What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Solo lca’s.

 

That's just how they look, or they come with a skid? Their website doesn't show that.

 

So I put the seal in and it's better but still not making a perfect seal. The bottom left and right sections circle bow out. I am wondering if I can make some sort of gap closing latch or something to pull this tighter. Also spray dow those stripped anchor point bolts this morning to try and extract this evening and put the RTV on the drain holes.

Better but not perfect. You can see that it makes a good connection in the middle and then progressively worse towards the bottom edges. The top section seals tight. I could prob build up just that edge with EPDM rubber too.

 

I have the skid row set on the belly too but the LCA’s are just straight up SOLO.

 

Well made an attempt to get the left nut off the driver’s side downstream O2 sensor and was successful.

Not so much on the right side. I rounded that a little with the box wrench slipping off.

More driving and rust lubricant to shock it into submission. Don’t want to have to buy a nut grabber socket if I don’t need it or worse, cut the nut and try to remove the stud.

 

Nut splittter.

Any time my nuts don't cooperate, nut splitter solves that prob.

 

It must just be the picture. It looks like you have a skid plate mounted to the LCA. Bumper looks great!

 

They make LCA skids for other Toyotas. I'll be honest, I don't fully understand the appeal because they decrease ground clearance. LCAs are pretty beefy and can take some hits as is I think.

 

Just re-torqued my ubolts, thanks @Sunnier for keeping me safe. I went with 80, hope that is ok? Had to use a 3/4 since my set of 6 didn’t have a 22 but it seemed to be safe enough. And my wrench was too long to go from behind, had to attack it with the wrench facing forward. Hit just a little on the grip end but I managed ok. Definitely not super easy.

 

Shot of the LCA for @FirstGenVol

 

Agreed. I just watched a video discussing things you don't need for your "overlanding" rig and that was one of them. The guy is a mechanic. He said a lot of times he pulls off LCA skids and water and mudd pour out. They trap all the junk that would normally drain out.

 

Will it work on a good M8 nut (not rusted beyond surface rust) that’s just rounded?

 

Dont split your m8's nuts. Its frowned upon.

 

I just watched a video of a guy splitting one that was slightly larger and broke the nut splitter tool. Probably wise to cut a channel into the nut with a dremel first.

 

Re-reading during my stop. Looks like oval dogs are up for grabs. I’ll figure out who asked for them, maybe rusty? Sorry I’m missing stuff, trying to focus on driving.

BFF = brute force fab. I’ll post better photos in the armor thread once I’m home. Front bumper sticks out further than I really want but I could potentially stuff driving lights on top, perhaps a pair of SS5’s. Though, to be honest, low beam perf is what I desire most. Even with a harness and nice bulbs it’s not incredible. I’ll try to track down some 100w’s and I definitely need to aim them as I’m rolling more rake now than before.

wish this truck had adaptive cruise. An add on module would be killer. Seems potentially doable, it could just track the desired max speed and adjust up/down based on LiDAR.

 

I was driving behind adaptive cruise, great for the truck you are following, less great when you don't have it, lol.

 

with a bumper like that you can make the people in front of you adapt to your speed.

 

I have to catch up, but did you post a truck pic? I can't wait.

 

Arse end is before the front bumper went on.

 

AWESOME - are you pumped? Rears springs look great.

 

Adaptive cruise is terrible on curvy roads/highway as you come up around curves of slower traffic it thinks they're in your lane.

Drove me nuts in my brother in laws tacoma going to Reno and back.

 

Jason said he was finally happy with the suspension.

drives really nice. I haven’t done anything fun yet because I have 3 bicycles in the back separated by cardboard and a 2nd Gen front bumper with just a tiny bit of bubble wrap. Don’t want any more damage than necessary to the cargo.

I keep forgetting to check on the energy suspension mounts. I think he did them but I figure I should look that over.

also one bed bolt is hand tight as we were working on the D ring setup but I don’t have a big torx socket. Hoping 7 is enough to hold the bed on.

 

Also my spare somehow fits under the bed. Not sure how he did that voodoo. I think the crossbar is there. Shocks are in. Hangers too. No air tank yet of course.

 

Our trucks are almost twins. White, BFF bumper, camper shell, sliders, sex appeal.

I need to get a rear bumper.

 

When I added D rings, several bolts got loose. I pulled them and added loctite and cranked them

 

I believe you have better paint and nice blackout decals. My paint shop hookup is over since it was in San Diego so I’m starting from scratch on that stuff. Minus the SR5’s they put on when I picked up my shell.

I might cave and repaint in quicksand. Trying to hold off on that because the engine bay won’t match and I’ll be sad.

 

It's hard to tell from pictures but your paint looks good from here. If you haven't already tried it, you might be able to get more shine from paint correction. It helped mine. I would like to paint mine eventually also. Picking a new color would be very difficult. Timberland mica is still one of my favorites that they only offered in 2006. It's rare. I think we've only had one or two members with that color. Army green is pretty sweet too.

 

Paint the bottom tan and call it good.

 

Oh yeah, front bumper on the clovis stop, not sliders. It's been a jason's for quite awhile tho right? Trucks lookin killer btw. Were you the one that sold his 1st gen to a friend, and bought it back like 10 years later? or someone else...