Seized timing belt idler pulley bolt

This might sound crazy, bear with me... I've been in the process of trying to chance the timing belt and water pump on my 02 4.7L. Everything had been going pretty smooth, until I tried to take off the timing belt idler pulley. It started to round off as soon as I tried to take it off (with a basically new 6 sided socket and hand tools). Since then, I've tried several bolt extractors (the socket kind with the teeth, not the drill in kind), by hand and with an impact. Last night, I tried an air impact that i borrowed (theoretically like 800 ft lbs, takes off lug nuts like it's nothing) with an impact rated extractor socket. The socket didn't slip at all, but the impact stalled out somehow. I can't get enough traction on it with the extractor and breaker bar, the extractor slips if you don't use the impact. I've tried hammering on smaller sockets as well, even tried jb welding the 14mm socket on in desperation, and that didn't do it.

I've been taking it off lefty-loosy, and I checked to confirm that it's not reverse threaded (I don't think at least)

Has anyone else experienced anything like this? It's driving me crazy. The only other thing I can think of is basically ignoring it, and changing the timing belt but not the water pump or idler wheel, or maybe welding a big nut onto it and trying a breaker bar on that, but it'd be really hard to get at to weld onto. Otherwise maybe this air impact isn't that strong, but I had a decent size compressor, 3/8 hose, and the impact itself is beefy. I really hesitate to try any sort of drill in easy out, I figure if the impact doesn't have enough power anything like that would break off in it, and that'd be a real mess.

I figure I've latched into it with several hundred pounds of torque, can't figure out how it could be that seized for that not to break it free. Has anyone else every experienced something like that? Thanks a ton.

(the picture is from a bit earlier before the extractor chewed it up)

 

I'd give it some heat. As long as you replace the idler pulley afterwards.

 

Which way does the pulley wheel spin when the engine is on? That way should be tight on that bolt? This pulley should be spinning counter clockwise when the belt is around it I believe. Likely a reverse threaded bolt, lots of the tensioner bolts in Toyotas are. Give her hell the other way.

 

Was wondering if it might be reverse threaded.

 

You sure it's not reverse thread? Check 2m18s mark on this 2UZ-FE if it doesn't auto-start there.

Only reason I'm, like, "wha?" is because you torque CCW to release tension on the serp belt. I'd expect removal to be CW. (Edit: Sorry, I got the wrong pulley. Still, you may want to tighten a smidge to see if it'll break bonds)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYXNTkIGyuY#t=2m18

 

I've never heard of the IDLER pulley bolt being reverse threaded.

Regardless, put a fat nut over it (which you can still fit a socket on) and weld the inside onto the bolt. Then you'll have a larger hex size to turn and usually the heat from welding breaks it free in general.

 

I would not recommend this. It is most definitely not reverse threaded. I've changed 2 timing belts myself and watched probably 15 videos on youtube of others doing it. It is definitely right hand thread. I'm not sure what your options are at this point, but I wouldn't recommend cranking on it in the clockwise direction.

 

There are a number of times in my life when putting a little force in the tightening direction was the ticket to freeing up a fastener.

I'm not saying you're wrong or @KNABORES is wrong here, you definitely shouldn't be taking a 3ft prybar to a fastener that's locked up and go gorilla on it. In fact, you shouldn't use exceptional leverage on anything without first trying chemical and heat methods first. But tightening a stuck fastener is a legitimate removal tactic.

 

PS - OP should be breaking out the heat at this point. If he's truly putting the force into this as-claimed, I'd have my suspicions a previous wrencher probably used Loctite red or something else stupid, and heat is the only thing that's gonna break that free.

 

Fair enough but do so understanding that it is not a left hand thread.

 

There not, according to the FSM, regardless if it's the no. 1 or no. 2 idler pulley. The OP pulley with issues appears to be no. 2 pulley with the crankshaft timing pulley below it.

 

Just watched the 1A auto video on Youtube, he removes the serpentine idler bolt turning it clockwise, meaning it is reverse threaded in Part 1. In part 2 when it gets to the timing belt idler, they skip that part in the video!! Watched the Timmy the Toolman video and he removes his timing belt idler with normal threading. @dlowry81 is correct! Assuming I am seeing the same pulley in the image you posted. He was unable to break it loose with his electric impact. He was able to remove with a breaker bar.

 

In the FSM, it only mentions the serpentine belt idler as being reversed for removal.

 

from 2001 FSM....also, the only mention in FSM of left-hand thread concerned belt tensioner only

 

You need the thick socket that will prevent the socket walls from expanding. Similar to this one.

77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket 3 Times Momentum Power of Standard Impact Sockets Fits for Honda Engines

$19 77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket 3 Times Momentum Power of Standard Impact Sockets Fits for Honda Engines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JXYR5TB