Another trailer question

We are looking at a new TT. Its a Rivers Edge Salem 27RK. UVW is 6,863lb, hitch weight is 955lb, exterior length comes in at 33'6" and CCC is 1,092lb. I would run a good WD hitch and add airbags for extra level. Is this asking to much for a 2019 Tundra limited ? This will be our first TT, Ive pulled trailers with quads, single and double bike trailers with Harley dressers in. I know this is a whole new world which is why i'm asking questions. length of travel may go from 150-900 miles on varying highways and states. We live in western Pa. to start things out. Would it be better to go smaller IE lighter ? Thanks all !

 

That’s a really long trailer. The Tundra is a heavy truck, but I think you’re looking at being bullied quite a bit by the wind.

If you’re dead set on that trailer, then I think you need a bigger truck.

 

I can tell you your trailer hitch loaded weight will batteries and propane will be over 1,200 lbs.
I would look for a travel trailer with a box length under 24' , and with dry hitch weight not over 600 lbs.
Last time I towed a Travel trailer with a hitch weight over 1,200 lbs, I was driving a F350.

 

What's the payload of your truck as per the sticker inside the driver's door? That 995 lbs dry trailer tongue weight is going to eat is most of it before you've put anyone or anything in the truck or trailer.

 

Another consideration, Toyota eliminated the transmission cooler in 2019. There are great aftermarket options from vendors right here on tundras.com.

 

We tow our Grand Design Imagine 2500RL with a 2018 CM. It’s right at 30’ OAL and lighter than yours. We do use a quality WDH and it is set up well. I did have airbags, but removed them since the WDH did what I want. The bags were more beneficial when I had OEM rear springs…. I also have LRE tires on the truck, as well as the trailer. That made a massive difference!

I don’t feel like the tail is wagging the dog when I tow. I live in western Oregon, and all we have is hills. Hills with corners…. It does better than I expected, but it’s no HD one-ton!

we took it as far east as Montana and Wyoming last summer without a single concern.

All that said, I think your trailer is too big and heavy for a Tundra. I feel like mine is as large and heavy as I’d feel safe with. And to be honest, I’m almost certainly a little “overloaded”.

 

I am pulling a 32' TT with a GVWR of 8500 lbs (current actual 7800 lbs) and a claimed hitch weight of 726 lbs as built/680 lbs per the sales literature (current actual 1,000 lbs). I have LRE tires on the Tundra and the trailer and, as Chad said, it helped a lot. I am running RAS instead of air bags which also helped and am using an Equalizer 4 point WDH. I am careful with the loading of the trailer, don't haul much of anything in the truck besides my wife and I and the two dogs and maintain my speed at 60-65mph max. Have towed over 8,000 miles on some very long trips with significant grades and I'm happy with the performance. Strong, gusting cross-winds can be a challenge (think west Texas). I plan my travel times to avoid the worst of it and reduce speed. So it can be done safely but you need to manage the details.

EDIT: I didn't think to mention it but I always run with all tanks empty. If all tanks were full, that would add another 1500 lbs.

 

I'm surprised at the lack of payload on your chosen trailer. It may be easy to overload it especially if the fresh water tank is full. The location of the water tank means a lot when it comes to tongue weight. For example mine is under the bed in the front and can be partially filled to help keep the Tundras weight down. With the rear kitchen arrangement packing food will help reduce the tongue weight but that pass through in the front will easily offset any advantage of weight carried in the rear. There are only so many large lightweight items like lawn chairs you will pack.
It's possible you can pack the trailer and truck to squeeze in just under payload but then you will be very limited on what you can pack.

My 23' box TT weighs 6,080 gross with 1,800# payload and I can just barely get in under the 7,200# GVWR of my 21 SR5. That's by only partially filling the fresh water tank. It's so close to being too light on the tongue I can move two cases of drinking water inside the trailer and feel the difference.

 

you will be over payload.

 

Just gonna drop this here:

 

You ever pull that thing through the mountains out West? How does your truck handle it?

 

Pulled it up and down Petit Jean mountain here (mountain is a stretch, maybe 1000' of climb) pretty steep and windy. Truck did great, better than my buddy's 5.3 GMC which really struggled to pull his trailer of similar size. Braking was good too with engine braking and trailer brakes adjusted. No serious out west mountain ranges, wouldn't have bought this truck for this trailer, or this trailer for this truck if that was my use case.

 

Anything with a hitch weight at 1000 lbs is a no go

 

Been there. First trailer was a 2004 sandpiper toy hauler 30ft hitch to tail, used airbags and a pricey weight distribution/anti sway setup (propride).

Hitch weight was similar and it weighed in almost 7k dry. With gear, water and fuel over 8.5k (without a razor/side by side). These older.models are heavy compared to thr current ultra lights. I exceeded my trucks payload cap.

Can the truck pull it, yea, really well actually, and with some aftermarket brakes, rotors, and a P3 it would stop perfectly. Would I buy and tow a trailer that heavy again in Tundra...NO. I like dry camping, so I have to haul everything I need in it. So either a smaller trailer, a large ultra lite, or a bigger truck.

If your set on doing it, you have to manage your weight, tire pressures, and distribution so you have a stress free trip, white-knuckling during the vacation drive sucks.

 

I'd be more concerned about being able to stop and maneuver it than being able to pull it.

 

What you say is true for many people that don't have the inclination or ability to understand and manage the details, however, blanket statements like this don't help anybody. Why? Because someone else will always say....."Hell yes, you are good to go!" Again, without providing any detail or context. We need to help people understand the implications of what they are proposing and the resulting limitations. Just saying it's against policy or the famous "you'll be over payload" doesn't clarify anything. They already know that. They are looking for practical reasons why it won't work.

 

Absolutely agree. Your concerns are always the main ones overlooked. Can the truck tow it, yea, how it handles, and can it stop are another story. I phrased my post using the cliche of "my truck can pull this". Similar to "can't even tell its back there". That's why I mentioned the brakes and rotors.

I remember my first trip towing my trailer. I was so ignorant and let my wife's friends husband setup my rig. NEVER let anyone set yourstuff up I learned.

 

If it is well within the 9X00 lb trailer weight limit that Toyota sets for a 4wd crewmax, then Toyota is also saying the truck is rated to stop it.

Long term wear on the semi-floating rear axle from being over on the hitch weight would be my main concern, with handling right behind. One can mitigate the handling with suspension and tire upgrades and a WDH.

 

Gotta start with smart choices in regard to payload, trailer weight and size, what the expected use of the trailer is, towing setup and equipment. Then, and this is really an important X-factor, you gotta make good decisions once you start towing your setup. If your gonna tow big, you have to make concessions when you're driving. Don't expect to tow safely at 75mph. Don't expect the truck to handle "like it's not back there" IT IS BACK THERE!!! Most on here tow for recreation and for short distances, house to boat ramp, house to campsite. Being close to the numbers isn't as big a deal if the use case is short distance, level ground etc and good driving habits are used. When your use case gets more extreme, longer distance and more elevation change, your equipment should be more extreme to match that. Be safe and be smart people.

 

Thank you all for the replies. I think we will be looking for a shorter lighter trailer. I mentioned new truck and the Tundra isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Luckily we just are starting this thinking/looking process and didn’t jump foolishly. Thanks again.

 

I take the CAT scale weights and verify rear axle against max. Regarding brakes, when you are towing a heavy load, you need to downshift when appropriate and approach the grade at the correct speed. If you are going downhill with your foot riding the brake, that's a problem. Your brakes will be smoking at the bottom. I also keep a close eye on my pads, rotors and fluid from a maintenance viewpoint. If you aren't into that, you definitely need a bigger truck. In fact, there might not be a truck big enough.

 

It’s pretty simple math. Over payload doesn’t require an explanation. It’s crystal clear. You do you

 

I will, thank you. Out there in the real world, we all face "rules". Some just comply without question. I have never been one of those folks. I have always tried to understand and being a retired engineer, I have studied this issue. I was the Director of QA at a multinational pharma company and guess what....I made the rules. When folks that worked in my organization had to resort to saying, "We have to do it that way because that's the policy or the rules", I was very disappointed. That answer is never good enough. One should understand why.

 

I stick to the 80 percent rule. Setup should be at the most 80 percent of max. It's a good, safe rule to follow and leaves wiggle room. If you are towing overweight and think you are safe, you are not, and you are a danger to others.
Besides all that, I never understood the need to be towing an apartment complex down the road....that's not camping!

 

Funny you mention the 80% rule. The Bell curve represents roughly 80% as being the majority of what's being referenced. That's likely where most people will be comfortable towing with their understanding and experience level, at 80% of the vehicle's rated ability. It's a smart number for the masses.

 

Here's your clarification on "you'll be over payload." He had 25000 "trouble free" miles until he didn't. It won't be obvious or glaring, and that's how everybody justifies it. Doesn't help you when the bill for going beyond the posted limitations of the vehicle comes due.



That's a dually one ton, and he was over payload.

 

Yes, I've seen that picture on the interweb....haven't talked to anybody that knew this guy. What are the details?

 

This scenario gives me so many more questions than answers. Exactly what truck was this camper made for?? And what's up with a 5th wheel trailer without wheels in the bed of a truck? I read the story, If there's a model of that truck with that payload rating, it likely rides on the same or similar frame setup. His featured truck has eaten his payload up and he is likely as much as 1000# over. But his frame broke at the fulcrum point after off-road driving this bo-hemeth likely inducing more dynamic load and stress than on-road use would have. Again, this is an extreme setup, did not drive it smart. Just assumed he was good with the numbers (He wasn't as he used the advertised and not his door sticker) and sent it. IT'S BACK THERE PEOPLE!!! Don't pretend it's not.