Crackhead resurrection

Likely automated, then.

I had a coffee place down in Ft. Lauderdale do that to me - Coffeeionado

I ordered from them because their website clearly indicated "ready to ship today!" when most others on the west coast were claiming 3-5 business days to ship. They sent one of those "Welcome, friend, you're the best!" emails, and "any problems with the order, reply to this message, we'll get right back to you".

So I replied back to say, "Hey, please confirm this is actually ready to ship today, if not, I need to cancel".

Nothing that day.

Nothing the next day.

Tried calling, leaving voicemail, got nowhere.

They continued sending me emails from their "hello" email address nearly every other day, telling me what a valued customer I was. Yet, I was totally unable to get a human on any reply, trying to cancel the order because there was urgency and I had a local store with it coming in stock three days after I ordered.

4 days after my order, it shipped. It took 7 days for it to arrive to my house. I was pissed, I wasn't home to refuse the f'n package and stuff it to them. I was PISSED.

Needless to say, I hammered them with negative reviews in all of the places that would hurt, and two watchdogs. I don't play that crap. Never again.

 

Yeah, that's probably how this is going to go. I've sent two emails to them instructing to cancel, and left a voicemail. No cancel button on their website because that would be too easy, and allow people out of the trap.

I need the parts so it's cool I guess. On the off chance that they do cancel... which I feel in my gut that they might.

I've got the last set coming from Toytec. On the phone with them, they upped it to two day shipping for the price of regular because I accidentally misclicked the shipping option. My bad.... saved me like $7 though...

 

I've gotten good vibes about Toytex with regard to how they run their business and how their staff treats customers. That's ultimately why I was, like, "Man, I think I'll order from them!" this week, and I'm still in that camp. I just knew I wouldn't have have time to call the last couple of days due to work and the kids, so I DM'd here. I'm realizing now, I should've probably emailed instead. I don't think they check messages here. (nix that, they answered. just took a day or three)

 

Yeah, they probably don't. Had really good customer service on the phone. Spoke with Devin. Was on hold for about 15-20 minutes which is fine because I'm at work, and genuinely do not care about fucking off on the clock.

Probably because it was around 5:30 or so central time. 4:30 ToyTex time.

Long story short: be aware there's a chance you'll be on hold for a minute if you call.

 

Read on. I fucked up. Lol

 

No, I was looking at the wrong install sheet. So I thought for some reason that I put them in upside down so I flipped it back over, and fucked it up.

 

How are you liking the silicon? I got the kit and have replaced a couple. Do you worry that they're not hardened vacuum lines like the OEM stuff?

 

Mine are working good still. Granted, I have less than a year on mine, but they're made for automotive use so I think they'll be fine.

 

If you're worried about collapse at bends and joints, you can always split the hose and use a 45° or 90° elbow to make the curve. I'm sure someone out there must sell an assortment kit of 90s, 45s, 22.5 bends

 

I was at SEMA a few hundred years ago & someone was selling what was basically a variety of sizes of springs that go over straight hoses. You bend the spring & the hose bends & somehow the combination keeps the hose from kinking - maybe it was by bending gradually. No clue who made them, but they worked every time at the display booth.

 

Well here's a summary for those that haven't been following along. I thought for sure that I had installed the insert adapter in upside down. I was looking at the wrong spec sheet. The proper spec sheet number is 25485. A link to this sheet can be found here. In flipping the insert upside I tweaked the circlip, and the insert. No Bueno.

Anyways, I ordered an insert kit from fastmodz.com, and after reading reviews from them after placing my order... I started to get bad Vibes. Tried calling, and leaving a voicemail to cancel my order. Sent two emails. No one read my emails, or listened to my VMs until the package was already on a FedUp truck heading my way. So I pulled up the tracking info after I had to request the tracking number...


Claims it'll be here Sunday. Cool. So I sent an email to ToyTex to cancel my order with them since these were on the way already, and theirs hadn't shipped yet... It was cancelled, and money refunded within 5 minutes. Probably less. Learned a @shifty` qualified lesson with that.

Called the local Raben to get an alignment. Turns out they were bought out by Goodyear. The alignments there used to $60+tax. Now they are $115+tax. Having them do a brake flush while it's in there for $80 more. I got some nasty nasty shit in my brake bleed jug when I bled them brakes. Worthwhile to me to have them do that while it's there.

Game plan at this time. Get the new insert w/ circlip on Sunday, and then drop the truck off at Raben/Goodyear for them to get to Monday morning.

 

Moving this reply here so I don't thread jack.

Not trying to thread jack, but..... So the one you took off is 100% bad because of the idle air control valve? Here's a pic of my throttle body where the throttle cable goes into it. The plastic tab that helps keep the cable in is busted off. Wonder if I could change that out from yours? Here's a link to the post this picture came from.


I wonder if it'd be possible to replace just this piece pointed out in blue arrow.

 

I have my old throttle body. I don’t know if it’s bad but I replaced it. What do you need from it?

 

I need the "reeling" mechanism where the throttle cable goes into it. On the other side from your picture. Let me pull up the FSM, and see if I can find a technical name.

 

@Brynden29 This screengrab is from the V6, but terminology should be the same. Looks like its the throttle linkage. Where the throttle cable slips into the actual throttle body. The black plastic piece with the spring on it.

 

These are the only checks I see on the FSM for the throttle body if you want to double check yours for what you can...

 

I’m confused as to what you are asking me to do. Would you like my old TB?

 

I'm sorry for the confusion. I would like a part from your throttle body. The throttle position sensor. The blue arrow.


Should be three Phillips head screws to remove best I can find, and that piece will slide out of the throttle body.

It would be much cheaper to ship that than it would to ship the WHOLE thing. Gladly willing to pay for shipping on both, but would prefer just the part I need.

 

Cool. I’ll take a look and see if I can get it off.

 

Thanks for trying, and being patient. Be gentle pulling on it as the plastic is most likely brittle from heat cycles.

 

Hi, former shipping guy here. Wait, what?
This attachment shows label created; it does not show package received by Fed Ex. So, it is NOT underway by that tracking info.

Soooo, a lot of companies will immediately print the shipping label when they get an order.
The label goes to the shipping department & when the item is in stock, picked, packed, ready to go - that old label gets slapped on, could be days later.
The label creates the tracking # which is what determines how long a placed order takes to close, which determines a company rating for turn around & closure speed of orders.

label printed is a game. Received by Fed Ex/UPS/DHL/Etc. is when it's real. I hope that isn't bad knowledge for you.

 

So my parts came in yesterday. Got the new insert in on the passengers side, and circlip. Installed a new circlip on the drivers side of the V6 to replace the one I stole from it. Drove crackie to the alignment shop, and noticed a noise. Halfway there I realized that I never refilled the front differential. Hope I didn't cause any issues in my 18 mile journey. Truck rides a WHOLE lot better.

Is this the correct procedure for refilling the front diff?


I'll probably do the transfer case too while I'm under there.



Oil recommendations?

 

Lucas 75w-90. Just pump fluid in until it comes out of the fill holes.

 

What size Allen socket for the plugs? 10MM?

 

Yes, the front diff is 10mm Allens. Open the fill plugs before the drain plugs. There's a chance that your front diff's drain plug might be stuck on there good FYI.

Transfer case is 24mm socket for drain and fill.

This is up to you, but on the front differential you can change out the drain and fill plugs for Lexus parts that have a nut instead of using an Allen wrench. My front diff's drain plug is stuck in place, once I get it out I'm going to get one of these to prevent rounding out the hole for the Allen wrench.

Drain plug: 90341-24016
Fill plug: 90341-18060

 

Are the plugs not the same? I can only find the drain plug on Serra and McGeorge.

 

The drain plug should have a magnet on it I believe. These are Lexus part numbers so you might need to order through a Lexus dealer, or try calling McGeorge to see what they can do.

 

I ordered from lexusoeparts.com. $26 plus shipping.

 

Oof. Should be overall alright. I'd probably refill, drive it a 100 miles or so and change it again. The amount of glitter that comes out should give you an idea how bad it was.