Multiple misfires after rebuild ** FIXED **

I got it back from the muffler shop, cleared the codes and drove it to another shop to get the alignment done. It threw the same 2 codes, VSS (which is obvious since the speedometer and odometer don't work) and the knock sensor code. Should I be concerned about the knock sensor code? Could my truck actually be knocking? I don't hear anything.

 

My understanding of the P0330 code is that the knock sensor(s) aren't functioning so there is an issue with the sensor or the circuit.

 

Sometimes the spark plug seals don't get seated all the way down and can cause a misfire. Hopefully you're all up and running again smoothly.

 

Maybe the connector wasn't fully clipped in? Shitty part is, you gotta remove the manifold to check....

It's also rodent season right now, they're breeding (here at least). They loooove chewing through knock sensor and starter wires while nesting under manifold.

 

Apologize if it's been asked, were these OEM from reputable supplier, dealer for instance.

May already know but if it's still P0330, it is related to Bank 2 knock sensor, P0325 would be Bank 1.

 

Unfortunately no, I bought them on Amazon. They are: Holstein Parts 2KNC0064 Knock Sensor.

I did order 2 of these: Genuine Toyota 89615-12040 Knock Control Sensor from Amazon. They were really expensive but if figure I will just return the 2 cheap ones and install the good ones.

Thanks for the drawing, I will be just replacing them both. I know its a bit of work, but compared to what I have already done, it will be easy.

 

I also used the Fel-pro intake manifold gaskets. Are Toyota intake manifold gaskets better?

 

The Toyota intake gasket is the 2 layer metal. $108 for the pair when I did mine. Probably more now. I’ve not heard of one failing, haven’t heard of the aftermarket having issues either.

 

Look long and hard at the parts when you get them. scAmazon is notorious for counterfeit OEM parts.

You can sometimes check to see where it shipped from. If the return address is a dealership, or there's a dealer receipt inside, you should be fine.

But if you get it, and it shipped from a scAmazon warehouse, be skeptical. They lump together inventory, good mixed in w/bad, it's roulette.

 

Fel-Pro is fine. Others (@bmf4069 comes to mind) used the Fel-Pro kit when redoing his, IIRC. He had issues with rodents chewing through his knock sensor.

 

I got bad plugs from Amazon for my 2010 Tundra years ago, they are still sitting in my garage, I did not know until someone posted a thread with the packaging differences.

Amazon is great for lots of things, car parts it's a crap shoot.

 

My fel-pro is holding up well. The ITM or whatever rockauto sells is the one that failed.

 

I just drove it home from the shop after getting the alignment. I’m really concerned about how low the idle is in gear stopped. I don’t remember it being this low before. What should it be at idle under load?

 

Mine is around 650 depending on AC on off and in gear or not. It will idle up for AC compressor.

 

Mine is idling around 300 rpm under load.

 

Same and follows FSM Specs +-50

 

Does it feel like 300? You said the Speedo was inop, maybe the cluster isn’t getting good info? It should be pretty lumpy / luggy at 300. If it feels smooth, the gauge may be the issue.

 

Yes, it feels lumpy. Shaky and rough. No misfires thankfully, just a really low idle.

 

Things that come to mind are all things I think would trigger a code like TPS or MAF. Throttle body assembly could be a culprit as well. Starting simple, have you tried to reset the idle? There’s a process for most if not all 2000’s era cars that involves turning the key from off to run, off to run, off to start, then engage parking brake and shift into drive. Or something like that. I think there’s some YouTube videos that describe it. Maybe one of the Toyota techies here can attest to whether it works on the tundra or not.

 

The more I read about the Tundra, the more it says idle is solely set by computer with no mention of the reset or relearn capability beyond just driving it. Most posts attribute bad throttle body / IAC assembly with poor idle.

 

Vacuum issue?

Watch, you'll get the idle up and the misfires will return. Murphy's Law.

 

Damn. Mine idles between 400-500 rpm at the lowest.

Doesn’t get shaky unless it’s below 350.

 

I pretty much idle at 700 after good and warm whenever I peak at it with Techstream.

 

Make sure all your vacuum hoses are back in place and the connector to the MAF and TPS are properly seated. Those are easy ones to miss after reinstalling the intake.

 

I am idling at about 500 under load.

 

Curious if these numbers are from your code reader or the idiot gauge, lack of a better term ?

 

Code reader.

 

It never stops… now my ac compressor won’t turn on when I was charging the system. I know it has Freon in it but the ac light just flashes and the compressor doesn’t turn on. I’m about at the end.

 

The hits keep coming. If the AC system was open during the motor swap, then it needs to be evacuated and refilled with the special machine. Not sure if there is any special reset process after the system faults for low refrigerant pressure.

 

I put the new ECU in and it’s all the same. Knock sensor code, VSS not working and super low idle. The misfires came back at first but went away. I think I am going to have to swap the wiring harness when I get the new one.