Top of windshield rust

I had the windshield replaced and the guy treated some rust across the top before putting in the windshield and trim. He did not do anything to the rust that was also in the paint above the windshield trim. Is it OK to pull out the new trim so I don't mess it up while fixing the rust in the paint on the cab? And then put it back afterwards.

I can pry it up a little bit and get at it but it would be easier to pull and then re-use this trim piece.

I don't want to end up having to call a windshield company out to re-set things if I mess it up.

 

Who did the work? I thought part of the deal if you hire someone like Safelite is that they will address the rust when the windshield is out. Someone recently posted this.

 

A local shop. They cleaned up the area beneath the trim and around the window but didn't get into the paint on the top of the cab. It looks like this:

 

I know this is a few year old post, but i use this site frequently to figure out how to fix my 2000 tundra. I had the same problem and fixed it myself. The rust looked horrible (there were three rust bubble “fields” that had a inch diameter creeping back on the roof

1- windshield guy pulled windshield (It was cracked, from the same area of the rust, so i suspected water Got in and froze and cracked the screen. (The crack started on a freezing day after a warm thaw day. The crack started at the very top of the windshield and no rock “strike marks” were evident).

2- wire wheeled the rust (found 2 perforations)
3- coated with POR-15 and filled in performations with epoxy putty and skim coated the whole area. (I work with boats so epoxy is my thing versus polyester bondo, but either would work i suppose)

NOTE: I did the above step 3 in one shot making sure the POR did not fully cure (tacky). If POR dries fully, then you should sand before filler. I did not want to “scratch/sand the POR since i felt it would defeat the purpose of “sealing”

4- sanded with progressive grits down to 220

5 - applied base coat of paint (no primer, but good automotive lacquer with proper paint code and waited 36 hours.

6- then wet sanded with 800, let dry, then hit with 7-8 coats of auto lacquer. I masked off trim and laid a tarp about 2-3 foot back on the roof. This allowed me to “feather in” a loose edge that i could wet sand and compound out later. I had the feathered edge bo back about 2 foot or so. this would make any paint transition lines way out of sight for folks looking from the ground. (This last part was key for my own sanity, lol). Im not a body or paint guy.

7- wet sanded very very little with 2000 grit, the compounded with heavy cut wheel and compound. Switched. To medium with finesse-it compound. Hit with some wax and i really cant see that any work was done.

i was amazed that the outcome was possible and wanted to share with folks so they might address themselves. I would have been happy with a “so-so” job since i barely noticed the rust bubbles that were there prior.
Be well

a

 

It may be a zombie thread resurrection, but great 1st post, @Alisske

Better late to join than never. I also lurked on here for a good year or two (or three?) before jumping in the fray.

 

Yeah. The crack happened in The winter and i was waiting until the spring to change the windshield since winter throws alot of rocks in the NE

mine got bad enough, the drip would turn my headlights on without the switch (water dripped down onto the back of the fuse box)

 

Got pics of the rework? I'm curious. Right now I have black electrical tape over the rust to keep it from leaking inside. lol

 

That happened to the first Toyota I ever owned. It was ultimately the death of that plucky little Corolla. Years too early, but 155k of New England miles and winters plus a crappy windshield repair did her in.

 

You can see one of the big rust bubbles above the driver side.(there where 3)

trucks white and. Its bright out right now. But pics aren't hiding anything. Looks good. Key for me was moving the transition line back, feathering in, and putting on many coats so i had some paint thickness to work with. Just used rattle can duplicolor (u56 i think). Used the whole can.

 

I m probably just going to fix mine and leave black primer to seal it.

Great work though!

 

Not at all trying to tell you what to do, but screw it, rattle can some color on it. Will probably look awesome. The roof is not in anyones line of sight if it a close color match, even if dull no one will notice.

i would have been happy with a semi good repair. No ine noticed the rust bubbles on mine

 

Pretty sure primer oxidizes pretty quick, after which it'll hold water, and further rust.

But I'm not a body go, so don't quote me on that. Just what pops always told me about. He'd get pissed at guys who'd leave their cars primer grey for months on end.

 

No, it won't. I had a 72 olds delta 88 convertible that was 80% primer, 10% rust and 10% original gold color. Primer never rusted and the existing rust didn't spread.