TPMS receiver computer?

My Dad has a 2006 DC 4X4.
He has had all 5 senders replaced.
Tire store reset it 6 different times.
After 100 miles or so, light comes on.
Tire man says senders good, bad receiver.

where is it?

 

Do you want the light to go off or do you want the system to work?

 

Receiver is usually above the headliner, in the roof, between the dome light and 3rd brake light.

I find it highly unusual the receiver would go bad. Any good diagnostics tool will let you "sniff" each tire receiver to see what it's broadcasting, so you can see which is problematic.

 

I bypassed mine on my 2006. There's info out there on how to do it. A tire gauge works great. On these old trucks, there's two things not worth chasing your tail to fix. Secondary air injection system and the tpms. No annoying dash light, is a good thing.

 

Lol, I put a peice of black tape over the light. Problem fixed

 

He would like it to work. Since it has all new senders.

 

Is it possible the senders aren’t putting out enough power? They are aftermarket, are they not?

 

It could be low power, but unlikely all 5 are bad.

 

No, but if all 5 weren't necessarily compatible, or were flaky, or they bought a bunch of grey market or counterfeit sensors, that would explain it.

I've literally never heard of a receiver going bad, and I've had a shedload of vehicles with TPMS installed, older and newer.

 

It's probably worth adding.

I usually run my tires around 34-35psi on average. I recently decided to lower that number down to 29 and 32 respectively, per the door label. TPMS sensor went off. I reset that f'er so many times - and mind you, the reset process is not easy, IMO. The instructions for this truck aren't like any other instructions I've read.

Needless to say, I wasn't willing to change the tire pressure. After about the 10th reset, it finally went away and hasn't come back.

In short, crack open the manual. Follow the instructions to reset yourself. Alternately, just for shits and giggles, if you're running the stock tire size, try running all tires at 34psi for a few days and see if it goes away.

I swear when I did mine, there was a way to reset after a tire deflation, but also a way to set the 'expected' value, because TPMS on these is archaic, it basically trips when you get X# below the expected value you set.

 

I think the ECU or TMPS control logic is expecting a reasonable minimum PSI value when you reset.

Maybe 28 PSI or something like 2 or 3 psi (%5-10) below the factory minimum specified levels will be acceptable. And if you go below that, the control logic won't accept "unreasonable" reset values. Just guessing.

For example, if you set all tires to 15 PSI and reset, I assume that will eventually trigger the warning light even though you are not %x below the 15 PSI yet.
why? Because 15PSI is already too low and below the minimum requirements.
I also said "eventually" because like @Shifty explained, there is some delay or history logic built in to this TPMS warning calculation and it's not instantaneous. Just another guess based on my own experience with various TPMS systems.

This is different than op issues. We are just trying to figure out the TPMS logic.

One of the best logic is kick the tires and it does not require any sensors and/or batteries except when you doing 70mph speed limit, an early warning is kind of nice.

 

Checking the owner's manuals courtesy of @BubbaW ... https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-tundra-brochures-owners-manual.91566/#post-2753128

For my '06 TPMS starts on page 208. When you get to page 212 it starts talking about the reset, and how simply pressing the reset button won't reset the system.

Of course, none of this does you any good if the shop replacing the sensors didn't register the new TPM sensors to the TPM system, or used a transmitter with incomatible ID/frequency. But anyway, try the initialize procedure (big red box on the right). It's really important to do what it says: Leave ignition ON for 20 full minutes after you hold the reset until the warning light blinks. That's what bit me in the ass.

 

Do you have to hold the reset button for the entire 20 min? lol
or just don't shut the car off for 20 min after the reset?