-37-22.jpg

    upload_2023-1-15_19-37-40.jpg

    upload_2023-1-15_19-39-4.jpg

    upload_2023-1-15_19-45-48.jpg

    upload_2023-1-15_20-11-51.jpg
    (Yellow indicates new wires run, blue indicates deviations from factory wiring schematics)

    So I built a new loom (using 20AWG wires), re-terminated the wires into the existing SR1 connector and new SR2 connector (re-used my old one, but using factory positions), and reconnected to the R17 junction connector. Then I ran the loom along the frame (same route as previously) and up into the engine bay.

    upload_2023-1-15_20-43-52.jpg

    Moving on to the front of the truck - the lower front fender liner needs to be removed on both sides, similar to accessing the fog light bulbs. There are two screws along the side and two underneath that have 10mm heads, and one that has a 12mm head (if you still have your little front mud-flaps, then can stay connected). Then you also pop the plastic retainer "rivet" at the frame, and pivot the liner down while using a screwdriver to carefully pry the clips where the two vertical screws were (this will make sense when you see it on your truck).

    With this removed, you will see a connector that is attached to the front of the truck up toward the grill when looking in from each opening. This is where the two "engine room" wire harnesses connect - one for each side. They can only connect to the correct side, so there is no risk of switching them up. They then route along the top of the bumper end cap metal framing (there are two oval slots that they have retainer clips to clip into) and dangle in the area above the fog lights.

    If you are replacing the bumper caps with factory ones, you'll need to pull the grill and some other steps to actually fully remove those...I don't have those instructions. Instead, I drilled holes for mine...
    Put some blue tape on the bumper corners, and then measure down about 1" from where the cap "breaks" over near the top:
    [​IMG]

    From the where the edge of the corner "breaks" from the front curve of the bumper, you need to measure over 10":
    [​IMG]
    (picture credit @TRDFerguson )

    Chuck up a 7/8" hole saw, double and triple check your measurements and that things look the same on both corners, and pop a CAREFUL hole through the plastic.

    upload_2023-1-15_20-44-41.jpg

    Finally, snap in the front sensors and connect them to the wiring harnesses.

    upload_2023-1-15_20-45-21.jpg

    ----------------------
    Testing and troubleshooting

    The system "daisy chains" the front sensors, starting with the front passenger sensor as master and then the front driver sensor is the slave. In the back, the outward most passenger sensor is the master, and then passenger center, then driver center, then driver outboard. Additionally, the front sensors also seem to somehow control visibility of the back sensors - if a front sensor is bad, then it can cause the entire system to show warnings (as I found when I first turned it on with everything connected - I had to remove and replace the front passenger sensor and then the system would operate normally).

    Testing can be done with a stationary object - something like a garbage can or recycle bin, placed about 24" away from the sensor. Note that the front sensors are angled - they do not sense directly in front of the vehicle, but rather off the corners. Place the object out from the sensor, then get in the truck and put it into drive (for front testing) or reverse (for rear testing) and the dash should light up with the appropriate icon and distance, as well as beeping faster as the object gets closer to the sensor.

    In the rear, I found the indicators and beeps to roughly correlate to the three lines in the reverse camera - three orange marks and slower beeps at the furthest marker line, two orange marks and faster beeps at the middle marker line, and a single red mark and solid tone at the closest red marker line.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2023
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  7. Dec 13, 2022 at 9:30 PM
    #697
    RobertD

    RobertD SSEM#123, ASCM#4 "I call it Vera" ~Jayne Cobb

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    As always, nicely done!
     
    TaquitoBandito likes this.
  8. Dec 13, 2022 at 10:38 PM
    #698
    Y0TA PR0

    Y0TA PR0 Dirt biking & fishing

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    Nicely done! Looks awesome!
     
  9. Dec 14, 2022 at 1:33 AM
    #699
    hiimbrando

    hiimbrando Chop shop owner / Degenerate car part buyer.

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    Dallas, Texas
    Are those the backlit rigid pods?
     
  10. Dec 14, 2022 at 5:40 AM
    #700
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Baja Designs S8 light bar has the amber backlights
     
  11. Dec 14, 2022 at 8:19 AM
    #701
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    unless you’re in the bird box.. then it’s priceless.

    maybe you should do the #birdboxchallenge with your pro :devil:
     
  12. Dec 20, 2022 at 7:39 AM
    #702
    THORYOTA

    THORYOTA God of Thunder

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    Asgard
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    Was your FRAC harness long enough to reach the console area?

    I'm about to move my rear slider and camera switches.
     
  13. Dec 20, 2022 at 5:48 PM
    #703
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I bought the ABC camera setup and made my own harness for routing the switch down to the shifter area. At the time, the FRAC wasn’t available with the OEM style switch.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2023
  14. Dec 21, 2022 at 5:34 AM
    #704
    THORYOTA

    THORYOTA God of Thunder

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    Thanks, homie.

    Side nugget: today's wordle is very you.
     
  15. Jan 15, 2023 at 4:08 PM
    #705
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Another weekend, another quick one knocked out.
    I've been having a few random issues with the LED tail and brake light bulbs that I had, so I was starting to look at the Hot Tails from HotShot.

    Installation is pretty straightforward. All of the sockets on the Tundra are 4-slot sockets, so you use two screws per VLED bulb (but they’ll come already set up from HSOR.

    I put everything together in the taillight housing and then went back out and popped them back into the truck. Easy peasy Japanesey - maybe 20 minutes all-in including me cleaning up the area around the light housing and prying my older resistors from the truck and sticking on the new VLED resistors in place.

    Harness for the upper/lower brake/tail bulbs
    6B678035-751E-455A-BB7A-24E62297B3AC.jpg

    Harness for the switchback turn/reverse bulb
    A78D6CF1-E4F0-47CA-B17B-4815124D216B.jpg

    just tail lights
    upload_2023-1-15_16-27-33.jpg

    Brake lights
    upload_2023-1-15_16-28-46.jpg

    Turn signals


    And reverse
    upload_2023-1-15_16-31-4.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2023
    biebs96, welshmike, Patch999 and 7 others like this.
  16. Jan 15, 2023 at 4:26 PM
    #706
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    Nice!
    Just left the old resistors. On my “to do” list to remove them :anonymous:.
     
  17. Jan 15, 2023 at 8:48 PM
    #707
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    OK - just finished up the parking sonar write-up. It's far from my best write-up, and not a lot of pictures, but I was pretty much "over it" when I was wrapping it up.

    And, for what it's worth, I no longer have the only US-spec TRD Pro with sonar (that I know of)...I was in TX two weekends ago finishing up the installation on project "Chatha1" to get it fully functional on that truck as well.
     
  18. Jan 21, 2023 at 8:13 AM
    #708
    Green Thunder

    Green Thunder Smooth in the Cruise

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    Food crumbs and dog fur
    I forbid you from posting any more pics of that rear bumper...even on your build thread. That thing is like J-Lo's azz...it just draws you in and makes you forget how to breath.
     
  19. Jan 28, 2023 at 8:50 PM
    #709
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Swapped out my key fob to the new ME-SO v2 in Lunar Rock
    https://mesocustoms.com/products/minimalist-key-fob-v2

    71E23FDD-0A24-4A5B-9FAC-C5A666B07151.jpg 1CBBCE7E-EA0E-407E-A9E0-ED5B967570C1.jpg

    Compared to the AJT v2, this one is very slightly narrower and very slightly longer. It is noticeably thicker though, because of how the actual key slides into the back. Overall, I like the setup, and the built in beer bottle opener (you remove the key to use it) is an added bonus
     
    WawaLunar, Patch999, Meso and 8 others like this.
  20. Jan 28, 2023 at 8:52 PM
    #710
    TaquitoBandito

    TaquitoBandito SSEM #91, KitKat Aficionado, A Dancer for Money Exotic Dancer

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    Dammit Casey. Quit doing shit I can actually afford.

    (I do like how you matched the Bifmobile with it)
     
  21. Jan 28, 2023 at 8:53 PM
    #711
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    I can send you my old cement AJT one…
     
  22. Jan 28, 2023 at 8:54 PM
    #712
    TaquitoBandito

    TaquitoBandito SSEM #91, KitKat Aficionado, A Dancer for Money Exotic Dancer

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    I have that one in Army Green. :fistbump:
     
  23. Jan 28, 2023 at 8:54 PM
    #713
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Great color!
     
  24. Jan 28, 2023 at 9:36 PM
    #714
    Green Thunder

    Green Thunder Smooth in the Cruise

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    Food crumbs and dog fur
    How’s the size compared to the OEM? It looks longer and narrower in the picture.
     
    Meso likes this.
  25. Jan 29, 2023 at 10:00 AM
    #715
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    MESO (v2) vs OEM
    2545BBE7-AE81-43E0-B259-68FB45827965.jpg 1EC14C8D-C751-4291-8FFB-01AB168FED71.jpg 6DFE4DC2-0643-47F3-AC4B-621DC560C49C.jpg

    FWIW, here is AJT (v2) vs OEM
    E202D0BA-321F-4CA7-83B4-4FA0621D0915.jpg
    68FC2758-6E7E-4771-B982-3C815C18DA48.jpg
    4EEB77E0-FF1E-48BB-A6CF-CCF065F0272C.jpg
     
    WawaLunar, Fotnot, RobertD and 5 others like this.
  26. Jan 29, 2023 at 10:58 AM
    #716
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr guzzling dealer repellent

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    Nice. My AJT activates the buttons of the casing when lightly squeezed. It activates the button nearest to where it is squeezed. Granted, the OEM case does, too, but I have to squeeze it significantly harder. Does the Meso do it as well?

    I reached out to AJT about it, and they basically said I could send it in on my dime and they’d take a look, but it sounds normal.
     
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  27. Jan 29, 2023 at 1:57 PM
    #717
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I’ve never noticed my AJT one do that (a little over two years in my pocket). I don’t think I used the factory one more than a week, and never noticed it with it either.

    regardless, I just tried squeezing this one all over the place and didn’t get any activations. :notsure:
     
  28. Feb 11, 2023 at 4:05 PM
    #718
    WillTunBlack20

    WillTunBlack20 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2022
    Member:
    #73466
    Messages:
    73
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    William
    Houston, Tx.
    Vehicle:
    2020 Tundra TRD PRO Midnight Black
    Grille Lights, Bumper Lights, Front Facing Camera, Interior Upgrade, Leer Topper
    Thank You @RainMan_PNW, and @james@tech12volts, completed the JBL-8 installation, instructions were on point, and pictures saved me a great deal of time, installation was about 2 hours, with the seat jackers, system sounds Great, still tweaking it to my #Jazz music, will tidy up wiring soon.

    26CB0994-55BD-4EB6-BE6C-1AA810270809.jpg
    7E9DBA55-D50A-41FB-9C76-9E6B819E804F.jpg
     
  29. Feb 11, 2023 at 7:12 PM
    #719
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2020
    Member:
    #54134
    Messages:
    14,887
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Busy week/weekend…
    Knocked out:
    Re-install of my parking sonar ECU (had removed it to take with me to troubleshoot a different truck)
    Re-install of my parking sonar Instrument Cluster (had removed it to take with me to troubleshoot a different truck)
    Installed Rago dash plate with dual USB power supply
    Swapped out my winch power cutoff switch for a dual-switch (the lower button will be for the VSC auto-disable that is coming soon)
    Ran wiring in preparation for my manual reverse light over-ride
    Added an on/off switch to the auto-fold function on my mirrors
    Operation “no t-taps anywhere in my truck” completed

    Also wrapped up the install of BSM on another member’s truck about 1-1/2 hours south of me.
     
  30. Feb 11, 2023 at 8:07 PM
    #720
    Tripleconpanna

    Tripleconpanna Just an X who bought Bud Light from Target

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2021
    Member:
    #70515
    Messages:
    8,018
    Gender:
    Male
    PNW
    Vehicle:
    2021 TRD PRO CM; 2008 SR5 CM
    Where did you get your power on the Rago dual USB??
     

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