1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

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Lucas 75w-90 for the t-case and front diff. Buy this or use the part numbers for the gaskets:

$7 Differential and Transmission Drain Plug Crush Washers Gaskets Compatible with 4Runner T acoma T undra FJ Cruiser Land Cruiser, Replacement for The Part# 12157-10010 90430-24003 90430-18008

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFJ24WD?ie=UTF8

 

Cool, posting that image from scAmazon to keep part numbers handy.

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I don't get why Toyota doesn't make the washer for the transfer case an aluminum crush gasket instead of a flat washer. Who wants to bother checking torque numbers on a fill/drain?

 

Thought the later trucks (04-06) called for 75w140 in the rear diff. Or is it only the 2wd trucks?

 

Went Royal Purple in my gear cases last time around. It was on sale for 12.99/qt at the Irish auto parts. No other reason than that. Full synth. May never have to change it again.

 

I still have royal purple in my diffs but last I checked it was on the bottom end of good stuff to use so I may change to something else next time.

 

technically the 2WD models did have different diffs.. they had the flange with a funky damper on it... no idea on ratios

 

I'm using Lucas 85-140 in my only diff per the cool write-up at East Coast Diffs on temps. I must be crazy because I never changed a crush washer in at least 4 oil replacements. And no torque wrench just feel. I'll say uncle if anything ever leaks.

 

I was using R.P too and you are correct. The staff at East Coast Gear Supply said it was one of the worst in their opinion. I've been running Lucas for a few years now.

 

Did the same on mine! Other than the one that was missing a washer all together. No leaks either

 

I'm 95% sure my diff plugs have no washer. I just torque to spec and haven't had issues. I should probably order some.

 

Here is that ESGS write up on gear oil in case anyone missed it last time it was mentioned.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-2536-ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation.html

 

You won’t know for sure until you take the plug out and look for it rusted to the bottom side of the plug. I thought that myself originally as well.

 

I only replace every 2nd or 3rd OC if not a crush washer. I always try to have half one crush washer for every 2-3 filters on-hand. Right now, have 6 filters, 2 crush washers.

I was always of the mindset crushwashers were more about saving threads on your pan/enclosure. They create a torque cushion. But I've never actually looked up the purpose, I just make a point of changing the 1st time I'm in something, then every 2nd or 3rd removal after.

Dunno, they're showing three different options as 'compatible' in most cases. Here's what they list for my '06, for front diff, rear LSD, and tc, in that order. Looks like they're saying I could go 75w110 or 80w90 for all three if I really wanted, seems like overkill to me though. only 10% more per qt for 75w110 though (WARNING EDIT: I ended up with chatter using synthetic fluids with my LSD rear, don't do it! Just use Lucas 80w90, it works, no chatter. No amount of slip additive was helping get rid of chatter, just ... it's not worth it!):

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I plan to use whale squeezings in my front diff, and seal squeezings in the rear (because lsd).

 

So my "tl;dr" read on this is ...

Skip anything in the red box. For the green box, Toyota's OEM fluids are solid & competent, Mobil 1 synthetic is better than Toyota, Amsoil severe duty and Redline shockproof are identical with Lucas a notch above. For anyone that's colorblind, my apologies, I should've opted for better colors.

Sounds like as long as you go with something in the green box or their Lucas reco, you'll see at least OEM uality, or increasingly better. I originally intended just to go Mobile 1, they're usually my go-to oil of choice, so I feel better knowing what I planned to use 2 years ago would've been fine.

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At this point, you should call up a gear manufacturer and have them cut you a pair of 3.55's. Make both first gears earn their keep.

 

Or just say "SCREW IT!" and buy some LSD instead, gobble it down, and not give a diff anymore.

 

Locker. A rear locker in 2wd was pretty impressive on wumbo's truck. But i'm biased, because if i had a fun switch on my axle i'd most definitely abuse it.

 

Well, I ended up heeding ECGS' advice, and going with what GL-5 synthetic I could get heavily-discounted locally, and a brand I trust. Opted for Mobil 1 75w-140 LS.

It's one of my preferred brands, designed for limited slip applications, good additive package, locally available, roughly same cost as Amsoil Severe Gear. Except I got almost $50 off using my $10 SpeedPerks and - fyi to anyone reading this - a limited-time 25% off coupon for Advance Auto Parts, code: 755Z1.

Out the door w/7qt + tax + free ship @ $120. If you need auto parts right now, you may want to take advantage of that 25% off code.

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PNWhandledemonium starting soon. Step 1, rear brakes on the minivan.

 

Minivans need brakes? How fast can they go?

 

Hmm, replace? Seems like maybe.

 

Flex seal!

 

Definitely replace

 

Ooh. Not a shallow cut.

 

I'd put it on the back and send it.

 

Always on sidewall damage. If the tire wasn't distorted on both sides of the gash it'd be way tougher for me to say.

Once that thing heats up after a few dozen miles on the road, it's liable to prolapse itself.

 

without the cars, you gots trouble.

https://youtu.be/dKwnE_jR8l8?t=17

does anyone recall Harold & Maude?

 

LOL

Isn't that movie clip from Harold & Maude? Yup. That movie was full of Cat Stevens songs. Don't get me wrong, I generally like his pre-conversion-era music.

Have you ever watched that movie? Hello, Missus Robinson.