Crackhead resurrection

Oh I know the feelimg

 

Both of mine have the same prybar "access holes" from the first time I removed them. Makes it a lot easier to do the job next time. Mine have done a good job staying put but they're covered by my wheels.

 

Shits in the mail

 

Reserved for today's activities. @FrenchToasty thank you!!!
So, today is Thursday, July 21st, 2022. Everything in this post happened yesterday. Here's the low down...

• Tore apart passengers side.
• Installed New LBJ.
• Reinstalled old tie rod to new LBJ
• Installed SPC UCA
• Wheelers off road stainless steel brake line installed
• Dropped off both shocks with bruce to replace the springs, top hats, and reset the circlip to position #2. Had original coils on it on the 4th circlip.

Waiting on bruce now to get my shocks back to me. He quoted me around $70 for all that.

 

This thread makes my head spin. I have Toyotas so I don;t have to deal with this shit. I'm a couple months behind on this thread, and hes spent 200 hrs and 1000's of dollars. I totally respect the fun of it, but I got bills to pay so I can't relate. I like cars that run. Just me, but I'm totally fastenated by all the learning that happens in this thread.

 

Fascinated? Or fasten a bolt and be anated? Spell it yourself. Classic rebuild thread, but I am too busy too keep up.

 

Feel free to unfollow...or PM me if you need help relating.

 

So today's scoop wasn't much...

• Dry mounted 13WL powerstop calipers.
• Trimmed dust shields.
• Installed Rotors, calipers w/ pads, and now waiting on bruce....

Still waiting on bruce before I can button anything else up...

 

Hopefully he doesn't let you down.

 

It's funny what we notice, I have the same box of HF cotter pins, and are those braided brake lines long enough? I imagine you have hard lines to reach them.

 

What did you do to Crackie's frame? Grease rub, spray something on it, other?

 

I'm going with spray. almost poll time.

 

skeet skeet skeet

 

Hard lines aren't on yet from the caliper to the knuckle. Also, the SPC arms aren't connected to the knuckle yet either. Those cotter pins are a life saver!!!

@FirstGenVol special.... fluid film....

 

So Bruce got to my shocks this morning, but had an issue. The top hats had the wrong isolators on them... so I called 1stgenoffroad.

Here's what I have:
Reusing old 5100s from crackie.
Dobinson Front Coil Springs set: C59-302
KYB tophats: kybSM5442

Here's what I needed, and ordered this morning from Josh at 1stgenoffroad.
Kyb spring isolators: kybSM5413

$40 and a two to three day wait, and then Bruce can get to my shocks...

So the never used OEM style KYB spring isolators are for sale. $20 plus shipping. When I actually have them in hand... I'll post em up in one of my threads about truck parts... So basically the "cone" that's on the isolator to "center" the spring was too big to fit inside the Dobinsons spring, but they fit OEM coils

Test fit that scamazon u-bolt spacer kit to make sure it would clear the OEM leaf spring, and line up with the saddle that goes under the axle. All looks well on crackie. Worst case scenario I have to reuse the old u-bolts from the silver truck when I get to thieving....

$65 2" Rear Lift Block Compatible With 1995-2024 Tacoma/Tundra 2WD 4WD, 2'' Rear Leveling Lift Kits with Extra Long Extended Square U-Bolts Raise The Rear of Your Pickup By 2"

Richeer 2'' Rear Black Leveling...

 

Well, looks like I'll be waiting a little longer... what the fuck is a shipment exception?


Edit: Weather delay

 

Could be any number of things, they lost the package because a truck rolled over, tornado hit facility, airplane crashed, theft from truck, or something else.

Funny, the first time I ever saw a tornado is when living in Arlington TX. We were riding the bus to school in the morning and there was one off the distance. I learned that day what "hyperventilating" was because some girl on the bus was doing it, she was totally freaking out it was going to hit us when it was probably 2-3 miles west, closer to our school. The rest of us were just hoping it'd take out the school

 

Could be the sorting facility closed for high heat. We'll get to them tomorrow.
I've 'weather delay'd' a ton of packages - but that was snow & ice & the state closed the highways.

(fun fact - I kept track of the weights of packages I was lifting per shift for a week, averaged 2 tons per night. So it really was tons of packages I delayed)

 

Been awhile since I updated this. Bruce got those spring put back on the 5100's. Got'em installed, and the front wheels back on the ground. Adjusted the SPC ball joints to the "A" position. See below for a screen grab from the instruction sheet. Which can be found .



Started on the sliver truck robbery, and finished that without a single picture of the process... The spring seat was pretty forked on crackie so I'll be stealing them from the silver truck as I replaced those with my leaf springs. The one with the blue arrow is crackie's. Man, I gotta tell you. It felt sketchy as hell to be under the truck with a wrench taking the U-bolts off without a single jack in place. I knew that gravity would keep me safe.... You can see the 2 inch block kit I put on the silver truck to keep it from having the Carolina lean. Lift didn't change.


Anyways, I removed crackie's leaf spring, and was putting on the "stolen" one when I realized that I forgot the caster wedge. It's listed on page 2,344 on the FSM. See the screen grab below.



I took apart crackie's leaf spring, and then took apart the Alcan leaf spring to install the caster wedge. I noticed that the leafs themselves were pretty rusty so I splayed open the leafs that didn't come off, and sprayed @FirstGenVol's choice of rust prevention in-between the leafs. Fluid film. The leafs that did come off got a healthy coat of anti-seize. Schlickums!!! @RUSTYNUTS I know you've got an ongoing thread about doing some leaf spring mods. It's not that bad taking them apart. I wish I had more pictures for you.

Here's two shots of crackie after today's activities. You can see on the leaf spring where the fluid film, and anti-seize are schmooging out of the leafs.


Looks like crackie's rear drums are the same autozone brand I put on the silver truck. Bummer. Was hoping to just be able to turn/hone the OEM drums when I get to that point. You can see more of the blue spray paint from the crack head that had crackie before me. Trying to hide the rust.


Here's the metal trash pile so far. One leaf spring to go, and then I can sell all this for scrap.

 

HAHAHA got the crocs in there where they belong too..hahha. I actually already busted open my spare packs, so I've got a bunch of loose different sized leaves, just didn't know which one to add in without assembling and installing 5 times to test each one. I hadn't acted on it cuz longer u-bolts are needed and didn't wanna pay out the booty like you did. Found a new in box kit on offerdeez for $20. instead of the 1" block included, I'll just be using an additional leaf

 

wait... theres a wedge for the reg cabs?


also.. whats wrong with the CV axle? is its a OEM? i may want the inner joint if so...

 

Trash pile FTW. There's a distinc lack off beers in there though. Keep kickin ass Noah!

 

So I got the other leaf pack in, with the caster wedge properly installed. Also schmooged some fluid film in between the leafs on that side too. Got the wheels on, and crackie back down on the ground where he belongs. I adjusted the arm for the LSPV up about a 1/4". I made sure that the bell crank arms weren't seized by actuating the parking brake lever in the cab. Still need to bleed brakes tomorrow.



I feel like the front is a c-hair higher than the rear which is fine. Hoping those Dobinsons springs will settle a little bit like they did on the V6. Speaking of that truck... I realized I goofed up on both trucks...
I have installed the SPC adapter upside down on BOTH trucks. See the pics below from the V6. These are both from January 1st, 2021. It's been problem free for the last 44,000 miles... I didn't notice, and don't feel as though the inserts/adapters were/are tapered. I think it'll be fine just like it has been on the V6, but still... bothers me now that I know, but I'm too far along now.

 

From SPC's install sheet... Compare that to how the V6 is, and how I did crackie too. I'm gonna have to fix it... At least I haven't gotten an alignment yet.

 

Y'all... I don't think this shit is right. Got the passengers side knuckle insert flipped, and was starting to torque the ball joint stud down.

Here's pics of where I'm at. Torque value is supposed to be at 45 lb. Ft. Currently sitting right at 30~ish lb. Ft. I don't want to stretch my knuckle. Called, and left a voice mail with SPC, but waiting on a return call.

Maybe one of you guys have had this issue, or can tell me if this is normal. I know its supposed to expand, but got damn!! I struggled getting the castle nut to start because I only had 1.5 threads exposed on the bottom of the insert. With the insert upside down the ball joint stud literally just slides straight in.


Here's pictures of the drivers side for comparison. The insert expanded only a little bit like this. Just worried about messing up the knuckle mainly, or over stressing it.

@5N0W808 @empty_lord @shifty` @FirstGenVol @FrenchToasty
​

 

I remember that installing that part incorrectly is a common mistake. There is even a YouTube video where the guy does it incorrectly.

@Festerw and I spoke about it. He may get have some insight on your situation.

 

Yeah, I've seen that video. Been awhile though. Think that guy was running after market knuckles if memory serves?

Looks like @Silver1stgen13's inserts are upside down too. Link

Is everyone running these upside down with no issues? I can't seem to find any more pictures so far.

My guts says to flip it back the way I had it, but the diagram shows it the other way. See this post #1918 above.

 

You had it correctly the first time. The inserts are tapered to accept the ball joint.

 

Well, fuck me. I was looking at the wrong instal sheet I guess.

My spec sheet got rained on, and is missing the bottom half.... of course.

 

So it goes in from the bottom and the snap ring holds it in place up top? I wonder if that's why people get it backwards.