General Supercharger Thread

How did this turn out? I’m thinking about the fender vent idea.

 

revisiting water:

So, driving to work today, it started to rain mid way....

IAT went down ~2 degrees when the rain started. ~2 degrees. full rain. steady @ 60mph.

so, pouring a sh1t ton of water over the I/C does NOTHING.

 

Still waiting on my liners to execute this but maybe I'll do it sooner since you inquired lol. I'll keep you posted.

 

If it sounds good to you, you should go for it. A lot of people seem to swear by them. They whine pretty loud which is cool. There’s a few guys with the Whipple I see on Facebook. Only saw 1 guy really had any issues that I saw reported so far. His heat exchanger (in the front, not in the blower) was leaking, and at 18k he had something fail that caused backlash between the rotation of the pulley and the rotors (similar to a failed coupler) but I read whipples don’t use plastic couplers like the Eaton systems, so it was something else. The warranty covered it, but he did say their customer service wasn’t great. They had it back to him repaired in 2.5 weeks. Anything could happen with any of them though.

 

just burning some internet time...

Whipple.

See, the Tundra is best suited for the Magnuson install...easy fit and finish - proven performance.

The Harrop is another choice, nice fit and finish. tunable just like the Mag.

I like the way the Mag spools faster, you can see it in the performance.

both blowers get you to the grenade threshold of ~600WHP. and they do it well.


the Whipple, in all that i've seen, does not produce the same low end TQ as the previous mentioned.

it will do everything else.

but see...I want the low end TQ. I've seen a couple installs on youtube that had weird TQ numbers. once you get past ~4k rpms, it gets normal.

and it's easy to explain, as the whipple has a different compression function...kinda like squeezing a toothpaste tube.

The mondo numbers you see on other whipples is because it's a 3L blower on a big engine.

The Pkg that Mag & Harrop offer is very hard to beat. consistent & reliable. (harness excluded)


However - I stand optimistic that someone will whipple a Tundra and produce decent numbers. and I bet they look just like the numbers we have all put up....and I bet the TQ number will look wonky <4k.

 

I have a HP tune from ViktorG, I hope he would retune (for his fee) the truck after the SC & I feel like he would be able to get good results from the Whipple.


Thanks!

 

I had a great idea, so decided to google if it exists already and it looks like it does. An electronically controlled supercharger bypass valve! It would allow you to throw a tiny ass pulley on there and get the rotors spinning faster and into their efficient range sooner. This would also let you to set the max boost at whatever you want and just bypass as needed to maintain it. I wonder if this can be integrated into our blowers. I found a magnuson one, haven’t done any further reading, but had to share it here as I was so excited lol. Guess I can run a 70mm pulley after all, if this could be installed on a Harrop! It would also be perfect for you guys at elevation, and everyone with a Mag could install the @snivilous special 2” pulley. What do you guys think of this? https://www.westbenddyno.com/product/boost-controller-kit-for-magnuson-superchargers-by-smoothboost/

 

Huh that's an interesting idea! But not for $1000 lmao.

 

I posted this once before, but curious if anyone has done this on the Tundra? I did it on the Taco s/c and did hear the "tink" sound to indicate its adjusted properly. Same bypassvalve on the Tundra, but it's in front instead of behind the s/c

Boost Bypass valve adjustment:
(Thanks to @Roostfactor):
A very difficult adjustment to do with the blower in place, but simple to do when the blower is off the vehicle due to it's location. The valve which is in charge of sealing the blower manifold to build boost pressure or allow vacuum during cruising and idle situations is maladjusted from the factory on most of these superchargers. They allow boost bleed out during full wide open throttle situations and are costing you boost. Adjust for better performance. Note: Adjustment to allow for a fully closed bypass valve at wide open throttle will cause slightly leaner readouts. I personallypicked up .3 leaner points in my AFR.

Adjustment is performed via the small Allen head stud which the bypass valve lever stops on when WOT is engaged. Adjust counter clockwise to allow for further valve butterfly stop. You can physically feel the valve bind when you have went to far. Back it out just a hair and you'll hear a solid "tink" sound, which is your good to go audible indicator that it is fully adjusted and ready for playtime. Call it a day and it's all done and sealing better.

(Note: The blower is upside down in this photo, and the Allen head which requires adjustment has pink loctite on the threads of it.) This adjustment is accurate to a properly adjusted valve and is exactly where mine is adjusted toas well when I hear the audible "tink" sound.

 

Agreed it is probably a bit overpriced. Just think how convenient that would be though, especially in your case. You wouldn’t even have to swap to a larger pulley if you travel down to sea level and worry about over boosting. That video in their website also shows it being used on a Whipple. I bet it can be used on any blower if you make the right mounting setup for it. It’s basically allows you to control the supercharger boost just like turbo boost control. Really cool.

 

You installed one of these aftermarket electronic bypass valve controllers on a taco blower? Or you mean you adjusted the factory bypass valve actuator?

 

Bypass valve adjustment. Before going off to try other valve thingies

 

I don't disagree at all, and I think it's a neat idea. Luckily I avoided $1000 by spending $1000 to have two pulley options already lmao

 

I could see attaching this to a sensor & programming it to different throttle situations.

 

i.e. maybe it could help my inability to properly press the skinny pedal & bring the boost early?

 

That’s the other thing, with the rotors spinning so much faster on a smaller pulley, I could be hitting my 7.5-8psi max boost way earlier in the RPMs, instead of waiting for the engine RPM to speed up the rotors to the point of achieving max boost. There is probably a huge potential for more power under the curve. This could mean instead of hitting my 8psi max at 4,000+ rpm I could hit it closer to 3000 rpm, but who knows exactly. I could probably figure out the airflow CC with some math as far as a ratio of what CCs I’m pumping at 4K with an 80mm vs what RPM would give the same CCs on a 65 or 70mm pulley.

 

I just did some basic math after watching my acceleration video. I currently hit my peak 8psi at 5800 RPM. That’s with an 80mm pulley, and at that speed the rotors are spinning 11,231 RPM. I can achieve the same rotor speed with a 70mm pulley at just 5000 RPM…..or with the smallest 65mm pulley at 4700 RPM. My boost gauge only goes in whole numbers, so this range may be even broader than I’m able to clearly see. At a minimum I’d say these would be the differences in RPM for achieving at least 8psi. Sorry, nerding out over here. I just think it’s a cool idea.

 

These arrived way faster than I was expecting! And they are amazing!!

















Everything so far checks out great! I have a new coupler and belt too, though I forgot to order bolts and only have some overly long 4-40s so I'll either cut those down or if the pulleys aren't ready for installation by 11am tomorrow I'll have a batch of A286 4-40 x 5/8" showing up like it's designed for. The hub bore size is spot on, in the drawing I called out .001" undersize so I can open it up if needed and to compensate for their +-1 tolerancing.

The Tundra is currently getting new tires installed, so hopefully I get it back tonight and can pull the blower snout off otherwise this will be a tomorrow party. I am so excited! These turned out so good!!!

 

Yeeeeeeehaw!!!!

 

interested to see some before/after dragy times reported.

 

Well, there goes my motor Good thing I've been contributing to my short block piggy bank like @Downytide

 

What’s the guess on how much boost at sea level with a 2” pulley, 12+?

 

Viktor was getting like 15psi with his 2" and a 1.1x crank overdrive iirc, but I don't know what elevation he's at. I want to say I've seen 10psi with my URD 2.35" pulley (they claim 2psi, and stock should be 7psi so kind of makes sense?) but I don't know if I trust that. And then to further confuse things, as you've pointed out the boost curve isn't linear. I've read LSA blowers max out around 15psi and spinning them faster doesn't really do anything. TL;DR - I have no idea, I'd think at least 12psi

My assumption is my 2.0 testing will primarily be HOW to use the 2.0: tuning for the 2.0 and needing to bump the MAF diameter, seeing if the 2.0 slips (guessing it will, though maybe not at elevation due to the lower loads on it) which hopefully there is a fairly easy solution since there doesn't seem to be a smaller belt that can be used, how much power increase, etc. But that's why I have the 2.3 pulley too since it's only a hair smaller than the URD pulley, so I can swap tunes and pulleys after testing and go back to the "baseline".

And turns out one of my new tires was fucked up, so the Tundra won't get worked on until tomorrow night at the earliest.

 

I'll add you to the contact list when I do a production run

 

Shit yes!

 

I’m at about sea level. Curious on the boost. Hmm do I need a 2.30 or 2.0 lol

 

Rey, you better start building that motor budget! It's gonna get greasy in a good way!!

 

The 2.30 pulley on a tvs1900 moves about 100 CCs less per engine revolution than the tvs2650 with an 80mm pulley, which is what I’m running. 5,039 vs 5,133 if that gives you a good reference point. Very similar. I peak at 8ish PSI with stock exhaust and intake, for reference.

 

Well ideally there will be pulleys in every 0.100" increment was my thought. So it's not like go boom or go mild, I think it'd be cool to dial in exactly the amount of boost you want. Now how/if that comes to fruition is a different question, since stocking more pulleys means more money for me, and I suspect there would be some stand out options. And maybe the key is to just do a poll when the time comes across forums and facebook and wherever else I can contact people, and the top two options are what I bulk on. Plus I'll be able to start plotting points of boost/pulley/elevation since I'll now have four (2.45", 2.35", 2.30", 2.00") reference points.

 

Haha yep added to the list along with the rear link kit