Time to replace my battery, aftermarket replacement recommendations?

Hello Fellow Tundrians,
My battery is in need of replacement and I want to hear what you all have replaced with. For instance, on my other DD (Honda CRV) an upgrade is to replace the small stock 51R battery with a larger 24R. https://practicalmechanic.com/2021/04/27/how-to-upgrade-to-a-larger-battery-in-a-honda-accord/ This provides better Cold Cranking Amps and a beefier battery. Is there a battery hack like this? If not, should I get an Optima Red Top or Premium 48 month Napa Platinum? I am well aware of the AUX battery write-ups with the addition of an AGM 27 and dont run anything other that factory installed draw. Thanks!

 

I got 7 years out of my last Walmart Everstart Maxx battery so I bought another one. I'm pretty much stock except for aftermarket stereo

 

Not sure if your truck has a 24f battery or a 27 (F?) but I think the 27 is the biggest you can go stock location as long as you have the size 27 battery tray. I have a 24f now with a 27 battery tray. When my battery goes I'll probably get a 27. As far as brand I have no idea.

 

Had gud results with everstart from Wall wurld

 

Not sure what battery group the 1st gen uses but when I had my Tacoma I had an Odyssey 34R-790 AGM and that was excellent.

I plan to get another whenever I upgrade my Tundra's battery.

 

I hear good things about Northstar too.

Optima's quality has declined quite a bit over the last 5 or so years from what I hear.

 

Just important to note, AGM upgrade requires other changes in 1st gen, and potentially other generations. For 1stgen, it's a plug-in AGM diode that looks like a micro fuse to boost voltage, else you'll kill that nice AGM battery in short time by under-volting it. for 1st Gen drivers, IIRC, it plugs into the ALT-S fuse slot in the under-hood fuse/relay box.

If you already know this, my comment is not aimed at you. Just for others who read this now or later who aren't aware.

 

It's good info, I don't mind.

I haven't looked into it deeply enough to find out if the fuse/diode is required on the 2/2.5-gen as well. On the 3GTacoma, alternator voltage output controls were conveniently available via VFTuner but that's not the case for these tundras.

 

Tell me more about said diode . . . I put a 24 Odyssey & would rather not kill it early.
DM Me if you prefer that way.
Gracias.

 

here is a link with some good info
https://www.tundras.com/threads/agm-batteries-in-ur-tundra.87690/

 

Also, for 1st Gen trucks, check the info/links in this reply, and the one immediately below it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/charging-alternator-problems.97131/#post-2466701

PS - installation of the AGM diode IS directional. Make sure the arrow is pointing the right direction! (see pic)

 

All great responses! I currently have a 5 year old Duralast 24F and think I will replace w/ a 27F. Has anyone done any cable upgrading on their Gen1 (I.E. 4< gauge ground/alternator/etc.)? When my alternator goes, I am doing the sequoia upgrade!

 

Napa 7 year battery. The last one, the same model battery, went 7 years and was still okay, but it was showing signs of its age, so I got a new one before I was the guy holding the jumper cables.

 

I see what you did there!

 

Yup, sorry for errant confusion, ACDelcos in the other rig, this is or was a duralast. Will do a cleaning this weekend.

 

I usually get 7-8 years out of my 27F directly from Toyota. Anything less and I get a credit towards a replacement.

 

I've been running a Northstar AGM 27F for over four years now and I've been pretty happy. I have the Alt-S fuse from HKB installed and monitor voltage while driving, the ALT-S fuse brings it back into the 14.1v+ range with the engine running. Since the truck sits for a few weeks at a time, I'll throw a trickle charger on it at home.

I have, I upgraded from a 130A alternator to a 150A alternator and did the Big 3 upgrade. Alternator itself is plug-and-play if your truck has a 130a from the factory. Went overboard and used 2/0 gauge.

 

I recently upgraded from a 24 to 27F and like having the extra Cold Cranking Amps and reserve capacity, especially come winter.

 

I'd go with an Interstate MTP..
That is what I had until Toyota gave me an 84-month TruStart when they replaced my cats..
Surprisingly the 24F has more CCAs than the 27F.
But the 27F has more reserve capacity.

MTP Batteries for Car and Truck | Interstate Batteries

I went the X2 Power AGM route for 6 months and it was more trouble than it was worth to me..
Even with the HKB diode and monthly topping off, it still when to shit..
I may have gotten a lemon, but Batteries Plus wouldn't honor their warranty promises.
I used that $300 X2 on an Interstate core charge.

 

Well pulled the duralast and oh what a surprise! Rusting mounting bracket due to pooling water in the batter tray (-_-). Now I need to address this too. May try mounting an aftermarket battery tray?

On a side note, my truck did not come with the option, but curios what this port is for? (Circled in red)

I have decided to go with a interstate 27F battery. https://costco.interstatebatteries....28&choice4=2068732&choice5=2068734&Country=US

 

Done. ✅ 24F to 27F

 

Nice, Costco was the cheapest I could find and I think it was at least $20 cheaper than Autozone etc.