Suggestion for leveling and wheel set up with no rubbing/trimming and no loss of power.

Just got a 2017 5.7 Limited the TRD 4x4 off road package. Came with 275/65/r18 TRD wheels. I wanted it leveled with a bigger tire on it but nothing too extreme, just a nice stance with a beefy tire without losing any torque/power and without causing any issues with the stock suspension or having any rub or having to cut.

Guy at Toyota suggested a 2 inch leveling kit with rear spacer for the front, said that this would not cause any issues with the stock suspension down the road and that I could go up to 295/75/r18 without any issues. I plan to keep the trd rims. Would this set up work? Has anyone use a similar set up that has pictures? I basically want a level truck and the tires to fill the wheel wells as much as possible with no rub and not having to do any trimming with keeping the trucks current power.

Thanks.

 

Sounds like you want a stock truck.

 

I want it a little higher...I dont want it super jacked up. My neighbors tacoma has a nice height to it so maybe somewhere near there.... attached a pic for comparison. I really dont know much about lifts.

 

Here is a pic of how mine sits now.

 

I went with a very mild "lift" and tire upgrade that you might consider. Eibach Pro Sport Shocks (front & rear), front set at 1.25in setting. I tow kind of heavy during the summer (7k lb TT) so I added Roadmaster Action Suspension on rear, that added around 1.25in lift. So overall I'm sitting 1.25in higher all around, and kept stock rake. Tires are General Grabber ATX LT275/60R20 (33x11). The ride is excellent and much better than stock (black shocks), with no rubbing and I really haven't noticed any drop in mpg's. Others may recommend Bilstein 5100's. I had those on my '08 Dbl Cab, and I think the Eibachs ride a little smoother.

 

Thanks, mind if I ask what the set up cost? Mine came with bilstein "trail tuned"(whatever that means) shock absorbers....not sure if that changes anything in refernce of lifts/levels etc

 

I went with 5100's front and back, middle setting for the front , and Ikon AAL in the rear. Basically 1.5 inches all around. 275/70r18 for the tires on stock rims. It drives like stock and I don't notice a difference on acceleration, but I did lose about 2 MPG's.

 

This is a magic potion you seek.
Any deviation from stock is going to result in lower gas mileage.

 

With a stock TRD off-road suspension and your wheels you can go up to a 275/70r18 tire. 95% of guys don’t rub with this or require any trimming. AT tires (E-load) will be about 10lbs heavier each than your stock tires. You will feel that but you will get used to it.

Most here consider a “mild lift” to be 1-2” and to fill out the wheel well and keep your TRD wheels you’re looking at 295/70 r18 or 285/75 r18 tires. You’d need to be at 2” to not have to do any trimming or experience any rubbing. That levels your truck with nothing in the bed or on your tow hitch. If you tow a lot or fill the bed up often you’re gonna sag or get the Carolina lean look on 2” lift up front and nothing to the rear. There are options for bringing the rear up also obviously. I’m not sure what point brake lines etc become affected but I’d guess if you keep the rear lift below 2” you’d be fine.

12” wide tire (295-305 depending on the brand and type) is the widest you can fit on those TRD wheels without adding wheel spacers.

Going higher than 3” up front, suspension geometry begins to change and there’s UCA changes, diff drops, and all kinds of other excitement waiting for you. Again not a huge problem but you need to address those issues.


There is an overwhelming amount of great information on this forum to educate yourself on suspension items. Use the search function and or find “build threads” of guys & gals trucks that you like on here as most are detailed enough to show you what you need or don’t. Maybe reach out to them to answer specific questions.

Enjoy the truck and welcome.

 

5100s all around, middle setting up front, 275/70/18 on Icons with 25mm offset. No rubbing. No noticeable loss in power and minimal if any loss in MPGs. On this trip we were at 16 mpg average in 800 miles.

 

Suggestions are going to vary wildly based on the intended use of the truck. Are you ever going off road and needed robustness and function, or are you just trying to make your truck look they way you want? Either is totally fine, but will definitely impact how you should go about things.

Just some things you need to be prepared for going down this road, and these are just the price of modding a truck.

1. Lift = lost MPG. No way around it. You're changing your aerodynamics in a negative way and you will pay for it at the pump.
2. Bigger tires will sap power. You cannot add weight/rotational mass and change ratios without having an impact on your power. General rule: If you go 35" or larger you may want to consider re-gearing to restore factory ratios.
3. Wheel offset plays a huge roll in rubbing/not rubbing. Pay close attention to any builds you check the look of and make sure you take into account any difference in offset.
4. Every Tundra and lift/tire situation is unique. Not all the trucks are identical or square, and not all tire sizes are identical. Example: I selected wheels and tires specifically because another member had the same wheels and had tires in my desired size (275/70R18) but I went with a different brand tire. He has zero rub on stock suspension after removing the air dam/splash guard under the front bumper, but I had significant rub on the same wheels but a different brand tire in the same size. His brand has 275/70R18 at 33.19" and my brand has them at 33.43", and that quarter inch was the difference in rubbing or not. Be prepared that ANY change to a larger tire may yield different results than what you read from other's experiences.

 

I picked up the shocks at TireRack.com, but you could also order directly from Eibach for the same price - around $520 + tax. I had the front shocks installed at a local tire/suspension shop, for a little over $400, including front end alignment. For the rear, if your also interested, RAS runs around $500. So, around $1500 total for my mild lift, that also rides, handles, tows and IMO looks better than stock.

 

Oh Im not worried about mpg....I meant I dont wanna lose power as in acceleration and torque

 

Then you can't have bigger tires. If it's only a small increase the butt dyno won't be able to tell, but it will have an impact if you measured it precisely.

 

Thanks for breaking it down

 

To clarify a little loss is fine (cant really be avoided) I just dont want it to turn into a slug...

 

Check out some of the picture threads (several sorted/titled by color) to see if you like any of the set ups.

To start you off, here is my truck on stock suspension with 275/70R18 Falken Wildpeaks. Wheels are a +25 offset for a slight poke, where as stock wheels would be +65 offset for a slight tuck. I had to remove the front splash guard/air dam piece under the bumper up front, and I had rub at when turning in reverse. I could have removed the front mud flaps to eliminate the rub, but it wasn't too terrible.





Later I added the Falcon Tow Haul supsension on the level setting up front and some Coach Builder +2 shackles in the rear to maintain rake (rear tire is in the gutter so it looks level in the pic). I hate the squatted look and Tundras rear leafs are pretty thin. You can see that it added a bit more gap in the wheel wells, but even with the lift up front I still have some rub in reverse while turning.




Staying with stock offsets of +60 might have prevented the rub, but I can't promise it.

 

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015...ffects-of-tire-diameter-on-final-drive-ratio/

For anyone following (and because I like to overthink things ‍`\_0_/`) I found an article where you can calculate your nee and old diamter, see how the changes affect you finial drive ratio, and then see what you final drive ratio would have to be with the new tires to get the same power (acceleration etc) out of it

Ex. If I changed from 275/65/r18 to 295/75/r18 then my gearing drops from 4.30 to 3.89 and I would need 4.74 gearing to maintain stock power. If I change to 275/70/r18 then my gearing drops to 4.15 and I would need 4.44 gearing to maintin stock power.

Just a cool tool I found if anyone wants it

 

Nice. The two common options (maybe only options?) for regearing on the 2.5 gen tundras are 4.88 and 5.29, I believe. Rule of thumb is that 35" needs the 4.88 to be right close to factory and that 37" is the 5.29s. At least that's my understanding from the forum binging I've done over the last couple years. I could be wrong, and if I am somebody will chime in.

 

Im not sure if I wanna fool with gearing right now...so I need to fiqure out what is an "acceptable loss" reference to gearing (minus 15 or minus 30) and then see if I like the way certain wheels look at between that ratio....

 

For sure. I can't speak for anything except what I have on my truck, but I didn't notice a major change in performance with the modifications I made. Maybe that's because I already added a couple hundred pounds of armor to the truck before the wheels and tires, or maybe it's just not enough of a change going up to the 275/70R18s to have a noticeable impact. Either way, if you are trying to avoid rubbing then it's best to be on the conservative side.

 

As you dive into the lift and gearing details don't forget to look at the tire and rim specs as well…for example, look at tire weight and sidewall stiffness. You will be surprised at how heavy and how much stiffer (side Load “E”) the famous BFG is compared to what you have now. Rims, same thing…some are much heavier than stock. I put BFGs (33s) on a 20” Fuel wheel and hated them…braking, acceleration, ride, MPG all took a hit. It looked cool but that was about it. Oh, the “poke” guaranteed I had shit slung all over the sides at all times…just not what I wanted. Sold them. Had my 18” TRD wheels powder coated black and went to Toyo IIIs (33s) and they are decent. They aren't a side load “E” and they are about the lightest AT tire out there. Mileage and acceleration still took a hit but I like this setup better.

I went with Bilstein 6112s up front on lowest setting. I also added the spacer on the drivers side to address the “Tundra lean”. Put new 5800s on rear. The front is about 3/4 inch higher than stock and overall there is still a rake, meaning the ass end is higher than the front.

 

I am by no means an expert. But I don’t have to be because this forum has been so good!

but for myself, whether it’s my truck or my boat I then to think about capability, comfort, cool and cost. Like some other members I also went with Falcons. They gave me about 2.25” in front. Added a +1 coach builder in back. Went with 295/70/17s. That doesn’t match what you asked about. But …. I’m leveled with a little bit of lift. I did not have to trim. The ride is way better. No noticeable impact to performance. The tires are a little bigger than the stock 275/55/20 I had - but look way bigger. Did not have to worry about a speedo adjustment. For me I hit all 4 C’s.

 

295/70/18s on Method 316s, Bilstein 5100s on the top setting up front, stock out back.

All the mud flaps have to go and the front wheel well liners have to be hit with a heat gun and pushed forward at the very bottom. Do that and you'll be rub free.

 

I like the 295's on 5100's...I did mid setting with coachbuilder shims and plus one shackle in back. If you use stock rims you will need to add a spacer to get the right stance. I have bushwacker flairs so another reason I wanted them out. I bought a bumper shim from coachbuilder which helped in front.

The second pic is how she sits now with a full 3 inch coilover....

 

Hey everyone. I have a 2010 toyota tundra rwd 4.6l double cab. I want to do a RC 3 inch leveling kit or possibly a 3.5 inch lift. I want to use fuel darkstar 22X9 5X139.7/5X150
5.04 backspace 1mm offset 110.10 bore.
Will these wheels work with either of those lifts and if so what's biggest tire I can use without rubbing or needing to cut stuff?