OME 3"/1" kit goes full extension with a BANG too fast. Why?

Hey guys, 2002 2WD Tundra here.
I purchased an Old Man Emu 3"/1" lift kit with Camburg UCA's from 1stGenOffroad and the springs and shocks came assembled so all I had to do was swap them out. I like the height and the ride is decent, my only complaint/concern is that the front suspension goes to full extension with a loud bang really quickly- even when going over speed bumps.
It's as if the springs are too tight or something. The Camburg UCA's are supposed to allow more travel, but it's pretty irritating to hear/feel a loud BANG every time I go over a bump. Anyone know if this is normal or if there is a solution?
Thanks!

It's very similar to this kit: 3"/1" Level/Lift 2000-2006 Tundra
I don't think they carry the kit that I purchased with Camburg UCA's last year anymore.

 

I remember hearing the "bang" when I had the stock UCA's. The UCA's would hit my coils but since I got Solo's UCA's, that all went away. I wonder if you're over extending the suspension. Do you see any missing paint on the coils or paint transfer on the UCA's or coils?

by the way, super clean frame.

 

Mine did that too, but it was almost a 4 inch lift, which is too much for a first gen. What's your center of hub to fender measurement?

 

If OP has an access cab truck, as it appears, and is 2WD as he mentioned, he probably is running about 4" in front with the kit in question.

As I dug through finding the right setup for my first round lift, I read time and time again that OME gives "bare minimum" numbers to expect, the numbers they give are more like the "average" you'll get with a 4WD double ab.

An access cab truck with 2WD probably has about 400-800lbs less towards the front of the truck. Depending on which springs OP chose, it could be even worse. This is how so many people on here have wound up with bent knuckles and other misc damage.

Damn that frame looks brand new. Is something missing there?

Anyway, @S-Man the I think the most critical bit of info you can give here is finding more-exact details on which kit you bought. While I doubt we'll ever know the shock, specifically which spring was used? 2884, 2885, 2886, 2887? For your 2WD AC truck, 2884 was probably appropriate, but a 2887 is waaaaay too much.

And who installed?

Furthermore, did you install extended swaybar links like Maxx links? If not, does the hammering happen when the swaybar links are detached?

Any signs of metal-on-metal, like where the UCA would contact the spring, or something else was banging into stuff?

 

Thanks for the effort and info Shifty, the clean frame is from me scrubbing it down, hitting it with a wire wheel and painting it while I was in the process of installing suspension mods. Over the past year I have been restoring the truck with factory parts, had it painted, seats re-covered, new wheels/tires etc.
Here's a quick pic, I planned on taking some actual photos one day when I have it washed and waxed up.

What you're saying makes sense- it seems like the springs are for a 4wd and/or models with a winch/bumper on the front. When selecting which kit to buy, I did choose the option of the lower spring rate for 2wd models. I had them mount the shocks in the springs to save me the trouble, and I have no way of confirming which springs they sent me unless there's some type of markings that I missed.
I once installed Double Cab 4wd springs with spacer pucks on my truck and it had a similar issue- it was always riding at the top extent of the spring so any little bump would go full extension.

I'm afraid this may be the issue here. Any way to fix it other than ordering a different spring? I emailed Josh at 1stGen to see if they can look up the exact model number of the springs I ordered (this information was not sent in any emails or order confirmations.)

I installed the kit, as I've done a couple different lifts on it in the 20 years I've owned it. (2.5" pucks, 4wd springs, now this)
I did not install the swaybar extend links, I asked Josh at 1stGen if I NEEDED them and he said not really but it is recommended. I haven't tried detaching the swaybar links, perhaps I'll give that a shot and see what happens. I did a quick inspection and don't see any metal/metal wear anywhere. I'll get it on a jack and do a better inspection soon.

Thanks again for the info.

 

I'm measuring right around 24" from center hub to fender.

 

That's what I was at and had the exact same issues. It was worse on the back side of a speed bump. I know it sucks to get a different spring installed, but that's probably the best bet. The coils do have stickers on them so you can see what was installed, but I'm guessing it was the 2885.

You can also sell your basically brand new shocks and then buy new brand new ones with a shorter coil on them, just have to do the math and see how much each option will cost. When I had mine, I ended up selling them for $150 less than I paid for them and got different shocks. In hindsight I wish I had gone the shorter coil route. And you can easily sell the 2885 coils for $150 if not a little bit more.

 

I realize it's not the same shock, but just to give you an idea of what to expect with the 2885, here's another AC/2WD truck running 2885 springs: https://www.tundras.com/threads/a-kids-tundra.89748/#post-2414422

Here it is with wheels more in-line with what you're running, less meat on the rubber: https://www.tundras.com/threads/a-kids-tundra.89748/page-2#post-2598303

Here's another example with a cap on the back in a AC/4WD: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1378#post-2800692

Really, I'm not even a novice in the topic, but just based on what I saw over and over again while researching for my own lift, I feel like the 2885 is inappropriate for AC trucks. I've seen the same general stance you and others have, slight reverse-rake, and running 2885. Here's the breakdown of spring rates for the OME coils:

OME 2883: 375mm in height, 590 pound spring rate
OME 2884: 390mm in height 590 pound spring rate
OME 2885: 395mm in height 590 pound spring rate
OME 2886: 402mm in height 660 pound spring rate
OME 2887: 400mm in height 590 pound spring rate
OME 2888: 405 mm in height 590 pound spring rate​

You really should try to figure out what spring you've got in there, I think. I honestly, legitimately feel like the 2884 is a more appropriate spring to run on AC trucks, whether 4WD (for a tiny forward rake) or 2WD (for leveling). And expect another half inch of lift if using OME shocks instead of 5100.

I ordered the 2884 for myself.

 

Nice info thanks. Josh from 1stGen emailed me back and said that I have the OME 2887. So I guess it's just too tall for the truck even though the UCA's are replaced.
Wheels are 17", tires are 265/70. I have a 1" add a leaf spring out back so there is a slight sag in the rear.
When you say 390mm vs. 400mm in height, is this the overall spring height? How does that compare to stock spring heights?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Link? I see a bunch of bump stops from wheelers for tacomas/4runners.
I haven't had a problem bottoming out so far, it's banging from too much extension.
Thanks!

Edit: Maybe these?

 

Before saying any more, I'm going to toss this out at you just in case, since you are driving a 2WD. Check your tranny mount. Specifically because of the TSB in this thread, where that mount can cause the exact clunk you speak of. Just re-tightening the bolts has bought some members temporary relief (and also confirmed this was their issue). It's worth checking before you go any further.

Beyond that, now replying to your comment I'm quoting....

I may not be the person to speak to this, I'm not the lift guru here. I can talk about drops and bagging stuff all day long, with lifts, I can only repeat what I've read and seen. Biggest thing to repeat is that you need to start making other concessions/upgrades when you approach - and definitely when you surpass - the 2.5" to 3" mark up front. Extended links, high angle boots, shim kits, UCA, etc.

With that 2887 you're basically getting a significant spring lift, regardless of which strut you swap in. If your shock happens to be designed (or notched) in a way that gives even more lift, you're just amplifying that using that taller spring. But you can clearly see what the 2885 does on AC 2WD trucks on 5100s, and I wouldn't doubt if the OMEs in that kit are providing the same or more lift than the 5100s.

That same 2887 spring on 5100s would basically give your truck Carolina Squat because it's the lighter access cab with 2WD and no added weight in front, from armor, winch, etc. I can only imagine what it'll do with the OMEs, which have a reputation for adding extra lift with lighter trucks. Stock spring, since you asked, for your 2WD which would use a lighter spring, is probably about 2-3" shorter than that OME.

If I were you, to find if the clunk is in your suspension, I'd do what I've seen @alb1k doing here & there, testing min/max, looking for contact anywhere, seeing if/where you may make contact in your full range of motion. You may want to do this with the tire pointed straight ahead and clocked full left and full right to check everything.

Other members have complained about loud clunks like this (a) using stock arms, where the stock arm is contacting the spring, and (b) from the sway bar if attached, and not using extended links. Quick test on the latter would be to unhook and drive over whatever normally makes a clunk.

I wish I could find the resource someone showed me - someone on one of the Tundra forums had a great layout with pictures showing different ways to achieve lift, showing side-by-side comparisons of popular struts and shocks. It really, seriously helped me wrap my head around all this stuff.

 

PS -

I just checked BilsteinLifts which is I've sourced my kit from. With a 2WD/AC, they won't even SELL you the 2887 paired with 5100s, for example. 2884 is as tall as they'll go for AC/2WD and they're saying the 2884 would give your AC/2WD a 3" lift by itself.

For comparison, here's what they're showing for my 4WD/AC as far as lift goes ... if the 2887 with the 5100 (1st notch, so stock-height) would give me 3" lift, and that's with the added drivetrain weight and possible stiffer springs. I can't even imagine how far it would go with OME's shocks, but I've never seen them side-by-side with the 5100 to be fair. I also think Josh probably knows a helluva lot more about this stuff than me, though:

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This sounds exactly like what this thread discusses https://www.tundras.com/threads/ome-2-5”-lift-measurements.75458/. It is for a 2.5 gen but the exact same symptoms. Long story short what, @The Patriot 1776 found was that the suspension was almost fully extended even on level ground and he had very little down travel.

 

My old lift kit on my tacoma by Dobinson's made that sound your describing while it settled. Afterwards it rode real nice.

 

I’m working so I’ll read this thread in it’s entirety later tonight.
First of all, speed bumps are about as good as testing your suspension as driving straight into a curb. Many new high end shock owners expect to jam a speed bump and feel like BJ Baldwin. You need more to float over those
Do you get that top out extension feeling on shitty road? Could be that you are over sprung and under shocked. My first lift was OEM shocks on high rate springs and it cornered like no one’s business, but too much spring for the shock. I would sometimes engage anti-lock going over a sudden little drop, like 2” if I had a foot on the brake.

 

I believe that reads to be what was happening with the 2.5gen'er APalmTree linked up. And it would make sense, given the longer specs on the 2887 with lack of weight. Spring may have the shock near-maxed?

 

Yeah, even in small potholes or bumps in the road it will top out with a bang. The suspension drops out really quickly and hits it's limit. It's pretty annoying inside too because it's loud and jarring. I think it's just too tall for the truck without being a long travel kit. Haven't had time to get it on a jack and do some tests and inspections yet.

 

Near maxed as in almost no shaft (or droop left) for extension, and/or the spring is too much for the shock and over powers it.

 

Sounds like what I had. I didn't know anything about suspension at the time (2005) and my lift was basically a big ass set of springs. Did what yours does.

 

I was thinking more the former than the latter. I think if OME specs are right, the spring rate should be ballpark the same, I want to say it's 103 N/mm for everything 2883-2888 (except the 2886, which is higher). I doubt 10mm (.3") at the same spring rate would make that much diff. Maybe they made a mistake and installed 2886 by accident or sent the wrong part, and it's actually the latter?

Actually, went to go pull the image so I'm not talking out of my ass, here is the full spectrum (edited to flip the pic so the numbers make sense):

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The no droop, shock at almost full extension would feel and perform the worst of the two. I think you are thinking correctly.

 

OP’s pic doesn’t look over lifted though.

I have annoying clunks with my Tundra on 5100’s and 885’s and my Sequoia on Icons and SPC’s.

Drives me nuts and I have no idea where it’s coming from.

 

So I got under it with a jack today.
As noted previously, on the ground I'm getting around 24" center hub to fender. Lifted off the ground I'm getting around 25" center hub to fender, so yeah I think these springs are too tall for the truck.
Posting some pics here- I don't see anything abnormal, signs of damage or friction, but maybe you guys see something I'm missing. I don't even know what's stopping the wheels from drooping further, I can't locate what physically stops the range of motion where it's at.
Guess I'll be in the market for some shorter springs/shocks. Other than an aftermarket coilover set (i.e. Icon, Fox, SAW etc.) any suggestions?
Thanks!

 

Definitely too tall. My stock 2wd was 19 3/8" LF & 19 1/2" RF.

Given the numbers and where your truck sits, I'd see if you could swap out to the 2883 coils. They have 20mm less spring height or just over 3/4". Which will probably fall between 25-30mm (1 to 1 1/4") in ride height difference.

2884's and 2885's are almost identical in length. 5mm at spring means about 7-8mm (1/4" to 5/16") height difference.

 

I'd put the truck back down, unhook one end of the sway bar links on both sides, then jack up and see if you get more droop?

I honestly think that could be what's physically limiting travel. I'm not saying I'm right by any stretch, just a sneaky suspicion and it's an easy sub-30min test that may restore sanity. Sorry if I already suggested this (I'm too lazy to read back )

 

That sounds like a shit ton. What's the measurement when the truck is jacked up with the tire off the ground?

 

I would bet you are right in that the sway is limiting and banging as part of the problem. Bent link(s) would not surprise me at all.

 

25ish inches lol

 

Well, virtually no droop, but sounds like you know that, lol.

 

One of my sway links last year.